New TV Old FW bed rail clearance solutions

[GoFishing]

I have a 2010 Silverado HD 3500 long bed and a 2003 fifth wheel that has had axles flipped (and is as high profile that I think is safe). I am still having issues with clearance (4inches). I have adjusted kingpin/hitch and am not comfortable with a nose up position. I have spent several days searching solutions for this. I would prefer not to lower the truck if possible.(but will as last resort) Not sure what size blocks are in back suspension but I have read newer trucks have higher bed rails vs higher suspension. My question is has anyone considered placing weights in the truck bed (I am thinking about a truck water caddy and also attempting to increase pin weight inside the FW to help level rig and achieve more clearance by increasing the "sag" in TV? Hope that makes sense. My hope is with the extra weight it will result in a nose down then I can adjust my hitch/king pin to level. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

[fiveeyes]

Perhaps looking at the other end of your dilemma will help. Instead of trying to lower the back end..raise the front end. There are 'leveling' kits for those that do not like a 'nose down' attitude. YMMV 5

[laknox]

GoFishing wrote:
I have a 2010 Silverado HD 3500 long bed and a 2003 fifth wheel that has had axles flipped (and is as high profile that I think is safe). I am still having issues with clearance (4inches). I have adjusted kingpin/hitch and am not comfortable with a nose up position. I have spent several days searching solutions for this. I would prefer not to lower the truck if possible.(but will as last resort) Not sure what size blocks are in back suspension but I have read newer trucks have higher bed rails vs higher suspension. My question is has anyone considered placing weights in the truck bed (I am thinking about a truck water caddy and also attempting to increase pin weight inside the FW to help level rig and achieve more clearance by increasing the "sag" in TV? Hope that makes sense. My hope is with the extra weight it will result in a nose down then I can adjust my hitch/king pin to level. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

Frankly, I don't think you can load the truck down enough to gain the 2-3" you really need for "proper" bed clearance. Towing 2-3" nose-high really isn't that big a deal. I do, and have no issues. You have two options if you want a level tow; lower the truck or raise the trailer. The easier solution may be to raise the trailer. You can add longer shackles or, if that's not enough, add a sub-frame between the shackles and frame. You have to look at the whole package, FW and TV, and find the best solution.

Lyle

[Paul_Clancy]

Gm trucks from that model year do have more rake. Especially the 3500. Not a "manly" issue but simply so the truck squats to level when fully loaded. The op 25 ft fifth would not be enough to make a 1 ton squat to near level so he may be onto something with adding payload.

[tegu69]

Actually, new fifth wheel (Evergreen) with 1800 lbs hw and loaded its about 2200lbs. I'm pulling it with 2012 Sierra 2500 reg bed 2wd. I'm thinking 2" drop shackles and also lowering the front end with the torsion bars.(lowering front to look manlier)

[Allworth]

I put inch and a half drop shackles in the rear of mine. The trailer rides level without alteration and the truck actually seems to ride more comfortably when empty.

All truck manufacturers have gone to setting the pickup suspensions with some "rake" (tail high), I guess to make them look Manlier??

[N-Trouble]

No blocks on the GM trucks at stock height. Drop shackles are not difficult to install. 4 bolts and a floor jack and your done.

[alfresco]

I had the same problem when I got my Silverado 2500. I had the local machine shop put 6 inch rectangular steel tubing between the frame of the trailer and the spring hangers. Solved the problem & cost $900. I also have a utility trailer, 5th wheel, and I purchased the tubing and did the job on it myself.

[GoFishing]

Well, I did a 500 pound test (basically the equivalent to the water caddy). I put totes next to tailgate of truck, filled with water, in the position the caddy would be and got an inch drop. Trying to be optimistic that with increasing the pin weight maybe I can squeeze out another 1/2 inch. After researching more I am finding my year Chevy probably does not have any blocks in suspension to remove and I am not so sure I want to mess with the springs. tegu69, when you say you went from a 1200 lb HW to 2200lb, did you get a new FW or the result of your modifications? What make TV do you have?

[msjdbman]

With being slightly nose high, you might want to weigh your 5er axles. My rig is a couple of inches nose high with less than 100 lb difference in front vs rear axle weights. I have 5.5 inches bedrail clearance.

[tegu69]

I posted similar thread in tow vehicle section. It seems to be the answer that comes up on these types of questions is to keep raising the trailer. I too have raised my trailer as far as I want to go. I went from a fw with 1200 lbs hitch weight to one with 2200 lbs. This changed the height about 2 inches. I doubt that 400 lbs would be enough for you, but you might try putting 400 lbs of people in the bed just to see where you would be. If the tank is going to be ahead of the hitch, I would think that that weight would be distributed to the front axle as well. If I can't get the lowering shackles to work, I am actually thinking about doing some customizing on the bed rails.

[Old-Biscuit]

IF you have the payload for the additional 400# then give it a try.
Added benefit is having the extra 60(+) gallons of fresh water.

You really need 6" or better of bedrail clearance.
Axles flipped then the next step is having spring mounts/shackles cut off, square tubing (2,3,4 inch) welded onto frame and then spring mounts/shackles welded back in place and having cross tubes welded side to side at mounts. Anything else would just be a bandaid.

[Moki]

Not that familiar with the Chevys, but I had the same problem when I had my 350. Found that the 350 used a 4" block and 250 used a 2" block. Went to the 2" block and 250 U-bolts and problem solved. Only negative would be less room for truck to settle under huge dirt or gravel loads. I put over 4,000 lbs in back and not even close to any problem. Might check out what's available in the Chevy brand. Inexpensive and not overly hard to do.

[GoFishing]

Thanks for the suggestions. I actually looked into the bed conversion but it is pretty expensive. Does anyone think the water caddy idea would work as a temporary fix?, (not sure how to make a link??

http://www.sandiegotank.com/index.php?option=com_fjrelated&view=fjrelated&layout=blog&id=0&Itemid=742

I know it is not the best option but we have not gone RVing for a year because I do not feel comfortable about the current condition of this rig.
Thanks again.

[Brodie3Az]

Another potential option is a flatbed conversion for the truck, possibly with removeable stake bed sides if you need the box feature.
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