I got started on my summer project the last couple days. I found this thing on Craig's list for $100 and drove it home. It's a 78 Dodge Monaco 23' with a 440. Here's what it looked like when I brought it home.
Ok, time to dive in!
Oh man, I can't believe the huge bag of rusty screws I have already! It's actually not as rotten as I was thinking it was going to be. Just in the corners, where the screws need to be. Still so much to remove....
Ok, time to dive in!
Oh man, I can't believe the huge bag of rusty screws I have already! It's actually not as rotten as I was thinking it was going to be. Just in the corners, where the screws need to be. Still so much to remove....
I really appreciate you guys keeping the roof in mind. My only conditions are that it's something I can get easily at a Lowes or Depo and isn't too expensive. :B
It poured all morning and didn't start to dry out till 3 o'clock. I got outside shortly after that and got a little more done on that rear floor. I got the 2x2s cut and glued in on the right side.
Then I got the rear cross piece cut and glued in. Finally both sides are tied together! There's still a few more pieces to get put in but I should be putting the top plywood on soon (if the weather gives me a break).
It poured all morning and didn't start to dry out till 3 o'clock. I got outside shortly after that and got a little more done on that rear floor. I got the 2x2s cut and glued in on the right side.
Then I got the rear cross piece cut and glued in. Finally both sides are tied together! There's still a few more pieces to get put in but I should be putting the top plywood on soon (if the weather gives me a break).
Spectramac, since I first suggested the over hang roof suggestion I have been giving it some more though also. Ron.Dittmer you idea of a roof that uses light plastic as a roof covering. Will this support a human weight placed on it, between the structure joist, bearing on two points relative small areas....the feet ???
In thinking some more, some where in my past I saw an older truck camper once that had the aluminum roof that over hanging the sides & back of about 4". SO....how about on your roof trusses you notch the bottoms to rest & fasten on your top plates of your walls. Then extend the ends to go another 4" or so past the outside of the outer finished walls 2-3 " thick. Then say oh,......2-3" flat/down (horizontal), out at the outer edges. ( It would raise your roof that 2-3" also) This allows you to run your structural plywood under layment, over the TOP of the roof trusses and seamless out over the edges, past the walls by 4". Cover the edges & bottom of the over hang with plywood also. Then when laying & gluing the rubber top over the under layment, it is also continuous. Running over the top. down the 2-3" side of the front of the overhang, and below back 4" to the wall. Some chrome or plastic continuous trim to conceal the seam. If a person could use a light weight water proof material to seal the space's between the structural joist, THEN any leaks that would accrue out there on the overhang would not be able to drain back into the walls. The only problem that I might see is, does that rubber take a 90 degree bend & wear at this edge very well. Clearance lights could be out on this overhang away from penatrations in the outer part of the wall. One thing from my construction back ground, the edges of the roof plywood underlayment have to fall on your structure member, and...screwed (counter sunk) down at short intervals. To keep underlayment from moving/racking from each other, to break the seam and allow a similar movement/seam bend to show and possible weaken in the rubber roof. What do you thing of all of this ??????
In thinking some more, some where in my past I saw an older truck camper once that had the aluminum roof that over hanging the sides & back of about 4". SO....how about on your roof trusses you notch the bottoms to rest & fasten on your top plates of your walls. Then extend the ends to go another 4" or so past the outside of the outer finished walls 2-3 " thick. Then say oh,......2-3" flat/down (horizontal), out at the outer edges. ( It would raise your roof that 2-3" also) This allows you to run your structural plywood under layment, over the TOP of the roof trusses and seamless out over the edges, past the walls by 4". Cover the edges & bottom of the over hang with plywood also. Then when laying & gluing the rubber top over the under layment, it is also continuous. Running over the top. down the 2-3" side of the front of the overhang, and below back 4" to the wall. Some chrome or plastic continuous trim to conceal the seam. If a person could use a light weight water proof material to seal the space's between the structural joist, THEN any leaks that would accrue out there on the overhang would not be able to drain back into the walls. The only problem that I might see is, does that rubber take a 90 degree bend & wear at this edge very well. Clearance lights could be out on this overhang away from penatrations in the outer part of the wall. One thing from my construction back ground, the edges of the roof plywood underlayment have to fall on your structure member, and...screwed (counter sunk) down at short intervals. To keep underlayment from moving/racking from each other, to break the seam and allow a similar movement/seam bend to show and possible weaken in the rubber roof. What do you thing of all of this ??????
The weather was real nice to me all through June and July, then August got a little off and on wet. That made it hard to move ahead with the big parts. Then Sept started off really dry and got me back into the project. Now it's looking like we're going to head into fall for sure, so I'm not sure what else I'll be able to get done before the monsoons hit.
There was only a mild mist outside tonight, so I managed to get the left side plywood glued and stapled in. Then I covered it all up so it can dry... in the dry. I found a good use for the old battery out of the rig too, it makes a nice hold down clamp. 😉
There was only a mild mist outside tonight, so I managed to get the left side plywood glued and stapled in. Then I covered it all up so it can dry... in the dry. I found a good use for the old battery out of the rig too, it makes a nice hold down clamp. 😉
I got the most of the left side pieced out. I added an extra 2x under the tub area and a couple in the front for strength.
Then I figured I better get over to the other side. It wasn't near as bad, but I may as well get rid of the rotten edge.
That's more like it.
Now to find another good long piece of 1/2 inch ply...
Then I figured I better get over to the other side. It wasn't near as bad, but I may as well get rid of the rotten edge.
That's more like it.
Now to find another good long piece of 1/2 inch ply...
I'm not sure if it's easier or not, but that's how I've been doing it so far, so no sense doing it different now. :B The upper ply will get replaced but the lower stuff is still in pretty good shape away from the edges. I'm going to add some extra 2x2s where needed also.
I got the new lower ply cut and it fits!
Oh yeah, I'm liking that roof!
I got the new lower ply cut and it fits!
Oh yeah, I'm liking that roof!
Are you sure your approach is easier than replacing 100% of the floor? Or is there a lot of stuff under the RV mounted to the underside of the floor?
About the roof. I know you mentioned doing some of this, but I'll list my overlapping thoughts.
1) Crown it with 2x6's cut with arches.
2) Have rounded edges along the two sides and back. The 2x6's should help there.
3) Use thin sheet stock fiberglass for the finish roofing material, and roll it over the rounded edges.
4) Have the fiberglass overlap the siding.
5) Use caulk and trim to seal and finish it off.
This way, water could never get in the walls where the roof meets the sides and back. Maybe the same principle could be applied to the front.
Do something similar to this. It is difficult to see with the color changes, but in the picture, the white fiberglass roof rolls over a rounded edge to the rain cutter and awning. The fiberglass is painted right at the point of roll-over, but it's the same sheet of material.
About the roof. I know you mentioned doing some of this, but I'll list my overlapping thoughts.
1) Crown it with 2x6's cut with arches.
2) Have rounded edges along the two sides and back. The 2x6's should help there.
3) Use thin sheet stock fiberglass for the finish roofing material, and roll it over the rounded edges.
4) Have the fiberglass overlap the siding.
5) Use caulk and trim to seal and finish it off.
This way, water could never get in the walls where the roof meets the sides and back. Maybe the same principle could be applied to the front.
Do something similar to this. It is difficult to see with the color changes, but in the picture, the white fiberglass roof rolls over a rounded edge to the rain cutter and awning. The fiberglass is painted right at the point of roll-over, but it's the same sheet of material.
