How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Phantom59]

I have a 1980 Honey 20' class C named Mighty Mouse. It has been rebuilt, restored and updated from the ground up. The 360 has been bored out with an RV cam aluminum intake and headders with 2 1/2" flowmaster exhaust. Don't know how much HP it is making but the total weight of the MH anf trailer I tow is arounf 13,500 pounds and it does a prety good job. Click Here to see some of what I have done.
As was mentioned before I could have purchased a newer RV for what I have invested in this one but every thing I do to the Mouse makes it closer to exactly what I want it to be.

[Leeann]

^^ oops - that'll teach me to post before coffee 😉

[TreeSeeker]

Missjaymie,

A word of caution. Catalytic heaters of that age usually used asbestos for the burning mat. As you know asbestos is not good for your lungs and asbestos in a vehicle would get a lot of vibration which would tend to break loose more asbestos particles. I would suggest checking into this.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

First of all, welcome, Missjaymie.

Leeann - She has a catalytic heater, which is different from your forced-air heater.

Missjaymie wrote:
I believe the heater issue has to do with the "spark" it's an old thermx catalytic heater. I've gotten it to run once, but it usually wont light, and when it does it starts with a puff of flame, that quite frankly worries me.

The difference is combustion within a sealed chamber versus combustion on the surface of a synthetic mat.

Almost all catalytic heaters start with a puff of flame -- unnerving but not really dangerous unless you try to start it with your face, hands, hair or a combustible material close to it.

Leeann's heater draws combustion air in from outside and vents the fumes outside. Yours draws its combustion air from the surface of the synthetic mat (i.e., from the inside of the vehicle) and vents the fumes off the mat's surface, to the inside of the vehicle.

Not the best option for heat but okay if you use some precautions, in addition to the precaution mentioned above.

First, you need to be sure the oxygen used for combustion is replaced. Your vehicle probably has enough air leaks but I'd leave a window slightly open, just in case.

Second, install a good battery-operated carbon monoxide detector (always a good idea) and keep the batteries fresh.

Third, if you find yourself feeling light-headed, dizzy, or unusually sleepy, get out and get some fresh air. At night, I'd leave a window close to, and higher than, the bed slightly open to be sure you get fresh air while sleeping.

Don't let this scare you -- catalytic heaters are comparatively safe, as long as you are aware and use some common sense.

As for the range, Leeann is probably right -- if there's any gas in the lines, it's probably stale or significantly diluted. In my cabin, it takes a couple of minutes for the gas to reach the range and build up sufficient volume whenever I change cylinders.

Good luck and have fun.

[Missjaymie]

Thanks Leeann. I'm going to be out there fiddling with it tomorrow. I'll update if I get it running.

[Leeann]

Welcome, Jaymie!

You might need to take the heater apart. Don't know that model, but our propane furnace had clogged gas channels - rust - in it that wouldn't let it stay running. An hour or two with an utility knife and it's been perfect since.

Also, some contaminated/stale propane will live in the lines. Crack open a burner and let it sit for a minute or two (with your windows open). Close it and go away for a bit. Come back and try again.

[Missjaymie]

Just wanted to introduce myself. I'm Jaymie. I just bought this pretty little thing...


It has a little bit of water damage in the overhead bedroom area. I've been rooting out a leak in the roof for about three weeks, and finally found that the seal in the exit hatch is corroded away. I'm going to check the window in the front which looks suspect as well, but the damage seems to be minimal, and I'm going to fix it myself.

I'm slowly starting to go through the systems I need to check. I've started with the propane system, which passed the soapy water test, but failed to start either the stove, or the heater. I believe the heater issue has to do with the "spark" it's an old thermx catalytic heater. I've gotten it to run once, but it usually wont light, and when it does it starts with a puff of flame, that quite frankly worries me.

I fell in love with it the moment I saw it, and am looking forward to making her shiny!

[hoover4466]

hi all. i may have posted this before, anyway ,,
get the new and thinner synthetic oils for each section of your running gear. its well worthwile for mpg and service life.
-runs cooler, less friction, lasts longer -the oil and components. rear axle, trans, engine.
double check ujoints, and synthetic grease those when apart. (the HD joints dont have grease fitting, can use drilled replacement).
-there is now a retro-fit to oil lubed hubs for trailers, could be mabe to fit front hubs if one travels the miles, -at least check that frt bearings have been greased+inspected recently -these rigs can sit for years undriven-
make sure all tires aired up properly, esp with cold weather.
double check that front calipers dont drag excessively. -gets worse with heat of driving. -the older chassis would be drum brake, +rolls easiser.
drive at reasonable speeds, if you have an overdrive, we are jealous.
-the deal with control cables is partly friction down the tube, and part sticky flaps/valves. (the newer trucks went to vacuum pots, which can leak, the older trucks had push/pull cables that are stouter and simpler, an idea.-
my 85 is doing steady 9.5mpg now. ok thanks and blessings to all.

[ALnCORY]

Sounds like a great trip Eye.... fairly trouble free considing the distance and all... Thanks for the report.

[eyeteeth]

One week, and probably close to 2800 miles. Ran as wel as could be expected most of the time. Probably could have set fire to a small oil field and still saved consumption though. lol. I did have to re-wire the electrical control box Christmas day after it cooked itself again... 7:30 at night, after a bottle of wine, in the dark with a flashlight, with out any real 'wire' tools. I did notice a 'new' engine noise in Georgia on the way down. I was fearing the A/C Clutch bearing was going again, but hoping it would last through the trip. Had a great time a Fort DeSoto, would have liked ten more degrees, it rained on us in Tarpon Springs, Disney, and Unniveral Studios were packed. On the trip home it was noticiably warmer and more humid. Started sputtering and missing while still in Florida. Found a parts shop with an ignition module (swapping out the original unit... again) and she ran much better. The original unit had heated up enough to start dripping it's contents onto the engine. (again) All was fine until BFE Tennessee, 11:30pm when it became obvious the new engine noise wasn't the A/C Bearing, but the water pump... It took until about 1pm the following day for the most expensive waterpump repair ever to be completed so we could get back on the road. I had brought some tools, probably could have suffered through the repair, but getting the parts would have been a real challenge, not to mention being out in the cold... etc. Eventually got back home, had one heck of an adventure, and with a few more tools... and a few more upgrades... would do it again. Far too much of of an activity filled week to try and cover in a post, but thought I would share how she ran. We asked a whole heck of a lot of her... 23 1/2 hours straight through from Michigan to Florida... Kids woke up on the beach for the sunrise. Pretty cool.

P.S. I have a few pics of the cables for anyone who visits the yards...

[Trish_Davis]

oldtrucker63 wrote:
There not to hard to change, Finding a replacement Now that is a new story.

Junkyards, salvage yards probably the only places.
Or modify any existing cable.
Online, google "vintage RVs" and good luck, eyeteeth.

[oldtrucker63]

There not to hard to change, Finding a replacement Now that is a new story.

[Jer_Ger]

eyeteeth wrote:

I'll see what I can do.

And more fun... also broke the temperature control cable. Snapped in half behind the dash. Wow... just... wow... not even sure how to deal with that one.

Drove my Band to Detroit and back over the weekend for a show. Pulling our trailer with gear, and 8 people in the RV we got just over 6mpg! Wooo Hoo! lol. (Ouch)


Sounds like you need to quit trying to operate the controls with the 'choke' type cables until you get in there and lube them.

If it is like mine, check to see if the end where it attachs to the black box has come loose from the screw holding the outside of the cable. May just need to reattached and tightening the screw up. I used a good penetrant on that area where the little arm is so it would soak down too. And as said before, that arm on the box can be moved with a pair of pliers if need be (been there, done that) :).

[rehoppe]

eyeteeth wrote:
I'll see what I can do.

And more fun... also broke the temperature control cable. Snapped in half behind the dash. Wow... just... wow... not even sure how to deal with that one.

Drove my Band to Detroit and back over the weekend for a show. Pulling our trailer with gear, and 8 people in the RV we got just over 6mpg! Wooo Hoo! lol. (Ouch)

Sounds like you need to quit trying to operate the controls with the 'choke' type cables until you get in there and lube them.

[oldtrucker63]

eyeteeth wrote:
Well, looks like we're going to put our old girl to the an ultimate test. We're going to Disney World. From Michigan all the way down. Wow... I'm a little nervous, but it will be a vacation to never forget regardless.

Need a little help from our parts specialists. On the passenger side there is a vent down under the dash and a push/pull hand to open and close it. Basically it's a stiff cable that runs through the firewall. Years and years have gone by and this one rusteed out. I need a replacement. Thus far, I have been unable to find one. Anyone wanna take up the search?

That cable runs out under the hood to a black box, Should be passenger side, It changes the air/heat from fresh to recirculate, You can change the setting by hand by moving the arm where the cable hooks up, With the vent door closed will be recirculate and open is fresh, I would just close it and not worry about a cable right now, Its no big deal....Have a great/Safe Trip. Also I do believe you can find a cable from maybe a 10 speed bicycle or something like that and replace the cable.