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Lifting my class C

Nomadist
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a new-to-me Class C, a 1997 Four Winds, 23ft long.

Often, when I enter a gas station or other driveway, I drag my butt on the pavement. Technically, I drag the hitch (see pic below). I'm afraid this will get worse when I'm towing my 7x14 trailer that will carry my motorcycle. I also want to go onto dirt roads and perhaps a tiny bit offroad to do some boondocking.

This picture shows the problem:



And how low the hitch has been placed is making it worse:



My options seem to be:
  • add castor wheels
  • raise the vehicle permanently with a lift kit; I've identified one for $2k (installation extra) that will do the job
  • raise the vehicle on-demand with air bags
  • raise the hitch
  • a combination of the above

I'm sorting through the options and, as this is my first RV, I'm learning fast.

A few notes and tips I've learned from others:
  • the lift kit will bring up the entire rig by 5", front and back
  • the geometry of this type of vehicle does not allow for many good options (agreed! who designed this with so much cabin behind the rear wheel?); the person who mentioned this to me stressed getting castor wheels no matter what else I do
  • like the castor wheels, I've been advised to add airbags no matter what as this helps firm up the rear when loaded with the trailer; this person also suggested foregoing the lift kit and just going with the castor wheels and air bags because lifting the entire rig will make the steering less safe. This makes sense to me and I'm leaning toward this (castor wheels plus air bags, no lift kit).

But the problem is made much worse with the hitch placement. My question to the folks here is whether the hitch can be raised in some way. The visible part appears to be attached to a long bar that appears, in turn, to be attached to the frame. Is there a hitch design that isn't so low? It looks like that alone would give me four more precious inches.

Then again, with the wheels and airbags, maybe lifting the hitch isn't necessary. Perhaps I should spend only a bit of time and money since I expect this to be my training rig to be upgraded within 24 months.

Thoughts?

Edit: got the pictures in
79 REPLIES 79

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Given the age of your rig, back in the late 90's, early 2000's, it was common for motor homes to have a 3500 pound hitch. Sometime around 2005, it was increased to 5000 pounds, and as of late, it's increased to 7500 pounds. I wonder if you might benefit from a stronger-rated hitch that happens to mount with more ground clearance. If you are handy enough to unbolt the old hitch and install the new hitch yourself, the cost to purchase the hitch alone won't be expensive.

Another observation...

Studying your last picture, your rollers are mounted in "extended" fashion. I wonder if you removed the extenders, they just might still make "first contact".

Assuming your rear springs are in good condition, as a minimum to address ground clearance, I would add 2" worth of spacers on each rear spring stack, and raise your two rollers by removing their extenders.

I would save the extra spring and air bags for later (if needed) because they will stiffen the rear suspension, adding extra stress on the house and it's seam work from the rougher ride.

Regarding "improved handling". I would start with heavy duty front and rear Helwig stabilizer bars (and heavy duty shocks right up next) and evaluate from there. They will provide your "best bang for the buck". They will also significant improve the safety of your rig, most notably in mountain and canyon driving by planting all your tires more firmly on the pavement for improved control and also improved braking power.

It is highly probable that your rear drum brakes will benefit immensely from a good manual adjustment process. If handy, you can do that yourself at home. Ask me if you want the details. Properly adjusted rear drum brakes on a motor home will significantly improve brake performance. If they don't do their share of the work, the front brakes will take on more work than designed for and they will lock up. On mountain and canyon roads, if they lock up during your turns, you are heading to the cliff. If you have anti-lock brakes (a good thing) the two front tires still can't slow down so much weight efficiently. Get your 4 rear tires doing their share of the work by adjusting the distance "tight" between the rear brake shoes and drums. I speak from personal experience with our previous motor home that was built on a Toyota chassis.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would start with the lift kit but 5" seems like a lot. Is it even level as it sits? Seems low in the rear. Have you put it on a scale? You may need to increase the rear spring rating along with changing the arch to give lift. Adding a leaf would just be a patch.

Nomadist
Explorer II
Explorer II
@Lwiddis thank you.

@opnspaces thank you for the welcome and also thank you for posting the pictures. I went back to the original post and tried it myself to learn how to do it. But I still appreciate your gesture.

I'll definitely go more on an angle to lessen the problem.

I just checked underneath and I'm discovering some things. I bought the rig from a dealer who accepted it as a trade-in from the original owner. I never got to talk to the owner.

But it's clear that the owner towed something because the rig came with the hitch and he bought the V10.

Actually looking underneath showed me several interesting things:
1. it already has castor wheels. See picture below. I haven't had a reason to look behind the rear skirt and they are invisible looking directly at the rear because of the skirt. That's niceโ€”one less thing to install.
2. it does have leaf springs and they are mounted atop the axle. Thus, it appears I can put a spacer there and an extra spring.

Peering underneath showed me the castor wheels:



So, given that I still want extra height, it seems the new short list in rough order of preference is:
1. install a spacer
2. install another leaf spring
3. install a rear stabilizer from Hellwig
4. install new, stronger shocks (but only if necessary)
5. install air bags
6. install front stabilizer
7. install a front-and-rear lift kit

It seems to me doing 1 + 2 + 3 get me really close to what I want. If not, I replace the shocks and add the air bags and front stabilizer. It seems that the full lift kit (with its high cost) isn't necessary at all.

Did I miss anything?

It seems likely this will give the rear 3 extra inches. The rear will be higher than the front but that shouldn't cause a problem, correct?

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Be careful with a whole lift kit, because you will raise the center of gravity and absolutely kill the handling and also you will have increased height and potential clearance issues with overpasses.

Easy solution: 1) enter/exit all slopes at 45* angle and 2) add airbags with built in compressor and cab switch so you can dial in extra clearance when you need it.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
"...does it simply prevent the rear from lowering or can you get some additional height, too?"

Air bags do not add weight capacity...they level/raise the RV.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
theoldwizard1 wrote:
ron.dittmer wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I recently redid the rear springs and added a leaf--one leaf was actually broken.
A broken leaf spring is certainly something to check for, but you bring up an interesting subject of adding another leaf per rear corner to get more lift.

Simplest and cheapest solution !


I did the shocks as well and the combo of springs and extra leaf improved the ride. I already had air tabs and they help too!
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Here's your pictures

Click For Full-Size Image.

Click For Full-Size Image.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Hi Nomadist welcome to the forums. \
One problem you're going to find is that any added wheels or rollers will further decrease your ground clearance.

Have you tried entering driveways at a 30 - 45 degree angle instead if straight on? This may buy you some clearance as one wheel can start lifting the coach before the hitch in the center hits.

Look under at the mounting point of the springs to the rear axle. If you have leaf springs and if they sit on top of the axle you can easily add a spacer to gain some height.

Air bags in the rear will help as well/ But make sure they are ones that you can adjust from the drivers seat.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

Nomadist
Explorer II
Explorer II
IAMICHABOD wrote:


The buttons will not let you post pictures but...

***Link Removed*** and it will walk you thru the process,good luck and welcome to the Forum.


Thank you, IAMICHABOD, I'll give that a whirl.

rjstractor
Nomad
Nomad
pianotuna wrote:
I added a single roller which fits the hitch.


I did the same. From what I understand, the castors can easily overstress the rear of a frame rail if one contacts the ground. The downside to either the roller or the castors is that when they contact the ground it starts to unload the rear axle, which can lead to losing traction if the surface is at all slippery. Your rig seems to have a really lousy wheelbase to length ratio. I wonder how it will handle with a trailer in tow.
2017 VW Golf Alltrack
2000 Ford F250 7.3

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
ron.dittmer wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I recently redid the rear springs and added a leaf--one leaf was actually broken.
A broken leaf spring is certainly something to check for, but you bring up an interesting subject of adding another leaf per rear corner to get more lift.

Simplest and cheapest solution !

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
I've raised garage door openings.

Maybe I should have said that some garage door opens can be raised.

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
I recently redid the rear springs and added a leaf--one leaf was actually broken.
A broken leaf spring is certainly something to check for, but you bring up an interesting subject of adding another leaf per rear corner to get more lift.

Our particular garage door clearance would not allow for a taller rig, but if that opening was tall enough, I would consider adding one leaf per rear corner, or better yet, a spacer per corner. A spacer increases lift without increasing harshness of ride. Spacers are commonly used in the RV industry to level a rig that is heavier in one rear corner than the other. It makes sense to use them to increase rear ground clearance in permanent fashion.

Gooma
Explorer
Explorer
Castor wheels only DECREASE the clearance.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I added a single roller which fits the hitch.

I upgraded the wheels and use taller tires which gained me some mileage

I recently redid the rear springs and added a leaf--one leaf was actually broken.

I added timbrins.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.