โJun-05-2013 08:53 AM
โSep-26-2013 04:42 PM
LostinAZ wrote:Jim and Barb wrote:
RGordon is absoulty right! I have been an Industrial Maintenance Supervisor for 10 + years. All it is 220 single phase its only two 110 legs with a ground wire where it ties on a buss bar in the box that is also a tie point for your nuteral on a 110 v circut. The AMP rating is how much draw it it can handel while working 30 AMP is normal for a house.
What isn't being mentioned when we discuss two 110 V legs is they have to be out of phase to create 220V service. My understanding is that the 50 Amp service we hook into at RV Resort/Park pedestals, the two 110V 50 amp legs are not out of phase and therefore 220V is never present inside the RV.
โSep-26-2013 01:50 PM
โSep-26-2013 09:44 AM
john&bet wrote:sdetweil wrote:Bonding refers to the ground(green/bare and neutral/white) being tied together in the panel such as a jumper from the neutral bar to the panel metal or a wire from the neutral bar to the green bar. Metal conduit does not do this, it will only act as a equipment ground(green/bare) and no ties to the neutral. In your sub panels the green/bares and neutral/whites need to be on separate bars. Hope this helps.
while not on topic, this incident has made me take a close look at both my subpanels, and both are a mess. ground and neutrals mixed, one enclosure not even grounded.. fun things to fix!
only thing I don't understand, sub panel using plastic conduit,
master has ground/neutral bonded. sub not bonded.
if the conduit had been metal, the sub panel would have inherited the bonding.
what can/am I supposed to do about this?
bond at the sub (no/no)
leave unbonded (maybe?)
โSep-26-2013 08:54 AM
sdetweil wrote:Bonding refers to the ground(green/bare and neutral/white) being tied together in the panel such as a jumper from the neutral bar to the panel metal or a wire from the neutral bar to the green bar. Metal conduit does not do this, it will only act as a equipment ground(green/bare) and no ties to the neutral. In your sub panels the green/bares and neutral/whites need to be on separate bars. Hope this helps.
while not on topic, this incident has made me take a close look at both my subpanels, and both are a mess. ground and neutrals mixed, one enclosure not even grounded.. fun things to fix!
only thing I don't understand, sub panel using plastic conduit,
master has ground/neutral bonded. sub not bonded.
if the conduit had been metal, the sub panel would have inherited the bonding.
what can/am I supposed to do about this?
bond at the sub (no/no)
leave unbonded (maybe?)
โSep-26-2013 07:12 AM
โSep-25-2013 06:07 PM
โSep-25-2013 05:58 PM
sdetweil wrote:
Ok, I'm the guy that found out. RV 50 amp into 60 amp Welder service with no neutral..
big Pop when the A/C tried to come on. wish it was a circuit breaker.. no such luck.
something smells near the converter/breaker panel. not wire smell, electronics smell. maybe blown converter.
obviously the smaller ground couldn't take the load. maybe it will be a blown ground wire. (probably wishful thinking).
far as I can tell everything works (on 110 adapter to 50amp plug) except the fridge electric circuit. lights, fantastic fans, 110 outlets. haven't tried slides or leveler yet.
I will disconnect all power today and pull the breaker panel out to look at the wires behind.
diagnosis advice welcomed. will also run a separate 6/3 circuit.
โSep-25-2013 05:01 PM
smkettner wrote:
Only the main utility service meter panel and distribution should have a neutral ground bond.
Neutral and ground need to be kept separated in all subpanels including all RV panels.
โSep-25-2013 02:39 PM
โSep-25-2013 02:27 PM
โSep-25-2013 12:20 PM
Atom Ant wrote:sdetweil wrote:It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.john&bet wrote:jeepman71 wrote:DON'T DON'T do it unless it has 4 poles or hole in the outlet. YOU MUST have a NEUTRAL period.
I am currious, if my rv were a 50amp system and I plug into a 220V welder or dryer outlet what will I find? What different circuits or equipment would likely be damaged?
Let's assume that this rv is a very late model like a 2012.
I don't have to worry because mine is only a 30amp.
right. this is 50 amp 110v service.. requires a neutral..
NOT 50 amp 220 service.
What you are saying is incorrect, as when limiting in term to only 110VAC, it actually produced 100A.
โSep-25-2013 11:34 AM
smkettner wrote:sdetweil wrote:
I have run a proper 6/3 with ground 50amp, 110v service line now, but given the problems, I am waiting for a circuit tester/surge suppressor to arrive to validate the circuit. (this tester will go with me from now on as I hear a lot about power pedestal issues).
If you attached to the proper double breaker there will be 240v between the hot leads. Your RV does not use the 240v but it must be wired this way to avoid overcurrent in the neutral.
โSep-25-2013 11:23 AM
Atom Ant wrote:
It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.
What you are saying is incorrect, as when limiting in term to only 110VAC, it actually produced 100A.
โSep-25-2013 10:49 AM
sdetweil wrote:It IS 50A 220VAC service, just because the RV only happens to use 110V equipment, doesn't mean its not 50A 220VAC.john&bet wrote:jeepman71 wrote:DON'T DON'T do it unless it has 4 poles or hole in the outlet. YOU MUST have a NEUTRAL period.
I am currious, if my rv were a 50amp system and I plug into a 220V welder or dryer outlet what will I find? What different circuits or equipment would likely be damaged?
Let's assume that this rv is a very late model like a 2012.
I don't have to worry because mine is only a 30amp.
right. this is 50 amp 110v service.. requires a neutral..
NOT 50 amp 220 service.
โSep-25-2013 09:18 AM
sdetweil wrote:
I have run a proper 6/3 with ground 50amp, 110v service line now, but given the problems, I am waiting for a circuit tester/surge suppressor to arrive to validate the circuit. (this tester will go with me from now on as I hear a lot about power pedestal issues).