How to keep RV warm enough in winter to avoid winterizing

[RedJeep]

I have a 2008 gas class A and live near Portland in the Pacific Northwest. We camp often during the winter so it is a pain to winterize and un-winterize during our relativity mild winters. I also find it wasteful to dump the fresh water tank.

My question is... Given that our lowest lows in winter are mid 20s I wonder what the most cost effective and simplest way would be to avoid winterizing.


The MH has six 12v batteries and I'm adding a solar system. Stored at a storage facility. No shore power.

Some ideas/thoughts:
Could I run a small electric heater or 100w light bulb inside the RV to keep everything warm enough to avoid freezing?

Anyone ever just set the thermostat on the lowest setting for the heater? I'm not sure how long the propane would last?

What about just empty the water heater tank and somehow heat the interior of the RV?

Electric heating elements could heat the fresh water tank but that would not protect hoses and water valves.

Or do most people in this area simply don't winterize?

[down_home]

The furnaces are propane?
You have an auto gen start?
leave the thermostat on 50. Batteries will drive the fans in furnaces a long time. When they get low the auto gen start will recharge them.
A lot of people express concern about equipment running while they are no there.
I dunno how to advise on that.
We leave our heating/cooling on when gone from home for periods of time.
Perhaps just make sure every thing is in working order and nothing blocking furnaces and so forth.
Heat from furnaces will heat the bays and tanks enough to keep from freezing
I didn't read all the post so if this covers same territory, excuse.
Check propane tank every week then maybe every two weeks if need be and of course the whole coach.
And make sure the storage facility is ok with it. And if yours gos up and is the cause for others it's your liability. Park away from others. Too much caution, just reacting to so many posts of fear of propane and furnaces etc.

[GPWayne]

After reading all the posts I did see one error. When using a compressor to blow out the water lines, set the pressure at under 40 PSI, with the line capped. Then hook up to the water inlet

That way, if you close all the valves when the compressor is hooked up to your inlet you will not blow your plumbing. (The guy next door blew five fittings loose enough to leak. What a mess. We spent weeks finding the leaks...The hard to get to fittings were not as tight as the easy locations.)

Remember to blow out the ice maker fill line. I use power jumpers to open the electric valve.

[RedJeep]

AllegroD wrote:
Let me point out that the OP said No shore power.

I am from around the Tacoma area.

Are all 6 of the batteries on the coach 12v system, or are some on the chassis 12v.

You could try the heaters and light bulb. You will need to watch your batteries. Below 12.2v and you will start shaving life off the batteries. A small space heater may not keep the interior warm enough without constant running. A 100w light will also chew up some power. I think you are going to find out that after a very few hours to days, your batteries may die.

Solar. How large is the solar? What will you do if there is 2-4 days of clouds and rain/snow? What will you do to keep panels clear of snow?

I'd dump water and blow it out. Make sure to get the pump. Pex pipe is not the freezing hazard. plastic joints, especially a low one, is the weak spot.

My FW tank is 70 gal, so if I dump a half full tank then that is 35. I would rather do that then to lose a water line. I did have a frozen ice maker line.

Six coach batteries. One motor battery. Thinking of solar in the 300-400 watt range.

Thanks!

[hanko]

you can blow your line out in about 5 minutes with an air compressor, drain the HW tank and your good to go

[AllegroD]

Let me point out that the OP said No shore power.

I am from around the Tacoma area.

Are all 6 of the batteries on the coach 12v system, or are some on the chassis 12v.

You could try the heaters and light bulb. You will need to watch your batteries. Below 12.2v and you will start shaving life off the batteries. A small space heater may not keep the interior warm enough without constant running. A 100w light will also chew up some power. I think you are going to find out that after a very few hours to days, your batteries may die.

Solar. How large is the solar? What will you do if there is 2-4 days of clouds and rain/snow? What will you do to keep panels clear of snow?

I'd dump water and blow it out. Make sure to get the pump. Pex pipe is not the freezing hazard. plastic joints, especially a low one, is the weak spot.

My FW tank is 70 gal, so if I dump a half full tank then that is 35. I would rather do that then to lose a water line. I did have a frozen ice maker line.

[PaulJ2]

Where i live it gets into the 20's but only at times as you know. I only winterize if i don't plan to use it all winter. Trailer is under a roof at my home with a small electric heater plugged in at it's low setting.
If 20 degree weather with a strong east wind is predicted i turn on the rv furnace set at 50 to help for a few days or untill it warms a bit.
Probably goes through one 5 gal propane tank the entire winter.
It depends on your particular rig i'm sure. The one i have now has heated tanks so would be less of a problem i'm sure.

[Jim]

I lived in Portland Metro for 33 years and bought my first Class A in '04. Then in '06 I traveled up to Alaska and ended up spending 5 summers and 3 winters in Fairbanks. So I had some experience living in my RV at 20°F for weeks.

I would, if I was doing this in Portland, add a shut off to the outlet of the freshwater tank, that way I could leave that tank full while being able to drain the small supply pipes. And I'd just remove the water pump, drain it, then put it back unconnected. (On my Bounder I could unscrew the couplings on the pump by hand, and it was easily accessible).

Your '08 likely has the newer PEX plumbing, (it's milky white) which is resistant to freezing. So a good draining at the lowest point in the system might be good enough. Go around the RV from the highest water point in the RV (usually the ice maker supply) and open the valves or couplings. Wouldn't hurt to also blow them out out with air. Then leave all valves open. Also pour pink stuff into all the drains. Automotive stuff weakens the seals at the tanks dump valves.

Also, you'd want to drain the water from your hot water tank. And remember to drain the inside/outside showers.

[hanko]

build a heated barn

[tonymull]

I too just keep a space heater on low or use a cube that turns it on at a certain temp. Open the lower cabinet doors etc. I don't see much point in leaving a full water tank. Drain it some to allow for expansion if it does freeze. Old trick from my Alaska days.. Use windshield wiper fluid instead of anti-freeze. Cheaper. But not if you drink out of your water tank. Often our only source of water up there was lake or creek water, so we didn't drink it without boiling. One year here in WA I had everything set up but the power went out for days and the temps dropped to almost 0. I couldn't get to the RV to do anything. Busted my hot water tank wide open, yet all the lines were fine.

[J-Rooster]

I live in the Pacific Northwest and I don't winterize! I set the inside heat in my Winnebago at 50* and turn the gas on in rare cases which the temps get below 32*. My coach has basement heat and I leave my hot water tank on also. My water tank is on full and I leave the water pump on to keep the water lines charged at all times. In rare cases where the temps get around 25* I turn my compartment lights on and open all inside cabinets.

[jorbill2or]

I live in the Portland area and never winterize .. but I have 110 avail, dump the water tank and leave my agua hot on electric at the lowest temp .. 40. since you dont have electric that changes things most of the year nothing would be needed. We. camp in virtually every month. However Portland does have a week or two that it can get down below 20 and not above freezing. This year there was no need. In the past I have bitten the bullet and winterized using the blow out method dumping the water tank and HW heater when I had one. Your only other choice is to watch the weather and turn on the furnace those few days.. Short 20deg nights and warming above freezing days (normal) I have done nothing but I wouldn't take the risk esp if you arent close by to tend to it in a hurry.

[RedJeep]

corvettekent wrote:
Don't forget to get the water out of your water pump.

Good point. How do I leave the fresh tank full and blow water out of pump?

[corvettekent]

Don't forget to get the water out of your water pump.

[jplante4]

Blowing out the lines may work for you. Prolonged periods of sub-freezing temps will freeze any standing water in the lines and traps. It sounds like Portland doesn't get that cold. The real issue with freeing water systems is not the piping, which can expand somewhat, but the fittings which just crack when frozen.

Be careful with the compressor. Set the regulator with the air flowing to 40 PSI to avoid over-pressure. Camping World has a fitting that goes from garden hose to Schrader.

Don't use auto anti-freeze anywhere. Use pink stuff or mineral oil in the traps.