โOct-13-2014 05:32 AM
โNov-19-2014 04:32 PM
Fleetwood Couple wrote:harold1946 wrote:noplace2 wrote:
Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm
If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.
The DIY kit is less than $600. Anyone with the ability to read and follow instructions can install it.
Why not heat the whole coach evenly and not have to fool around with space heaters?
In my case the holding tanks are also heated through the ductwork, so no worries about freezing.
If there is a power loss at the pedestal it will automaticaly revert to LP.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, its up to the user as to what one wants to do.
My system has a front and a rear heat, would this still work for both or only one. We are having trouble keeping our RV warm here in WA without using up the propane, going trough 40 LBS in 5 or 6 days and that is with 2 space heaters only have 30 amps where were at so I cant use a 3rd.
โNov-19-2014 06:48 AM
โNov-19-2014 05:56 AM
Clay L wrote:
According to an email to me from engineering at Suburban Manufacturing, the efficiency of RV furnaces ranges from 70 to 80 percent. Water heaters are 70 percent on gas. Electric heaters are real close to 100%
โNov-19-2014 05:40 AM
โNov-18-2014 09:36 PM
harold1946 wrote:noplace2 wrote:
Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm
If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.
The DIY kit is less than $600. Anyone with the ability to read and follow instructions can install it.
Why not heat the whole coach evenly and not have to fool around with space heaters?
In my case the holding tanks are also heated through the ductwork, so no worries about freezing.
If there is a power loss at the pedestal it will automaticaly revert to LP.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, its up to the user as to what one wants to do.
โNov-16-2014 11:56 AM
โNov-15-2014 03:52 PM
harold1946 wrote:
I know your stance, you have stated it in several other threads you have interupted
โNov-15-2014 02:17 PM
pianotuna wrote:[COLOR=]So did I. Use your psysic powers to figure out where I am.
Hi harold,
You know very well my stance on the "cheap heat (NOT)" system. Too bad you choose to NOT share your extensive factual knowledge and real life experience of the system with others. I share it with thiose that need the information.
I have done more than one "back yard" experiment to show how many watts are needed to heat a class C. Where are your results? I do not doo back yard experiments, I do real life traveling all over north and central America.
My needs are pretty much identical with anyone who uses their RV in extreme cold. You do not do that, and it is great that you don't have to, because the system might just fall short of the needs. You must also be psysic. How is it that you know where I may or may not be?
For example last night at 1 a.m. the campground power went off. First my inverter picked up the load, then after that the furnace cut in.
It was -23 C (-9.4 f) outside. That would be enough to freeze up the entire rv quite quickly, if I had no "fail over" in place. Because I do, I slept right through the night.
โNov-15-2014 12:57 PM
โNov-15-2014 10:58 AM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi harold,
No, thanks. The cheap heat system (which is ANYTHING but cheap, even if you DIY) does not come close to being suited to my needs. If you wish to correct my statements feel free. But when I last looked during previous discussions my statements were accurate.harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.
โNov-15-2014 10:10 AM
โNov-15-2014 09:15 AM
harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.
โNov-15-2014 05:59 AM
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Phil,
You can not run cheap heat system and the furnace at the same time. It is either/or not both at once.
As it comes from the maker, it will not switch over to the propane furnace if the power goes off. They do not offer an add on kit to make this possible. One has to design a circuit and add a relay to do so.
They do have a model that is wired to work with 30 amp RV's. But it can not be used at all if the shore power is only 15 amps.
As Harold points out the 30 amp version can be wired to use a 50 amp pedestal. However they don't offer a kit to do so.
The 30 amp version will not meet the heating needs of the climate where I live. It is a bit better than a heat strip, because it offers more wattage and the heat does come from the regular heat vents.
In "the only game in town" rv park I am in, they would charge me extra for a 50 amp and a 30 amp connection to their pedestals. In fact they even charge extra if you plug into 30 amp and 20 amp at the same time. Fortunately I have a 50 amp "break out box" that allows me to use both legs of the 50 amp service on my modified RV.
In short, a 30 amp rv may be better off with a space heater, and it is certainly cheaper to do so than to modify the furnace by adding the "cheap heat" system.
โNov-15-2014 05:18 AM
โNov-13-2014 12:17 PM