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2013 ERA 170A modifications ?

Book
Explorer
Explorer
1-How to hook up rear tv to surround sound?
2-adding insulation
3-can you survive a day below freezing without winterizing
The Book
6 REPLIES 6

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
JMHO (and that can mean nothing), I'd never bring fiberglass insulation near my rig if at all possible. The Styrofoam stuff is more expensive, but if it gets on me, I dust it off, I don't get all itchy. Plus, one can get grades of foam, from EPS to XPS, etc.

Foam insulation should be easier to fix than fiberglass once you get the mice out as well.

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
mlts22 wrote:
2: I wonder about using styrofoam-based insulation sheets over fiberglass. Main reason is that if foam gets wet, who cares. If fiberglass batting gets wet, it becomes a home for mold and mildew.


Foam of any kind trumps fiberglass. First, fiberglass is glass and when it breaks and is inhaled it is as nasty as asbestos in the lungs. In most cases the movement of air (convection) is the biggest loss of heat, altho in RVs conduction of heat thru the glass is significant but there are better insulators for glass. I can attest to the mold capacity of fiberglass, mostly the paper. My other problem is nesting mice and their droppings.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
2: I wonder about using styrofoam-based insulation sheets over fiberglass. Main reason is that if foam gets wet, who cares. If fiberglass batting gets wet, it becomes a home for mold and mildew.

3: I like Vornado heaters, They push around warm air, so they don't heat an area immediately, but keep it warmed over time. Will the heat propagate to tanks? Likely the fresh water, but not sure about grey/black. With a warm interior, going a night below freezing shouldn't be a big deal.

bobojay5
Explorer
Explorer
Can't help with no. 1. No. 2, I pulled all the drawers, rear bed covers, 4 phillips screws on each, bought a batt of fiberglass insulation, the 6" thick size, and put it in any areas there was bare metal showing, except around the converter and furnace. Used a whole roll of it. Also bought several sections of the 1/2" foam pipe wrap, and installed it everywhere there was accessible water lines, both hot & cold, even the little short sections around the hot water heater and sinks, water pump area, and around the back where the water lines wrap across the back between the beds.
At the same time, I used a whole package of plastic tie wraps to clean up the routing of any wiring that I could see and get to and checked for any that might rub somewhere they shouldn't be. (found one water line that had been rubbing on a screw)
We just went through 2 nights of sub 26 degree temps with no problems. The temp did go above freezing during the day though
Bob & Sharon
Eastern Kansas
2013 Winnebago ERA 70A
Class B Van

Fastpaddler
Explorer
Explorer
Our 1500 Watt ceramic heater which can be set to rotate, really heats up our PW. We use it a lot in Fall instead of the furnace but not at night due to potential fire hazard. The furnace is 16000 btu but it keeps us awake so we tend to keep the thermostat low and cocoon ourselves in the (separate)Roots Outdoor sleeping bag. If it is really cold the 2 bags become one, along with the contents!! Of course, winter here on Vancouver Island is pretty wimpy!!!

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
Book wrote:

2-adding insulation
3-can you survive a day below freezing without winterizing


2. This is what was recommended on another thread.reflectix I bought it, but havent installed it yet.

3. I visit relatives in Michigan all year and she has a puny 15 amp outdoor hookup which makes it challenging for me when temps are below 30oF, but I have never had a problem at a CG with robust amperage. I plug my overhead (wimpy) heater into one plug, a second extension into another and plug in my infrared heater
I actually tried one of those little barrel heaters with blower and it was useless. I set that IR heater aimed right at me and it gets warm. I have also considered a Single Tank-Top Propane Heater which is safe with a window cracked an inch (I also have a CO/CO2 monitor in the RV) but the drawback is moisture buildup (water is byproduct of burning propane).
I have also been considering a a low voltage mattress pad which shouldnt trip the breaker when the heater is running.
I have to admit that my 1992 RVan was very leaky to air, but I replaced all the rubber gaskets around windows and doors this summer. When I install the reflectix I will have a piece for the front windows and things should be much warmer. In summer it is the windows that are hot to the touch, so I expect that may also be where I am losing heat.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion