โAug-04-2013 12:53 PM
โAug-06-2013 03:34 AM
โAug-05-2013 08:19 PM
โAug-05-2013 07:34 PM
caberto wrote:FastEagle wrote:
The GAWR for your front and rear axles have been set by the vehicle manufacturer. Their values are depicted on the vehicle's certification label. You cannot change them by changing tires.
FastEagle
Yes, set by the manufacturer for the tires that shipped with the vehicle. Ever notice how the RAWR is curiously matched to the same load rating as the tires the pickup comes with? Hmm....
This is nothing new, there will always be people who argue one way or the other. I've offered another way for the OP to look at his weights, which is still legal and safe. It's his choice to do as he sees fit, one way is not better than the other.
Cheers ๐
โAug-05-2013 04:01 PM
Me Again wrote:SLE wrote:
FYI, my truck has an 8,800lb GVWR on the door yet the local DMV has it registered for 11,200lbs and they did this with out me saying a word or requesting it.
My state Washington takes 1.5 times the tare weight of the pickup and arounds up to the next higher even thousand. So this state licensed and taxes my 2500 with GVWR sticker of 8800 at 12,000. No where in the state code does it say anything about a factory GVWR being a limit on a private vehicle. If I was hauling commercial with it and required to stop at weigh stations then I would get an over weight ticket for 12001 lbs. Also the truck would have to display a signage of "Gross Weight 12,000". The ticket would be for no paying enough tonage. I could ask them to license is at 14000 pounds and they would do that, charging me more.
Like I say, this site and other RV sites just do not understand weight laws. The federal bridge weight laws are based on weight per axle, number of tires on the axle, spacing of the axle etc. No pickup is going to be over those, as they are for much larger trucks. States enforce these bridge weight laws and Canada is in sync with them.
Chris
โAug-05-2013 02:53 PM
FastEagle wrote:
The GAWR for your front and rear axles have been set by the vehicle manufacturer. Their values are depicted on the vehicle's certification label. You cannot change them by changing tires.
FastEagle
โAug-05-2013 02:24 PM
โAug-05-2013 02:23 PM
โAug-05-2013 02:17 PM
caberto wrote:
Your truck can "pull" that 5er just fine. It's the pin weight that will be the biggest factor, but even with factory tires, you'll see that you are either fine (comfortably under your RAWR), or can be fine by replacing the factory tires.
The RAWR of your truck I think you said is 6100 as indicated (with the standard factory tires); that rating is limited by your rear tires' load capacity. Weigh your truck as you would have it loaded for towing, get your actual rear axle weight and subtract that from your RAWR of 6100 lbs. That's what you have left over for pin weight with the standard factory tires.
If you replace the factory tires with larger/load range E tires, you will effectively increase that 6100 RAWR by the combined load range on the bigger tires at max PSI. Will you be over the truck's GVWR? Probably, but probably not by much, the main number you are concerned with is the RAWR (some will argue this point, this is the big debate, so the final decision is up to you). Stay within that RAWR and you will be fine. As others have said, the only difference between 3/4 and 1 ton trucks is almost always an added leaf spring and overload block (and that's what give the single wheel 1 ton the higher GVWR), but a set of air bags will remedy that inequality if your truck happens to sag a little due to the missing leaf spring.
โAug-05-2013 01:20 PM
PA12DRVR wrote:
The below is a darn good question:
"Just which University granted your Mechanical Engineering degree and in what states do you carry P.E. registration?
This is important since you seem to know more about axle design than the Engineers working for the manufacturers."
To the OP: the question for you to decide is whether you want to stay within the ratings provided by the manufacturers or whether you want to go with the opinions of a bunch of self-assured internet experts.
Those same experts will critique the GVWR and GCVWR provided by the manufacturer ("its no different than the 350" "Legally, it doesn't matter" "Axle ratings are all that matter"), but the only party that assembled and evaluated the entire truck is the manufacturer.
Again, your call if you want to remain within the manufacturer's ratings or if you want to ignore them. When I towed my 5th wheel, I felt it as an acceptable risk to be 500#'s over the GVWR (on a 13,000 # GVWR) since I was about 3,000#s under the GCVWR and since that 500# overage only came if I had full water tanks plus everything else as loaded for a month-long trip.
โAug-05-2013 01:18 PM
โAug-05-2013 01:05 PM
โAug-05-2013 12:37 PM
โAug-05-2013 10:35 AM
โAug-05-2013 07:13 AM
txbassmn wrote:
According to what I have been told, I will be over the GVWR but not over on the GAWR on the truck. The GVWR is 10,000, the GCVWR is 23,500, and FGAWR is 5200, and the RGAWR is 6100. This is where I am confused. I will be over on the GVWR even if I have a 1300 pin weight. I'm not over the axle weight but am on the truck weight.
โAug-05-2013 05:34 AM
SLE wrote:
FYI, my truck has an 8,800lb GVWR on the door yet the local DMV has it registered for 11,200lbs and they did this with out me saying a word or requesting it.