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Air Suspension question

dad2aprincess
Explorer
Explorer
We just bought a new 2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador diesel. I'm not familiar with diesel engines or air suspension / air brakes and am getting different input from different people. Here are a few questions:
1.) How long should you let it idle to 'air up' before pulling away? I let it run 10 or 15 minutes before the first trip; it seemed like an awfully rough ride for the first half hour or so, like it was riding on the chassis.
2.) Should you 'dump' the air when you park for the night? There is a manual / auto switch and the salesman said to leave it in auto. I don't see any other place to dump air.
3.) Do the air brakes affect the ride height in any way? When trying to park inside my subdivision at night (doing a lot of pulling forward and backing up), it seemed to lose a lot of air, which lowered the chassis and caused it to drag.

Thanks in advance for your input!
2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 38DBT
28 REPLIES 28

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
dad2aprincess wrote:
Toban,

To my knowledge, there are no 'air brake courses' offered in AR. I'm trying to LEARN. That's why I'm on the forum. If you noticed, I just bought the thing. If you have advice, please provide it. That's why I'm here.


You will find commercial courses but they're long and expensive. However, go down to your local DMV and ask for the CDL driver's book. This is just like the smaller driver's book they hand out to get a standard drivers license only the CDL book will contain the info on how to use air brakes which will teach you a lot.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

dad2aprincess
Explorer
Explorer
Toban,

To my knowledge, there are no 'air brake courses' offered in AR. I'm trying to LEARN. That's why I'm on the forum. If you noticed, I just bought the thing. If you have advice, please provide it. That's why I'm here.
2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 38DBT

toban
Explorer
Explorer
Gary and Jan:

It's really scary how many people driving these air brake motorhomes down the same highways and know so little about them. They operate so differently than a hydraulic brake vehicle.

I had to get a commercial truck licence in Ontario which included writing a commercial truck exam and an air brake endorsement test/ road test to drive my motorhome complete with a medical. You have to do this every 5 years up to the age of 80.

People really need to be tested on the operation of air brakes if nothing else.

Toban

RayChez
Explorer
Explorer
It sounds to me like you might have a height adjuster valve stuck in the open position and your airbags are not inflating proper which is giving you the rough ride and dragging to low. Even though Monaco coaches have always road kind of stiff because of the ten air bag system. You also have air gauges that will show how much air you have in the system. I usually will not move until the pressure goes up around 120 lbs on both gauges. Do not drive off with the airbags not inflated, it could cause some damage to the drive shaft U-joint because of too much angle.
2002 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser
330 HP Caterpillar 3126-E
3000 Allison Transmission
Neway Freightliner chassis
2017 Buick Envision

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
dad2aprincess wrote:
We just bought a new 2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador diesel. I'm not familiar with diesel engines or air suspension / air brakes and am getting different input from different people. Here are a few questions:
1.) How long should you let it idle to 'air up' before pulling away? I let it run 10 or 15 minutes before the first trip; it seemed like an awfully rough ride for the first half hour or so, like it was riding on the chassis.
2.) Should you 'dump' the air when you park for the night? There is a manual / auto switch and the salesman said to leave it in auto. I don't see any other place to dump air.
3.) Do the air brakes affect the ride height in any way? When trying to park inside my subdivision at night (doing a lot of pulling forward and backing up), it seemed to lose a lot of air, which lowered the chassis and caused it to drag.

Thanks in advance for your input!


dad2aprincess,
Well Sir, I will not presume to offer you advice on a coach I know nothing about. But, I will say that, letting a diesel run for as long as you did for your first trip, is:
1, wasting fuel
2. not needed, according to all the newer diesel operation specs and procedures.
Todays engines, diesels in particular, do not require the long "warmup" time for efficient running as they sort of did, in yesteryear.

Now, some will agree and some won't but, absolutely nothing damaging will happen to your engine if you started it up and, let it run 'till the air pressure reached max, on both gauges, usually around 1 minute or so then, take off. Now, unless you're camped next to and on ramp for which you'd need to use to head off in the direction you're headed, cruising through the camp ground, town or city or, country roads as slower speeds will also assist in warming up the engine but, at least you're moving and not sitting still.

Dennis gave you advice on "fast idle" operation using the cruise control. Well, that works on most vehicles only on mine, it's not the "set" button that rises the rpms. It's the "Resume/accell button that raises it. You can turn the Cruise on and then hit the "set" button just to activate the system, as you would if you were driving. But, it's the "resume/Accel button that actually does the rising of the engine rpms, just like it would if you wanted to speed up with the cruise, while driving. No biggie, it's just the way mine works.

Now, again, I have no idea how the intracasies of the suspension and leveling system works on your coach but, in ours, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, the brakes have nothing to do with the suspension with the exception of the parking brake.

For example, on ours, you can be driving and hitting the brakes all you want and, it will NOT lower the rig. You will simply lower the air pressure to the point that the low air warning buzzer will activate, usually around 65 psi.

Now, what the parking brake has to do with the suspension is, you cannot dump the air, either in the Automatic Leveling Operation or, the manual one, without setting the parking brake. Conversely, if you are parked and, leveled, (of course all the air is out of the bags and, the jacks are down) and then start the engine, then release the parking brake, the HWH computerized leveling system will then begin automatically to start retracting the jacks and, airing up the bags.

So, on yours, what you really need to do, since the air head sales people did not provide you with adequate knowledge and training on the operation of your particular system is, find the books and manuals, and, see EXACTLY HOW YOUR PARTICULAR RIG operates and what's used for leveling, including procedure's. Good luck.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

dad2aprincess
Explorer
Explorer
As far as I know, we have hydraulic stabilizer jacks. I don't know about the air leveling system, other than it does have an air ride suspension. I'll have to try and locate the travel button. The dealer didn't seem to know what most of the buttons did.

I have a very tight driveway, so yes I'm probably using two feet to back in, because my wife is constantly yelling "Easy! Stop! Slow!". I can park much easier at a campground without much trouble.

By the way, I've read the manual several times, cover to cover. It's almost useless. I'm convinced there MUST be another manual to this thing. My car's owner's manual is far more extensive than the HR manual. It says things like 'dump the air', or 'air it up' but it doesn't tell you how to do it. I guess they think everyone is experienced. I especially love how the manual refers to using a remote control for the inverter, but no such remote exists.

Thanks everyone for the good counsel.
2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 38DBT

dons2346
Explorer
Explorer
" Then turn on the Cruise Control. Press the Set button on the steering wheel. This will increase the idle to about 1500-1800 RPM."

Yup, how to make friends in a campground

Executive45
Explorer III
Explorer III
First several questions...do you have hydraulic stabilizer jacks or an air leveling system or both? Second, when parking, are you using two feet to move the coach? One on the go pedal and one on the whoa pedal?

When first starting the coach, turn the key and start it. Then turn on the Cruise Control. Press the Set button on the steering wheel. This will increase the idle to about 1500-1800 RPM. As the air pressure builds you'll see the increase on your gauges. When the pressure reaches 115-120 you'll hear the pressure relief valve expel. If you have an air leveling system, press the "Travel" button. Watch your gauges, they should drop to about 95psi or so and then begin to build again as your air bags inflate. Once the travel light turns green and you hear the pressure relief valve expel again, you're ready to travel.

Monaco recommends you have a fully aired coach before deploying or retracting the slides.

If you're using the air levelers, they will automatically dump the air and level the coach. After about 30 mins the computer will reactivate and relevel, dumping any excess air. Leave it on automatic. It knows what to do.

Your air brakes have no effect on your leveling. You will have two ride height valves, one in the front and one in the rear. You might want to have both checked if you think they're not operating properly.

I recommend you read up on the air system on your coach. There are certain checks you should do before moving your coach. The more you know about the function of your air system, the safer you'll be as a driver. Many States require you to pass an air system check before issuing a license. I think it should be mandatory in all 50 States...but that's just me.

Finally, while it's an old military video, (1967), it's very informative....Click HERE....enjoy your new rig....Dennis
We can do more than we think we can, but most do less than we think we do
Dennis and Debi Fourteen Years Full Timing
Monaco Executive M-45PBQ Quad Slide
525HP Cummins ISM 6 Spd Allison
2014 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ W/ ReadyBrute
CLICK HERE TO VIEW OUR TRAVEL BLOG

dad2aprincess
Explorer
Explorer
Jim, so you're manually dumping the air (by use of the brake) when you park for the night? Is there any disadvantage to leaving it in auto and then lowering the jacks?

We have 4 jacks, one in each corner. I had it parked at the house for a week and noticed that it became un-level during that time. When I started it up today to take off, I noticed it was un-level (as soon as I turned ON the panel for the jacks but before I retracted them). If parked somewhere for several days, is it necessary to re-level every few days, or does this indicate a problem?

When do you guys turn on your engine brake? Should I use it from the time I exit the interstate? Will that keep me from dumping so much air driving through town and when backing into my driveway? My driveway isn't steep but I'm concerned I may have to re-grade it because of all the dragging.

Thanks again for all the great responses!
2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 38DBT

Gary_and_Jan
Explorer
Explorer
Be smart take the time and take a air brake course. They are not expensive and no one should drive a air brake system without a course. It is illegal in Canada.

JimM68
Explorer
Explorer
I'm not sure how much your 2015 differs from our '08, but Knight and Ambassador were always "sister ships", tho I think a 2015 has more in common with a Fleetwood...

Regardless...
We have 2 air pressure gauges in the dash. "normal" is 115 psi. The low pressure alarm goes off at 65 psi. The suspension "air's up" at that 65 psi, and doesn't take long to come all the way up.
The coach is safe to drive once the low pressure alarm turns off, and the emergency brake will not release below that 65 psi air pressure.

Once you are over 65 psi, the system will achieve normal ride height immediately, and will maintain that normal ride height until / unless the pressure should drop below 65 psi.

The Monaco hydraulic power gear jacks have nothing to do with the air system, other than that raising the jacks does open the air dump valve.

Being habitually in a hurry, I generally stroke the brake pedal repeatedly (key on engine off) to release the air pressure, prior to using the jacks.

I always use manual. Used auto once, it took forever, jerked the coach around all over the place, and finally achieved level 6" higher than I'm able to do it in manual.

Does your 2015 still have the 3 legged jack system, with just one front jack?

Up on the front to just barely lift.
Up both rears to front/rear level
up one rear to level side to side.

With some practice, you get pretty good at it.
Jim M.
2008 Monaco Knight 40skq, moho #2
The "68"
My very own new forumfirstgens.com

My new blog

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
#3 - No, using the air brakes should not effect the air suspension ride height. Granted that while you're going back and forth, the engine will be more or less at an idle and therefore the compressor is not producing a lot of air, but you shouldn't be using a lot of air when moving that slow. It sounds like you're over using the brakes. Are you riding them or maybe stomping on them too hard when you stop to cause a large drop in air pressure?

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

dan-nickie
Explorer
Explorer
There have been many reports of the suspension not airing up some times.
Usually retracting the jacks clears the issue.
I always watch the air gauges and let them build up before retracting jacks. (I think this is the key)
And I always walk around and check the wheel well clearance above the tires to make sure the suspension did air up,
Dan and Nickie
2014 Forest River Berkshire 390RB

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
dad2aprincess wrote:
We just bought a new 2015 Holiday Rambler Ambassador diesel. I'm not familiar with diesel engines or air suspension / air brakes and am getting different input from different people. Here are a few questions:
1.) How long should you let it idle to 'air up' before pulling away? I let it run 10 or 15 minutes before the first trip; it seemed like an awfully rough ride for the first half hour or so, like it was riding on the chassis.
2.) Should you 'dump' the air when you park for the night? There is a manual / auto switch and the salesman said to leave it in auto. I don't see any other place to dump air.
3.) Do the air brakes affect the ride height in any way? When trying to park inside my subdivision at night (doing a lot of pulling forward and backing up), it seemed to lose a lot of air, which lowered the chassis and caused it to drag.

Thanks in advance for your input!


You should have an air pressure gauge, never pull away until it is in the green, each coach will be different.

Both the brake system and the ride system get their air from the same place. but read the coach manual do what it says there.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.