Leveling?

[NekkidFish]

We do not currently own a MH, but are in the market. We have rented class C's in the past from Cruise America. When we rented, they would tell us to try and park as level as possible, or the fridge might not work. That was it. No leveling mentioned at all.

I have been reading on here, and a lot of people say that they would want an auto leveler on the wish list.

If your RV doesn't have an auto level, how do you level your RV? Do you actually carry a level on your RV to make sure it is level?

Thanks! Jules

[NekkidFish]

tenbear wrote:

NekkidFish wrote:
Thank you Cloud! Off topic question. I just joined Good Sam. How do I put that on the left side like all of you have?

It may be as simple as logging off and back on again. Also, make sure you are using the same internet provider that you told Good Sam about.

Hmmmm. Good Sam didn't ask for my internet provider.

[Tripalot]

We try to get as level as possible by moving around the site a little or placing blocks to drive up on when absolutely necessary, Another trick that works well, is to scoop out a depression in the ground if it is gravel or dirt and soft, then back or drive into it. Of course, remember to repair the depression before you leave.

[tenbear]

NekkidFish wrote:
Thank you Cloud! Off topic question. I just joined Good Sam. How do I put that on the left side like all of you have?

It may be as simple as logging off and back on again. Also, make sure you are using the same internet provider that you told Good Sam about.

[tatest]

If you are far enough off level to damage the refrigerator, you will be far enough off to feel uncomfortable walikng around inside or sleeping (unless unlevel makes you head high) and you won't be able to use a griddle on the stove because grease or eggs will run over the side. Water may not all flow to the drain in the shower pan.

I know a lot of RVers have been conditioned to obsess about level, with dire warnings about the fridge, because they can't relate the requirements of the refrigerator to real life.

Most places I'm using the RV, parking sites are level enough, and if not, usually 2 iches or less of boards and blocks under one or two wheels will get me there. Automatic levelers don't necessarily do a better job achieving "level" but they make the job easier.

For most of the people who consider leveling jacks a "must have" in a motorhome, the factor driving that choice is not leveling, rather it is stability. They want the solid support of jacks under the house so that it does not bounce around when people move, or sway when strong gusty winds blow. You will get these movements in a RV that is supported on its tires and suspension. particularly when people are heavy or move heavily. On something as lightly built as a C, you may still feel people moviing heavily when sitting on jacks. Somethimes the only real solution to a big person stomping around is to get a 30,000 to 40,000 pound motorhome.

[NekkidFish]

Thank you Cloud! Off topic question. I just joined Good Sam. How do I put that on the left side like all of you have?

[CloudDriver]

We also have the previously mentioned Hoppy Levels. After getting the refrigerator level using a torpedo level, I applied the Hoppy Levels to the outside of the refrigerator. Based on our wheelbase, we can be out of level by 7-8 inches in either direction without exceeding the 6 and 3 degree limits. When we pull into a site, DW goes back to check the levels as we move around to find the most level position. Our personal limits are 3 inches in either direction so we don't feel like we are on a slope when walking around or sleeping.

We carry three sets of the plastic leveling blocks from WalMart, but seldom need to use them. On a 2 month trip to Wyoming this past Spring we needed to use the blocks only once or twice. Our site in Bridge Bay CG in Yellowstone did require most of the three bags of blocks to get level enough for comfort.

Automatic levelers would be nice to have, but considering the few times they would be really needed, I would rather spend the $$ on gas to get to interesting places.

[NekkidFish]

Got it! I guess that is why Cruise America isn't that concerned with leveling. They just tell you to get a level spot.

[jillhop]

I am a new MH owner, and have never camped in anything before (I purchased an older used Class C to go to dog events). My unit is pretty basic, and I learned to level it very easily. I practiced in my driveway a few times, and now I'm a pro. 🙂

The thing to remember is that you are leveling the REFRIGERATOR! I bought a cheap torpedo level at the hardware store, and used it on the floor of the freezer compartment (interestingly, the freezer floor and the fridge floor are NOT the same, but I went with the freezer because it is metal and right next to the fins). You have to check the level both side-to-side AND front-to-back.

I spent quite a bit of time and effort (at least for me--about 30-45 minutes) getting the level perfect, and then I attached two small graduated levels in the cab area. One to the driver's door for front-to-back, and one low on the dash above the parking brake for side-to-side. Now, as another poster said, I can use those levels when I park to find the best spot. I am carrying a couple of 2 x 8's, 24 inches long as well as a set of the plastic lego-type leveling blocks. I generally am not camping in campgrounds, so I probably have to deal with more uneven ground than most, hence the pieces of wood.

At first I lusted after automatic levelers, but after the reading I've done here, because of the extra weight, I wouldn't want them on my smaller class C. Plus, the leveling thing is not that difficult in the manual mode.

I've only owned my rig for a couple of months, so I'm feeling good that I can actually give advice to someone else on here--I've received a lot of great help on this forum!

[Harvard]

NekkidFish wrote:
Thanks everybody. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on what might seem like a silly question. We are still learning.

It is not a silly question.

In my case, if it appears to be level (as in "is comfortable to walk about etc etc"), and we are not boondocking, then it is close enough.

[NekkidFish]

Thanks everybody. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on what might seem like a silly question. We are still learning.

[tenbear]

I use Hoppy Levels placed so I can see them while I drive. I use them to find a level spot, or close to level.

Then I use 2 X 8s with beveled ends to put under the low wheels so the Hoppy levels indicate we are close to level.

Ideally the RV should be level but if the RV feels level it is usually close enough.

[RambleOnNW]

I had used a 2-d bubble level for a number of years, and keep it in the freezer to check. Lately I've been using a Stanley bubble level app on my smartphone (free download). The bubble level app shows a numerical readout in degrees so can verify that the fridge 6 degrees front to back and 3 degrees side to side limit is not exceeded. Usually am <2 degrees either direction, greater than 2 degrees is not comfortable anyway.

[aubreym]

I carry a small level and keep it on the console. An example is the Camco 25543 T Level. You can find it at amazon.com for $5.68. It works just fine.

Aubrey W7OLY

[NekkidFish]

Hmmmm. I'm going to see if there are any videos on YouTube.

[hotbyte]

Without leveling jacks, you have 3 choices that I'm aware of...all 3 need some type of level. I have a set of the graduated levels on exterior and smaller stick-on non-graduated levels in cab.

1) Idle around site finding the most level spot for your MH. I do this and usually get "close enough" for us on the levels inside cab. Close enough is usually 1/4 or less bubble out of level.

2) Some type of purchased plastic stacking blocks or ramps leveling system. My primary blocks are the yellow Camco blocks which have lasted me several years. The graduated levels will give you how much is required. I have an additional set of the orange Lynx levelers which don't seem to be as strong. At least, that has been my experience. I only use blocks in sites where #1 doesn't work.

3) Lengths of 2X6 or 2X8 lumber stacked to get you level. This is pretty much same as #2 but using heavier cut lengths of lumber. Some like this method because they have bad experiences with the plastic blocks breaking/cracking. The lumber is heavier and, IMO, more difficult to store because they don't interlock and go into a storage bag.