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Fixing water damage on the old Dodge (pics)

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
I got started on my summer project the last couple days. I found this thing on Craig's list for $100 and drove it home. It's a 78 Dodge Monaco 23' with a 440. Here's what it looked like when I brought it home.





Ok, time to dive in!











Oh man, I can't believe the huge bag of rusty screws I have already! It's actually not as rotten as I was thinking it was going to be. Just in the corners, where the screws need to be. Still so much to remove....
Malcolm
813 REPLIES 813

RVSKIER
Explorer
Explorer
Keep going Spec and keep us posted with those pictures, I love this thread I check it every day for updates. wish I had time to do something like this.
By the way what are you going to replace the foam insulation in the floor with? If I could have done one this to my class C that would have been to put more insulation into the floor, my feet always got cold in the winter time.
RVSKIER
2001 Itasca 30W
Faster, Faster, Until the Thrill
of Speed Over Comes The Fear Of Death

ALnCORY
Explorer
Explorer
Hang in there Spec.... I know at times it seemed like I was getting nowhere on mine (and my project was nothing compared to yours). Once you start actually putting it back together it will be more fun... I got tired of just tearing things out, it was much better putting it back together.
Al
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
The forecast is looking good for this weekend so I'm excited about getting this rear floor finished up and moving on to the next project. I may as well do some exploratory surgery on the remaining center floor section. I see a lot of nails have been added on the seam to keep it down, so I'll want to see what's under there. Then I can build new fender boxes out of 3/4 ply and then move to the next big task... rebuilding the overhead base. I still have most of the old one, but the whole edge around it is gone, so I'll probably just use it as a template and make a whole new one. Sure be nice to get back to my 1/2 made walls one of these days... 🙂
Malcolm

ALnCORY
Explorer
Explorer
Framing looks great Spec..... I am sure it is stronger than the original.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

lzasitko
Explorer
Explorer
zed1k wrote:
If I end up rebuilding my roof, I will probally keep it flat for the width of the a/c roof vents etc, then taper off from there. I would probally try to do it similar to this LINK


Wow that trailer rebuild is something else.....
I think I would have done it more like Spectramac and take it all down to the deck and go from there. In any case he did a nice job and it looks like it was done in the suburbs so a definite lack of space. He did a nice job of the posts and I think Spectramac should do a book about it (has been suggested before), be an inspiration to others that are contemplating the same sort of thing.

In the next couple years I suspect that I may have to redo the roof of our Class A It has a fiberglass roof and generally is in pretty good shape but the previous owner was not watching it as close as she should have. The fiberglass came down the sides a couple inches and they had a metal strip and caulking at the transition from roof to siding. In any case there was enough flexing that a section of roof pulled away from the framing (about 2' long) and water could get in. I never saw it until after I got it home as it was blocked from site by the awning. I fastened it all down again but a couple places there was nothing behind it to screw to. I had to drill holes anyways so I injected epoxy and used blocks and straps to hold it in place to dry then put in screws. Re-caulked it all but... With only 2x2 roof framing it is also starting to sag a bit inside. Would like to fix it right and change to a epdm roof. We go to the stock car races and a couple time it would have been great to go up on the roof to watch. I can generally get close enough but still....

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, Mr H. A big shop would help a lot as the monsoon season is looming closer and closer. :B

Ok, update time! Got the right side lower plywood glued in.



I used up my first bundle of 2x2s today, but the rear frame is DONE!



I added a little box under the toilet to give it something more to mount to. Not sure if it was a problem area or not, but better safe than sorry.
Malcolm

Lucky_Mr_H
Explorer
Explorer
I swear I'm going to set up a Pay Pal account for Malcolm, so all us fans can donate a coule of bucks and keep him going, and so he doesn't need to worry about money so much.

But I would like to see what it does come to staying on a limitted budget.

I'd put in $5.00 just for the sheer enjoyment of this post.

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
I like what he did there. I was hoping to use 2x4s though, I hate to make this thing that much heavier. I still want it to pull the boat over the mountains at a fair speed.

Hmmm, Sun's out but it's only 40* outside! Not sure what I can bring myself to do this morning? Brrr!
Malcolm

zed1k
Explorer
Explorer
If I end up rebuilding my roof, I will probally keep it flat for the width of the a/c roof vents etc, then taper off from there. I would probally try to do it similar to this LINK
Shawn
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 230BH LTZ
2004 Silverado 1500 CrewCab 5.3

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
John,
So, you don't like my freehand drawing there??? 😛

I didn't say I couldn't make a nice drawing, just that I don't like to. I'd rather be outside working on it. I could bust out the T-square and triangles if I really wanted to... I'm just not to that point yet. :B I like to do the designing as I go so I can see first hand how it's going to look and fit. Being a one man crew, this works ok for me.

AlnCORY,
Yeah, I remember the little strips around the openings. I don't know if I'll need them seeing as I'll have a real slope in the roof.
Malcolm

ALnCORY
Explorer
Explorer
spectamac,,
Don't forget on the roof vents, (either AC or regular vent) when they are built at the factory the hole is raised up. Seems to me like we used to add about 3/4 to and inch around them to allow roof to slope away from the vent. I am sure you have either thought of this or would have but I was flashing back to my days building rv's as a much younger man..... your re-ply on the back is looking good.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

John_H
Explorer
Explorer
Malcolm, I spent the last 5 years in my trade in the office drawing on paper, to make thing work in the real world & to pass this on to the guys who were out there noses to the grind stone so to speak. If you would go and buy a architectural triangle scale, (They are cheep) using the largest scale of 3"= 1' , this brings little things into detail, and drawing your project to scale as best you can in a cross section of the wall at roofs edge, Malcolm you will find that it is far easer to use an eraser on paper, than that to re -cut wood to fit later. Here is a very pleasent catch, And as a very good by product, it will trully amaze you how ideas/improvements come to you mind, in a studious true to scale drawing. As a teacher once told me, the more of the 6 senses you can use in learning, the quicker you will learn. Or ....a picture is worth a thousand words.
John H

Spectramac
Explorer
Explorer
I'll have to look for that stuff next time I'm there. Sounds interesting.

Here's my 'fancy' roof pic. I like to do stuff without plans usually, that way I can make a last minute change without feeling too guilty about it. 🙂



I figure I could leave the roof flat across the front as it will be downhill anyway, then make the top rounded with the exception of where the A/C unit (and maybe the rear vent) will be. Then leave the rear most board a flat one to make a little downhill run there too. Then again, rounding the downhill area in the front might also be good for wind resistance, and head room if I do the inside too!

John, I can hear my grandfather in you. He was an old carpenter who wasn't scared of any project. An overhang would probably be a good idea, but I'm scared I'd get laughed out of the campgrounds. I'd be the one laughing when they all show up the following years with water damage I guess. :B
Malcolm

John_H
Explorer
Explorer
Not trying to be pest here Malcolm, That if you were to drive threw an older, neighborhood housing development. That you would notice that there is no roof overhang from the side walls. That in later years the overhang was developed, to keep the melting water from backing up from the lower roofs ice jams at the roofs lower edges. In the winter from sudden weather warm ups, and flowing past/under the shingles and into the walls. Instead, with the roof overhang, when this occurs as it still does, the water gets past the shingles/plywood underlayment, but drips down & out from the bottom of the overhang, The rafters are notched to sit low at the tops, instead of sitting on top of the upper plates, this notch is called a "Birdmouth", in the trade. Thus allowing in the roofs slope, the overhangs lower horizontal bottom half tthat comes back into a/the finish wall at a lower point. Thus any water at this point meats a vertical finish wall to drain down. And on a house, any water problems with guttering/fascia board. away from the walls the depth of the overhang. I had a roofer foreman tell me once, that you can control water by the flow of the water, far, far better that to try and stop it.
Thus when I remember the older truck campers over hang, the two came together. Now whether this would apply to your class c traveling 60-70 with a head wind..........????? Your choice of course !! In your spare time, (pun intended) you might sketch out several potabilities. Key word here "POT", Only trying to pass on possibilities.
John H

lzasitko
Explorer
Explorer
Another thing to possibly keep in mind for the roof is a product available at home depot or most other building supply places is a roll of Ice Dam. It is a rubber membrane that has a sticky side, just peel off the paper and it will adhere to the roofing plywood. It is generally used in colder climates along the bottom of the roof to seal the roof against Ice Dams. In weather where it changes from warm to freezing and back again water on the roof melts and at the roof edge it can build up as it refreezes and it can get under the roofing and soak the plywood or chip board and it rots. By using the Ice Dam stuff under the shingle it can't get to the wood. You can nail through it and it will seal around the nails. Put that on and then what you want for roofing and it will never leak.

Good to see some progress made.

Don't know if you caught RVTV this week but they talked to Chad (Chad's Project Homemade 5th wheel).