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Slide works its way out while stored.

cor4743
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, The last few times when I picked up our 5th wheel from where we store it, the bottom of the bedroom slide was out by four inches, while the top was all the way in. This happens over a week or two period when the trailer is not in use. When I push the switch to retract the slide, it does not pull the bottom in, but if I extend it a bit, and then retract it, it works as it should.

Anyone have a similar experience, or have a suggestion on what could cause this?

The 5th wheel is a 32ft 2011 Montana Mountaineer with two slides.

Thanks
12 REPLIES 12

cor4743
Explorer
Explorer
Well, the trailer is back from the rv repair shop, and the slide is no longer drifting out. The fault was caused by the check valves in the pump. The option to repair was not possible, so a new pump was ordered and installed. The unfortunate part was that the pump was part of an assembly and could not be ordered by itself. I also had some other issues repaired, so now I am ready for spring (which may be early in my area as flowers are starting to poke up).
Thank you all for the suggestions and interest in this topic.

jaycocamprs
Explorer
Explorer
Our 2011 Montana Mountaineer did the same thing. It was the ram under the bed for the bedroom slide. Lippert Hydraulic Slide-out Look at page #7,about testing the rams.
2018 Silverado 3500 DRW
2011 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD

ChuckSteed
Explorer
Explorer
Your Tech is getting bad advise or doesnโ€™t know how to trouble shoot your system correctly... when the pump is not running there is zero pressure at the pump the slides are held closed by solenoid check valves with pressure within those lines..

There is a ver6 specific and detailed procedure regarding how he should be pressure checking your system... heโ€™s obviously not trained if he didnโ€™t already have a manifold pressure guard in the shop

If he has not done a leak down check on each hudraulic piston Iโ€™d on it... Iโ€™m more inclined to believe you have air in the system from a leaking hydraulic line or piston or a sticking solenoid check valve ...

Your guy sees $$$$$

packnrat
Explorer
Explorer
one other thing that can help... not solve a problem.

is spacer bars. i use a set of three all the time. they keep the slide locked in all the way so no stress on any of the gears or moving parts.

just remember to remove before opening the slide..


.
2006 F250 4X4 auto 6.0 short bed
2001 sunnybrook 24 ft
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laknox
Nomad
Nomad
cor4743 wrote:
Hi, it has been at the repair place for 2 weeks, and finally got word on the issue. No fault was found with the operation, so the tech called the factory to see if they had a suggestion. They said check the pressure at the pump, it should be 2200 psi. The tech ordered in a pressure checker that could measure the very high pressure, and it did show that it did lost pressure over night.
Now the bad news, the pump,tank and electricals only come as a complete assembly at about $1200 plus shipping markup, labor. The lead time is likely two weeks.
The tech has tried to source parts, but no luck.


Unless the rams have been inspected separately, you don't know if a ram seal isn't leaking, causing the pressure to drop on the pressure-side of the pump. You can drop near-$2k on the pump replacement bill and =still= have an issue if the rams are leaking internally. Also, it could be as simple as some cr@p in one of the solenoid valves not allowing it to close completely, thus leaking.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
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cor4743
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, it has been at the repair place for 2 weeks, and finally got word on the issue. No fault was found with the operation, so the tech called the factory to see if they had a suggestion. They said check the pressure at the pump, it should be 2200 psi. The tech ordered in a pressure checker that could measure the very high pressure, and it did show that it did lost pressure over night.
Now the bad news, the pump,tank and electricals only come as a complete assembly at about $1200 plus shipping markup, labor. The lead time is likely two weeks.
The tech has tried to source parts, but no luck.

thomas201
Explorer
Explorer
If hydraulic, you might try, run it out and hold the button down for a 5 count. Run it in hold a 5 count, repeat once more. This fully fills all spaces with the hydraulic fluid, whether oil or glycol. A cheap fix, with a low chance of causing damage. If it does not work, you still have your appointment with the pros.

cor4743
Explorer
Explorer
Okay, will do. I have an appointment for mid November, so will report after the fix.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you don't mind, when you get it diagnosed and/or repaired, could you return and post what the problem was and how it was fixed. It helps when you can find out if the diagnosis is correct and also the repair. TIA.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

cor4743
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for your replies, I will take it in for repair. This forum is a great resource.

Itching2go
Explorer II
Explorer II
Agree with Old-Biscuit. We had the same problem with one of our electric slides. Turned out to be a bad brake clutch on the slide motor. So, if the slide in question is electric, I'd bet you have the same problem. The fix was a new motor/brake assembly. Don't recall the cost, but I believe it was something in the $350 - $500 range, installed.
2008 Jayco Designer 35RLSA pulled by a 2007 Chevy 3500 D/A SRW

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Electric operated slide.....motor clutch/brake slipping

Hydraulic operated slide.....ram/piston solenoid valve leaking by
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31