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WW Repairs

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
As just about all of us have read here, certain models of WW trailers have defects that have resulted in a number of different problems. To one degree or another, this subject has come up on this forum and most of the posts have eventually been locked and/or deleted. The forum administration has decided to make a one-time exception and allow this thread in order to help our forum members get informed and hopefully get their trailers repaired.

IMPORTANT GROUND RULES:
  • This thread is a one-off exception to the following forum rule:
    Posts are not allowed in which a local or state consumer action board and/or legal counsel is/have been involved. This includes posts related to future, ongoing or past lawsuits.
    This exception applies to this one thread only. This rule will continue to be enforced in other threads. So keep the WW class action discussion in this thread, or your posts will be deleted.

  • The following rule will still be enforced:
    You may post about problems you have with a product or organization, however the use of the forums to repeatedly attack them is strictly forbidden.
    In other words, no bashing allowed. This thread is for disseminating information, not venting your spleen. Flaming, trolling, bashing, etc. will not be permitted.

  • Only general discussion of these problems and repairs are allowed. Specific questions about individual circumstances are not allowed ("my XYZ is bent, does this situation apply to me?").

  • We all have brains. Please use them. Verify what you read here. I am wrong all the time. Please don't rely on me for any decisions you may choose to make. If you make a bad call, don't blame me, please.

  • For the sake of full disclosure, I own a 2005 FS2600 and am having trouble with my trailer. I consider myself fairly objective, but that doesn't mean I don't ever have biases. In some recent cases where I could not be objective, I defered to Y-Guy and Admin to take the wheel. In this thread I will tell you what I've done and what my experiences have been.
Now, with that out of the way...

As most of you know, there has been a class action suit and Weekend Warrior is settling with the class. Here's a link to the Settlement Agreement: http://www.trailersettlement.com/sa.pdf. I won't go into the details of the settlement, because I don't want to be in the position of interpreting it or giving any legal clarification or advice. So if you're having trouble with your trailer, this is one possible avenue. Contact (866)459-6003 or visit www.trailersettlement.com for information about the class action settlement. They can tell you whether you qualify and where to go from there.

That's one option.

Without going into too many details, I discovered some problems with my trailer. After seeing pictures of some that were worse than mine, I decided I'd better do something before it got worse. However, I'm not a fan of class action suits. I've received too many checks for $10 in the mail to cover one class action or another. I didn't want to take the chance of having my trailer only partially fixed or having to personally pay a bunch of money for only half a fix. So I contacted Weekend Warrior directly and told them about my problems. Couldn't hurt, right?

Know what they said? "Let's make an appointment for you to bring it in and we'll fix it." :E

So yesterday I took my trailer down to beautiful Perris and dropped it off. I asked about the cost, and my service writer said they'd FIX IT. I watched him write up his sheet and he only filled in prices for the extra items I requested (fair 'nuf). Being the selfish guy I am, I took this bit of good news and high tailed it out of there counting myself a very lucky man. Sure, it would have been better if it hadn't broken in the first place. But the past can't be changed. I just want mine fixed.

After feeling fairly secure that I had MINE taken care of, I wanted to find out if I had just personally hit the jackpot or if this was the WW policy in these cases. So I contacted someone higher up at WW to find out if other people in this same situation could expect the same treatment. Here's what I was told:
Any customer who currently has an issue, we are standing behind [them]. If they have an issue that has not been resolved, we are directing them to contact us here, locally, or the dealership in their area.

We are standing behind our product. By that, I mean we are fixing anything that needs to be fixed as long as there are no apparent signs of abuse. If the consumer is, however, looking for any type of monetary compensation then we cannot directly assist them. They would then need to contact the (866)459-6003 number or visit www.trailersettlement.com.


There's your other option.

If you choose to contact Weekend Warrior directly for repairs, call (909)579-0353. The operator in Upland routes the calls to the appropriate repair facility in Perris (Superlite or Normal).

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch โ€ข 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") โ€ข <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230
585 REPLIES 585

jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
Ok done with all rotten framework repair,installed new osb roofing deck,reattached siding, and window on one side. In order to post pics you have to use some sort of hosting site. Too complicated for me. When romoving all of the old caulk and putty from tpo roof I noticed something in the front were the nosecap attaches. Some of the old putty still has the tape on it. I see this being a part of cause of leaking as well. Before I re-attach nose cap I have another question. At the top of nosecap there was a backing like cardboard in the curved section. Could a piece of thin paneling be used there instead? Armdrag it looks like you used something like that on yours. Once again thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
jpogue wrote:
Very nice,Man you put on a whole new membrane.


Only half. up to the transition from 1/2 deck to 1/4 luan. I will replace the TPO later with EPDM and rebuild the back with angle iron sistered to the 1-1/2 rafters

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
Y-Guy wrote:
Nice work! What roofing material did you go with? Sticking with the black or is there another coat?

I used black EPDM. I plan to recoat with white liquid roof...later. I am two months into our camping season and my wife is getting ansty

jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
Very nice,Man you put on a whole new membrane.

Y-Guy
Moderator
Moderator
Nice work! What roofing material did you go with? Sticking with the black or is there another coat?

Two Wire Fox Terriers; Sarge & Sully

2007 Winnebago Sightseer 35J

2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

anarion55
Explorer
Explorer
Wow. Looks like you did a phenomenal job! Can I hire you to do ours if we have a need? LOL.
Susan & Tony
(3 kids/3 dogs)
'06 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CC/Shortbed; 6.6 Duramax/Allison, Reese DualCam, Prodigy
'07 WW FSC2800 Billet
Yamaha V-Star 650, TTR125-L, Suzuki Z250, Eiger 4X4m Kawasaki Ninja 250 (hers)
Kawasaki ZX-9r, KFX400, KX250 2-stroke (his)

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
Glue




Mesh over seams



New Roof No Sag


jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the response. Nothing would surprise me about how they put these things together. Well I can tell you that whatever it is was very pliable and stretchy when I peeled the side back and the front section,but now it is hard. I had one person tell me to use a urethane adhesive. Spent most of today wire brushing rotten wood and getting alot of the wood particles off of the TPO. I ordered a bunch of 3m 4000uv caulking today,man that stuff is not cheap. It was $22 per tube at west marine,I managed to find online for 12.99 and no sales tax.

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
jpogue wrote:
I have the gel coat sides on my trailer. Does anybody have any idea what kind of caulk is holding the sides on? It's really stretchy and basically a bead is ran down each stud and the gel coat is pressed od and stapled at the top. Just trying to find out what the stuff is.


Take a look at this stuffProflex

allcool
Explorer
Explorer
well, not sure on yours, I was told at the factory on all the newer ones they used special industrial strength double sided 3m tape. I couldn't believe they use tape. The old WW manager that told me, said it works great, and they never had problems with it coming off.
IDK, you asked...
2007 WW FSW3200
RZRS k&t Turbo
2 LT500
1 Lt500 hybrid
F350 CC 6.7PS Platinum

jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
I have the gel coat sides on my trailer. Does anybody have any idea what kind of caulk is holding the sides on? It's really stretchy and basically a bead is ran down each stud and the gel coat is pressed od and stapled at the top. Just trying to find out what the stuff is.

jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks so much for your advice,I appreciate it. got most of the old putty of everything yesterday. Got a few things to do today and going to check out a product called restore it, that my roofer buddy found at the roofing store. Should be able to start buttoning everything up sun-wed.

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
jpogue wrote:
How did you make the curved support pieces for the front nose cap? one of my corner pieces was completely mush I'm trying to get the other one out without damaging the paneling for the cieling. But I don't think its coming out in one piece.


I was able to get mine out barley in one peice and used it as a template. if you cant get it out, use a peice cardboard and scribe the pattern in place. Do the inside curve first and so that you have the best fit possible and then once you have a good inside curve the outside curve is easy. I used 2x12 and a peice of 3/4 plywood attached for the end studs. I used 2 - 3/4 plywood peices screwd together to create an 1-1/2 thick peice for the inside studs. I cut them with a sabre saw / jig saw.

armdrag
Explorer
Explorer
jpogue wrote:
Are you going to remove all of the little OSB particles from the TPO before gluing it back down? I tried using a stiff bristle brush (not wire) and it got alot of it off but not all of it. I noticed you painted the framework in the front,was that Kilz you used there? Spent most of today scraping off ol putty and treating some of the minor stuff with copper green. Another friend of mine recommended a product called restore-it. I'm thinking about using that along the sides and in the corners where the water got into the framework.


You are right on target. Clean the TPO the best you can. Yes Kilz on the wood where I am concerned water can lay or concentrated if a leak happens again. Any treatment is goig to better than what you had.

jpogue
Explorer
Explorer
How did you make the curved support pieces for the front nose cap? one of my corner pieces was completely mush I'm trying to get the other one out without damaging the paneling for the cieling. But I don't think its coming out in one piece.