โSep-26-2016 11:32 AM
โNov-03-2016 09:10 AM
โNov-01-2016 09:38 PM
Sam Spade wrote:
Yes and no.
NOT a cheap "trickle charger".
An inexpensive small AUTOMATIC battery maintainer type charger; 1.5 to 2 amp is the most common size.
Can be had at any auto parts store or big box hardware or WalMart for about $20.
And if you have access to power where the "trailer" is stored, you don't need to remove the battery either. Down to about -40 F the cold is actually good for them.
โOct-27-2016 10:20 AM
ragdogs wrote:
i plan on reading up on what to do during the winter with it (trickle charge?)
โOct-27-2016 07:57 AM
wrybread wrote:
Its a really big job to upgrade your batteries to accommodate that blower. I have 4 Trojan T-105 batteries (the big expensive 6 volt batteries) and 600 watts of solar panels, and I *still* don't have enough power to reliably power my furnace blower over night. The things pulls 80 watts, which is just crazy for an RV. I'm surprised these are used in RVs at all.
My solution was to mount a Buddy heater on the wall....
โOct-27-2016 12:00 AM
โOct-26-2016 08:52 PM
โOct-17-2016 06:15 AM
โOct-16-2016 06:51 PM
navegator wrote:
This is what we do for cold boondocking 2 to 3 days only after that run the generator to recharge the battery and have more time.
1 we have kerosen lamps, the ones that get shot in the western movies, light and heat.
2 we also cook on the stove, spaghetti and use the oven for dinner, x-mass simple dinners pre prepaired.
3 limit the amount of water usage, also have an accumulator for water pump saves battery
4 have a small opening on the window of the galley need ventilation while kerosen lamps are lit, do not use roof vent heat loss is faster
5 do not turn thermostat on heater above 68 during day and 60 for sleeping
6 have an outside and inside thermometer, can see both at the same time
7 limit the opening and closing of door going in and out
8 we have front windshield cover and hanging curtain inside, can feel temp diff from window to cabin on both spaces
9 have warm blankets to wrap arround when sitting
10 we lower thermostat at night to 60
11 we have a minus 40 double sleeping bag
12 snugle up with wife, buddy warmth!
13 only turn heater in morning to brake the chill
14 boughht carpet runners, our floor is wood laminate
I found that the biggest source of heat loss is at the entrance door, not even more foam insulation on the oppening helps, those doors are not that good.
We only have one 12v deep discharge gel cell marine battery for the cabin, the whole idea is in conserving the power to run the heater fan when needed and use alernate sources of light, led lamps were not available when we purchased our unit, latter they were a bit pricy so I only installed four, one in the head, one for wife to read, one in the galley and one out side, I can read with my kerosen lamp, and no tv or radio or music from CDs, some times we do not even see the park rangers at all, we mail the payment to the office, we found out that some people steel the payments from the collection boxes.
navegator
โOct-12-2016 09:37 AM
โOct-09-2016 05:02 PM
MacZulu wrote:
the OPs original post is what I did last spring, which kicked off my research. best info I found was
RV battery charging
I also found this interesting
your rv may be killing your battery
โOct-08-2016 09:52 PM
pnichols wrote:
I'm a bit confused by the short battery life with furnace use comments here.
In high 30's temps at night our furnace cycles nicely when set at 60 degrees - about 5 minutes ON every 15 minutes or so. It's blower draws round 7 amps when it's running ... so cycling such that it's ON 5 minutes around 4 times every 60 minutes means it runs about 4 times X 5 minutes = 20 minutes every 60 minutes. This means that it consumes about 1/3 of 7 amp-hours = 2.33 amp-hours every hour on a high 30's temperatures night.
For a 10 hour night run this means that it consumes only about 23 amp-hours of our 230 amp-hour 12V AGM deep cycle battery bank's capacity.
We also run a couple of CPAP machines at night (room temp air only - no heat). Our batteries easily go 2-3 days this way before needing charging after dropping them down to around a 40 per cent state of charge (60 per cent of capacity used). We have a small 24 foot Class C that we block off the cab area on and our furnace is a 26,000 BTU one. We keep all shades drawn to better trap a layer of insulating air between the shades and the window glass. We also wedge a sheet of insulating material between the the shade and the window glass on one window by the bed. We do not have any solar on board.
I wonder why some of you are experiencing such short battery life with furnace use? Our propane furnace has worked well so far without seeming to be a battery hog at all - but we have not yet tried to drycamp in 20 degree weather!
โOct-08-2016 09:28 PM
wrybread wrote:
Its a really big job to upgrade your batteries to accommodate that blower. I have 4 Trojan T-105 batteries (the big expensive 6 volt batteries) and 600 watts of solar panels, and I *still* don't have enough power to reliably power my furnace blower over night. The things pulls 80 watts, which is just crazy for an RV. I'm surprised these are used in RVs at all.
โOct-07-2016 02:55 PM
โOct-05-2016 10:28 AM