How you heatin?

[Lurker52]

Maybe a bit early for some but winter is coming and I always wonder how full timers heat there rigs. The past few years I have been work camping /volunteering and have had electricity provided. This year family matters have landed us in the Ocala Fl. area.

We are in a park that we pay for our own electric so the space heaters may cost a lot to run. I am thinking I will just have to use the furnace. I don't like the noise and I hope the propane cost is not to bad.

This area can get pretty cold at times but it usually don't last to long.

So, how do you keep cozy on those cold winter nights?

[harold1946]

Fleetwood Couple wrote:

harold1946 wrote:

noplace2 wrote:
Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm

If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.

The DIY kit is less than $600. Anyone with the ability to read and follow instructions can install it.
Why not heat the whole coach evenly and not have to fool around with space heaters?
In my case the holding tanks are also heated through the ductwork, so no worries about freezing.
If there is a power loss at the pedestal it will automaticaly revert to LP.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, its up to the user as to what one wants to do.

My system has a front and a rear heat, would this still work for both or only one. We are having trouble keeping our RV warm here in WA without using up the propane, going trough 40 LBS in 5 or 6 days and that is with 2 space heaters only have 30 amps where were at so I cant use a 3rd.

Are those heat pumps? If so they are not compatible with the rv comfort system.
If there is a 15 or 20 amp outlet on the pedestal I suggest an extension cord and space heater.

[Pop-Pop_C]

We are fortunate, elec is included in the monthly fee.
Have the fireplace,(would not be with out one) , and two
750/1500 watt oscaliting heaters. Usually run on the low side.
They do well Dow to the middle 20's .the gas will kick on in the night form time to time.
The elec. Heaters were about $30.00 each at Home Depot.

[Jfet]

Clay L wrote:

According to an email to me from engineering at Suburban Manufacturing, the efficiency of RV furnaces ranges from 70 to 80 percent. Water heaters are 70 percent on gas. Electric heaters are real close to 100%

Curious how an electric heater could be anything less than 100%. Any electricity not used by the heating element is dissipated as heat by the controls, power cord, heck, even the display! When you are trying to heat, waste heat is just as good as direct conversion heat.

[pianotuna]

Hi Fleetwood,

Since there is only 30 amps of power at the pedestal it might be worse to do that because the smallest system CH makes draws more than 15 amps.

I'd recommend looking into having insulbright covers made for the windows, vents and skylights. I am assuming you are using vent cushions already to insulate.

If there is a 15 amp outlet on the pedestal, look into adding an auxiliary shore power cord. That would allow running a third electric heater.

Where I live sometimes 6000 watts of heat are needed.

I prefer to use small wattage heaters tucked away in unused spaces in the RV. I find oil filled are quiet and because they have a bit of thermal mass, I can load balance if need be, and the heater will "coast" for a few minutes.

Earlier in the thread I documented what I'm using for space heating, and freeze protection.

Consider adding an extend-a-stay fitting and renting a 100 or 200 pound tank from a propane supplier.

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

harold1946 wrote:

noplace2 wrote:
Cheap Heat. Hmm. $1200 to $1500 installed add-on and one still has to rely on shore power. Hmm

If we have shore power, we can accomplish the same goal with about $50 worth of ceramic heaters that we can place where they are needed and use less energy. Even though power seems "free" when included in a CG fee, we ALL end up paying for it one way or the other.

The DIY kit is less than $600. Anyone with the ability to read and follow instructions can install it.
Why not heat the whole coach evenly and not have to fool around with space heaters?
In my case the holding tanks are also heated through the ductwork, so no worries about freezing.
If there is a power loss at the pedestal it will automaticaly revert to LP.
There are advantages and disadvantages to everything, its up to the user as to what one wants to do.

My system has a front and a rear heat, would this still work for both or only one. We are having trouble keeping our RV warm here in WA without using up the propane, going trough 40 LBS in 5 or 6 days and that is with 2 space heaters only have 30 amps where were at so I cant use a 3rd.

[DianneOK]

Moderator note....Now, boys, enough arguing. Take it private,if you must.

[pianotuna]

Hi harold,

Since I posted on page 2 with a perfectly adequate solution which works in real life testing down to -36 c (-33 F), I'd have to say you are the one who has interrupted.

Pay back on a stand alone heater, where I live, is about one week, not three years.

harold1946 wrote:
I know your stance, you have stated it in several other threads you have interupted

[harold1946]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi harold,

You know very well my stance on the "cheap heat (NOT)" system. Too bad you choose to NOT share your extensive factual knowledge and real life experience of the system with others. I share it with thiose that need the information.

I have done more than one "back yard" experiment to show how many watts are needed to heat a class C. Where are your results? I do not doo back yard experiments, I do real life traveling all over north and central America.

My needs are pretty much identical with anyone who uses their RV in extreme cold. You do not do that, and it is great that you don't have to, because the system might just fall short of the needs. You must also be psysic. How is it that you know where I may or may not be?

For example last night at 1 a.m. the campground power went off. First my inverter picked up the load, then after that the furnace cut in.

It was -23 C (-9.4 f) outside. That would be enough to freeze up the entire rv quite quickly, if I had no "fail over" in place. Because I do, I slept right through the night.

[COLOR=]So did I. Use your psysic powers to figure out where I am.
Hint; The outside temp is 41C.
I know your stance, you have stated it in several other threads you have interupted and I do not care about your stance.
I share my experiences with those interested by PM or e-mail to avoid those that seem to enjoy disrupting discussions with no pertinent information.
You have no need for that information.
I will give you this much: The system paid for itself within three years and it has been used in temperatures as low as -14F in Whitehorse. In your metric world that would be -25.555556 if I did the conversion correctly. Not extreme but chilly.
Its wonderful that you system meets your needs, mine does the same for me.
One thng that is apparent is that those who think they know it all about the system are a hindrence to to those of us that do and have installed many and personaly used it. I have and will assisted anyone with choosing the configuration that suits their individual needs.
I will banty with you no longer. You have no useful information. :B

[pianotuna]

Hi harold,

You know very well my stance on the "cheap heat (NOT)" system. Too bad you choose to NOT share your extensive factual knowledge and real life experience of the system with others.

I have done more than one "back yard" experiment to show how many watts are needed to heat a class C. Where are your results?

My needs are pretty much identical with anyone who uses their RV in extreme cold. You do not do that, and it is great that you don't have to, because the system might just fall short of the needs.

For example last night at 1 a.m. the campground power went off. First my inverter picked up the load, then after that the furnace cut in. It was -23 C (-9.4 f) outside. That would be enough to freeze up the entire rv quite quickly, if I had no "fail over" in place. Because I do, I slept right through the night.

[harold1946]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi harold,

No, thanks. The cheap heat system (which is ANYTHING but cheap, even if you DIY) does not come close to being suited to my needs. If you wish to correct my statements feel free. But when I last looked during previous discussions my statements were accurate.

harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

Your statement; "does not come close to being suited to my needs" is the key phrase. That in no way has anything to do with anyone elses want or needs.
I would expect that one would venture to help, not hinder the exchange if information.
I am not trying to convince anyone or sell anyone on the system, only give factual information , not guesswork.
Maybe it is asking too much to expect the same from others.
:@

[pompomgirl]

We we were concerned about frozen plumbing and consulted Monaco support. They advised that running the furnace would help protect the systems by keeping the basement warm. So we are using the electric heat and a couple of ceramic heaters down to about 28 degrees, and then firing up the furnace for the night but keeping it set pretty low - between 60 and 63 or whatever it takes to be just comfortably cool. We also have an electric mattress pad but don't need to set it very high. Also two warm little furbodies in bed with us don't hurt any.

[pianotuna]

Hi harold,

No, thanks. The cheap heat system (which is ANYTHING but cheap, even if you DIY) does not come close to being suited to my needs. If you wish to correct my statements feel free. But when I last looked during previous discussions my statements were accurate.

harold1946 wrote:
I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

[harold1946]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Phil,

You can not run cheap heat system and the furnace at the same time. It is either/or not both at once.

As it comes from the maker, it will not switch over to the propane furnace if the power goes off. They do not offer an add on kit to make this possible. One has to design a circuit and add a relay to do so.

They do have a model that is wired to work with 30 amp RV's. But it can not be used at all if the shore power is only 15 amps.

As Harold points out the 30 amp version can be wired to use a 50 amp pedestal. However they don't offer a kit to do so.

The 30 amp version will not meet the heating needs of the climate where I live. It is a bit better than a heat strip, because it offers more wattage and the heat does come from the regular heat vents.

In "the only game in town" rv park I am in, they would charge me extra for a 50 amp and a 30 amp connection to their pedestals. In fact they even charge extra if you plug into 30 amp and 20 amp at the same time. Fortunately I have a 50 amp "break out box" that allows me to use both legs of the 50 amp service on my modified RV.

In short, a 30 amp rv may be better off with a space heater, and it is certainly cheaper to do so than to modify the furnace by adding the "cheap heat" system.

I suggest more research. Two of your statements are wrong. You figure out which ones.

[harold1946]

I believe that the vast majority of the RVers have the common sense to switch the system to PL if there is any question of possible power loss or if the electric heating is not adequate.
I also believe there are very few that routinely camp in sub freezing temperatures.
The "fail over" circuitry can be be done for less than $20.00 if one feels it is necessary or desirable.

[pianotuna]

Hi Phil,

You can not run cheap heat system and the furnace at the same time. It is either/or not both at once.

As it comes from the maker, it will not switch over to the propane furnace if the power goes off. They do not offer an add on kit to make this possible. One has to design a circuit and add a relay to do so.

They do have a model that is wired to work with 30 amp RV's. But it can not be used at all if the shore power is only 15 amps.

As Harold points out the 30 amp version can be wired to use a 50 amp pedestal. However they don't offer a kit to do so.

The 30 amp version will not meet the heating needs of the climate where I live. It is a bit better than a heat strip, because it offers more wattage and the heat does come from the regular heat vents.

In "the only game in town" rv park I am in, they would charge me extra for a 50 amp and a 30 amp connection to their pedestals. In fact they even charge extra if you plug into 30 amp and 20 amp at the same time. Fortunately I have a 50 amp "break out box" that allows me to use both legs of the 50 amp service on my modified RV.

In short, a 30 amp rv may be better off with a space heater, and it is certainly cheaper to do so than to modify the furnace by adding the "cheap heat" system.