Proper kingpin height for hitching

[Padlin]

Looking for any tricks for getting the upper coupler plate the right height for hitching up. Currently doing it by myself I eyeball it after dropping the tailgate, back in some then get out of the truck when I think I'm close and readjust. Not rocket science, but any way I can save getting out and rechecking would be appreciated.

[AZ_T_T]

shadows4 wrote:
I use the Level + by Hoppy. You adjust the smaller level to level before you unhitch. Then when you go to hitch back up just raise or lower the 5th wheel till the level reads level again. Super simple. Here is a pic of one.

I use something similar to this but I like this better!!

[rhagfo]

Wow!!!! :S

Four pages of correct height for pin box to Hitch, this thread likely has all the TT folks Rolling on the Floor laughing:B

I never knew hooking up my 5er was so difficult!!! It isn't Rocket Science and based on some replies several of you are flirting with High Hitching!

[lowfly]

Lakeside!!! great cheap idea. You are toooo clever. Thanks.

[robwhite61]

avvidclif1 wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
You don't need to have the pin level with the hitch to connect, in fact trying to do that can lead to "High Hitching"! You want the pin plate about 1"'lower than the hitch plate, even up to 2" works just fine! You really want the pin plate ride up the hitch plate a bit the will prevent high hitching.

Unless you have a Curt Hitch. Then it doesn't work.

I have a Curt and it works for me. When I am hooking up from camping I always set the trailer a little lower so it will ride up the hitch. When I am parking for storage I leave the trailer at the height I unhitched and simply back in.

[WeBeFulltimers]

fj12ryder wrote:
It would take me longer to try some of these suggestions than just getting out of the truck and walking back to see how far I need to lower/raise the trailer. 🙂 I back up until I'm within a couple of inches of the pin, get out and raise/lower to where I want it, then get back in and back into the hitch. No muss, no fuss.

Get off your lazy can and do it this way! :R

[Padlin]

thanks folks.

[TGPILOT]

I use the CHEAP old fashioned way to do it. I have my wife raise/lower the rig after I back up close to it then, after she has it at the right height I back under until she locks.....Works ever time without fail....LOL.

[Veebyes]

On flat ground my nose centers on a trailer marker light just above the leg switches when the pin is just the right height for the 5th wheel.

Right height is about when the pin plate touches the 5th wheel hitch plate about halfway up the slot.

Nothing beats familiarity with doing it many times. You learn your own ques.

[tntcrock]

Just get your wife to adjust when you back up to it; are I get out and adjust once I get close against pin.

[fj12ryder]

It would take me longer to try some of these suggestions than just getting out of the truck and walking back to see how far I need to lower/raise the trailer. 🙂 I back up until I'm within a couple of inches of the pin, get out and raise/lower to where I want it, then get back in and back into the hitch. No muss, no fuss.

[thirtydaZe]

I like that Level+Plus. I wish they made one that just had the upper portion.

[bpounds]

blacktop wrote:
What about putting a mark on your jacks when you finalize the right height so you know how high to go every time you hook up?

You could put a piece of tape on the leg. There's probably easier ways to go.

[laknox]

blacktop wrote:
What about putting a mark on your jacks when you finalize the right height so you know how high to go every time you hook up?

Won't work unless you park in the same, exact spot, each time you unhook. Sites can be out of level or have humps or hollows that affect where the landing legs extend to. Loading could also have an effect. You're very light one time or very heavy the next might affect where the legs end up.

Lyle

[Hiking_Hunter]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Hiking Hunter wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Got to ask why this will not work with a Curt hitch, when it is the recomeded method for all other 5th wheel hitch.

avvidclif1 is right...

The Curt Q20 is a different kind of hitch and is not hitched up like other hitches. Some people who have had other brands of hitches have trouble with this. I did too, until I realized the reason.
Most fifth wheel hitch plates “fall back” at an angle to provide a “ramp” for the trailer hitch plate to ride up on when hitching. This doesn’t work very well for the Curt hitch because of the way it is made. The Curt hitch has a solid steel shank that is affixed to the hitch plate that extends down into a thick, rigid, rubber mount. This mount provides damping and prevents most “chucking and bucking” prevalent in many hitches. When the hitch is not coupled, the "resting" or "static" position of the hitch plate is parallel to the ground instead of tilting back like most hitches. The plate does have a slight bevel at the trailing edge of the hitch plate. When you are hitching to the Curt hitch, I have found it is best to elevate the trailer pin so that the hitch plate is almost at the same height as the truck hitch plate – within ½”. Most other hitches are a little more forgiving on the height because they will elevate the trailer 1-3 inches with the “Ramp”.

Not according to the Curt Q20 Owners Manual pg. 3 & 4 'Coupling' Section

Pg. 3
. Adjust the front trailer lifting jacks so the trailer's kingpin skid plate is approximately 1/2" below the top surface of 5th wheel
skid plate. Hooking up in this manner helps ensure proper
engagement of the trailer kingpin to most 5th wheel systems.
Never lower the trailer's kingpin into the 5th wheel hitch head.

Pg. 4
.Back-up the towing vehicle while remaining centered and aligned to trailer's kingpin. The trailer's kingpin skid plate will compress the towing vehicle's suspension and ramp up onto the 5th wheel skid plate

Pretty much sounds like hitching is the same ...trailer king pin plate lower than 5th wheel hitch plate...back in/up onto hitch

Granted the 1" to 2" might be a bit too low for some hitches.....but king pin plate lower than 5th wheel hitch is a good method that will help eliminate some issues

Well, that's what I said - reread my last two sentences.

The difference with the Curt hitch is that the ramp on the trailing edge is very steep (for the reasons I stated before). That requires a closer VERTICAL coupling spacing between the plates. If you try to raise your fiver 2-3" with the CURT ramp you end up bowing the front legs back because it "pushes" the camper instead of raising it - not good. In addition, I've noticed that if I take (practically) all the hitching weight off the plate and I don't expect the ramp to raise the camper at all, it hitches very smoothly, easily and without putting backward "push" on the camper.

No matter what type of hitching method is used, it's always best to get out and check to look for high hitching. Also do a pull test.