Trailer Lift Blocks

[B-rad_Lee]

Hi I have a 2016 Fuzion 325 that is sitting a little nose high. I would like to add load leveling air bag on my 2011 Ford F350 which would push the the nose of the trailer higher so I am look at adding 2.5 lift blocks and want to see anyone has installed lift blocks on their toy hauler. I have 7.5" of clearance between the trailer and the bed rails. I could drop my hitch down by 1" but I would like keep the 7.5" of clearance. FYI... Fuzion's comes from the factory with the axes flipped.

[lincster]

tinner12002 wrote:

Strabo wrote:

lincster wrote:
I had Weekend Warrior do essentially that at the factory, but I didn't add blocks, I had an entire section of 2" channel added the entire length of where the axle hangers are welded onto.

Same here

I hope it was tube and not channel. Using blocks is probably the easiest to do after the fact if done right!

Yes, sorry, tube was used.

[tinner12002]

Strabo wrote:

lincster wrote:
I had Weekend Warrior do essentially that at the factory, but I didn't add blocks, I had an entire section of 2" channel added the entire length of where the axle hangers are welded onto.

Same here

I hope it was tube and not channel. Using blocks is probably the easiest to do after the fact if done right!

[Strabo]

lincster wrote:
I had Weekend Warrior do essentially that at the factory, but I didn't add blocks, I had an entire section of 2" channel added the entire length of where the axle hangers are welded onto.

Same here

[tinner12002]

I also DO NOT recommend buying anything other than the blocks from trailer blocks. Their top plates/tie plates are too light for the torque required, they bend causing the u-bolts to bend also. Get the plates from same place you get u-bolts. If you need that info PM me as I have a site saved where you can get custom u-bolts from and they are not as expensive as the ones you get from trailer blocks.

[tinner12002]

I have 2" blocks on both my toy haulers with no issues. I would recommend using bigger u-bolts when you install them. If you have 1/2" bolts now upgrade to 9/16" or to the next diameter if they are bigger. Not very expensive plus you can get a new tie plate to fit the bigger size/diameter bolts.

[lincster]

JIMNLIN wrote:
Lift blocks are never a good idea for a trailers leaf spring suspension on a multi axle trailer, vs a truck, for several reasons.
Notice axle makers nor the trailer makers offer them as OEM or a option on a leaf spring suspension.

The safest way is as Lincster says using a sub frame from steel structural tubing welded to the trailers main frame rails with heavy side plates with adjustable holes. Tubing size to be determined by how much the trailer needs to be raised.

I see one member went with 2" blocks on 5.2k axles with 5/8" diameter U bolts/heavier top plates and heavy custom made spring keepers.

Exactly why I did it the way I did.

Funny thing is, starting with the next model year trailers, Warrior started added that same component on all 5th wheels to clear 16" tires..... I wonder if I started a trend. LOL

[JIMNLIN]

Lift blocks are never a good idea for a trailers leaf spring suspension on a multi axle trailer, vs a truck, for several reasons.
Notice axle makers nor the trailer makers offer them as OEM or a option on a leaf spring suspension.

The safest way is as Lincster says using a sub frame from steel structural tubing welded to the trailers main frame rails with heavy side plates with adjustable holes. Tubing size to be determined by how much the trailer needs to be raised.

I see one member went with 2" blocks on 5.2k axles with 5/8" diameter U bolts/heavier top plates and heavy custom made spring keepers.

[TucsonJim]

B-rad Lee wrote:

TucsonJim wrote:
Not a toy hauler, but I added blocks to my FW. I needed a little more clearance between the top of the oversized tires I put on and the fender well. In addition, I put 1/2" taller blocks on the kitchen side (heavier) to level the rig up.

I purchased them from:
Trailer Blocks

Jim

Thanks for the picture that's the same place I'm looking at getting the blocks from... Did they include the U bolts or did you have to buy them separately?

If you purchase the kit, it includes new heavier duty tie plates, U-bolts, lift blocks and nuts. Since the new U-bolts were a larger diameter than my existing ones, I needed new tie plates to put it all together. The kit includes full directions along with torque values. Make sure you torque these down correctly so you get the proper stretch and fastening. You should never reuse U-bolts because they are a one time use item. They appear to be very high quality materials, and I'm happy with my purchase. I purchased a 1" kit for the curb side, and a 1-1/2" kit for the street side. Please note that the U-bolts are all one length, and I had to trim mine down to keep from hitting on the frame. Once they were properly installed, I used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to shorten the excess.


Jim

[B-rad_Lee]

TucsonJim wrote:
Not a toy hauler, but I added blocks to my FW. I needed a little more clearance between the top of the oversized tires I put on and the fender well. In addition, I put 1/2" taller blocks on the kitchen side (heavier) to level the rig up.

Here's a pick.



I purchased them from:
Trailer Blocks

Jim

Thanks for the picture that's the same place I'm looking at getting the blocks from... Did they include the U bolts or did you have to buy them separately?

[TucsonJim]

Not a toy hauler, but I added blocks to my FW. I needed a little more clearance between the top of the oversized tires I put on and the fender well. In addition, I put 1/2" taller blocks on the kitchen side (heavier) to level the rig up.

Here's a pick.



I purchased them from:
Trailer Blocks

Jim

[lincster]

I had Weekend Warrior do essentially that at the factory, but I didn't add blocks, I had an entire section of 2" channel added the entire length of where the axle hangers are welded onto.