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Levelling my class A coach.

gdbudlong
Explorer
Explorer
Is it recommended to make the coach "perfectly level"? i.e. when cooking on the stove top the content of the frying pan doesn't flow in any direction in the pan. (It is perfectly level.) The downside is that the water from the AC doesn't flow down the gutters to the front or the back of the coach. I may answer my own question here, but I do like to cook.....but not at the expense of water draining over slide toppers instead of the gutters. Maybe the gutters just need to be cleaned out more carefully. Your thoughts??
10 REPLIES 10

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
gdbudlong wrote:
Is it recommended to make the coach "perfectly level"? i.e. when cooking on the stove top the content of the frying pan doesn't flow in any direction in the pan. (It is perfectly level.) The downside is that the water from the AC doesn't flow down the gutters to the front or the back of the coach. I may answer my own question here, but I do like to cook.....but not at the expense of water draining over slide toppers instead of the gutters. Maybe the gutters just need to be cleaned out more carefully. Your thoughts??


gdbudlong,
As has been stated, the only REAL critical component that is in need of being as close to level as possible is, the fridge. Generally, most fridges (original RV Absorbsion type, not residential) are installed in a fairly level set of parameters to co-inside with the counter tops and more. So, basically, if you take the time to get that freezer plate in the fridge as close to level as possible, the rest of the coach, will pretty darn close.

And if the rest of the coach is that close, then your slides will have no issues extending or retracting. Although the later models of Absorbsion fridges are a tad more tolerant of being "off level" by a degree or two, I still get it as close to dead level as possible. After all, if I screw it up and damage it due to being off level 'cause I was LAZY, then guess who gets to pay for a new one, ME!

So, I'll just take the time to get it level, period.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

sdianel_-acct_c
Explorer
Explorer
The AC should drain even when you're level. Ours doesn't drain onto the slide awnings. I would clean the drain lines. We use a wet-dry vac on the bottom of the drain line, or you can get on the roof and use an air compressor hose to blow out the lines.
Lonny & Diane
2004 Country Coach Allure 33' "Big Blue"
Towing 2008 Chev Colorado 4x4
Semper Fi

summerhouse
Explorer
Explorer
I understand the same for the Residential fridge. If you're comfortable with the degree of level ness, I believe all is generally good. If my kitchen counter is level--I'm a happy camper. Everything else works good enough!
โ€œLight hearted I take to the open roadโ€ฆ Healthy, free, the world before meโ€ฆ The long brown path before me leading me wherever I choose.โ€ - Walt Whitman

ridin_with_the_
Explorer
Explorer
Just to be clear. The leveling being discussed is for a RV fridge. I think a residential fridge does not require leveling beyond make sure you don't roll out of bed level. Is that correct?
2005 Alfa See-Ya M40FD #3507
The Ranga co-piloting
Zoie and Mazi the Shih Tzus
Jordan the Pyradore
Story Bird a Green Cheek Conure

the_vfox
Explorer
Explorer
We use the flat bubble levels on the counter by the stove and one on the dinning table next to the fridge. When the bubbles touch the center circle on both, then its level enough for me. Rarely do i get both in center of the circle.

This is just my method.
Fox and Angel, fuzz ball cat and crazy Yorkie :S
Don't call me on the weekend, Im out camping.:C
2001 Itasca Horizon DP 36LD 330 Cat and all the bells and whistles
Go Blue, US Air Force(retired)25 years ๐Ÿ™‚

Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
For what it's worth, the actual specification for refrigerator leveling is not to exceed 3 degrees side-to-side, and 6 degrees front-to-back.
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

1492
Moderator
Moderator
Moved from Forum Technical Support

aslakson
Explorer
Explorer
The only critical components for leveling are your refrigerator and any slides. The reefer needs to be within a couple of degrees of dead level to keep the coolant from crystalizing - and once that happens, you buy a new reefer. As far as the slides, check your user manual. But if the rig is level enough for the refer, it's gonna be level enough for the slides.

We use a bullseye level on the kitchen counter and try to get it as close to dead center as possible. But if it's leaning a bit one way or the other, long as the bubble is withn the bullseye, we figure it's good. And if it tilts a hair toward the back, the AC runoff will go behind the slide.

al
Fulltiming since Apr 2007 in 2000 Rexhall Aerbus, towing 2012 Honda CRV. 47 of the lower 48 so far.

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've found that not all things in a motor home have the same level. Level the stove and floor might not be level
Level the floor and the bathroom door may swing
Level the counter top and the water in the shower drains to one side
Etc.

I'd level what's most important to you, they're all good enough so the refer will work which is the most important to me.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
when it rains water gets on the slide topper