It's not a fuse. That would be too easy. I got a wiring diagram from Fleetwood. Those lights are on the 604 circuit, a yellow wire. The problem now is getting to that wire. I took the switch by the door that controls the fluorescent light above the steps out to see if there were any wires not connected. It only came out 1/2" so I could see nothing. It would be nice if Fleetwood would build any cabinets that have wiring in them with access panels.
The "clunks" were/are from relays in the battery control center. The fluorescent ceiling light should be part of the coach, not part of the "engine" side of things. Seems like all 3 of those would be on the same circuit...so yeah, fuse sure makes sense...
Keep us posted.
Jim
2005 Pace Arrow 36D Very Understanding Wife 1 Boxer ๐ 3 Maine Coon cats
I was referring to the panel in the lower compartment on the 2006 37C. But to blow my mind further, today I got in the MH, put the key in and Lo and Behold everything worked normally to include starting on the regular starting circuit. My only problems now are the fog lights don't work and I think the battery disconnect switches do not seem to work. If I rememeber correctly, I think I use to hear a kind of "clunk" when I pressed them before. Like I said in a post several years ago, I don't think any two of these were made the same. As I fopund pout with my wiring diagrams from Fleetwood, they didn't match.
I think he means the fuse panel below the dash on the drivers side. I was looking at that panel myself as I have 3 lighting units that have no power now but have worked previously. The tube lite on the ceiling at the front of the coach, the reading lite on the drivers side and the puck lites above the rocker/recliner are all without power. Since Fleetwood has no wiring diagrams I am a loss as to where to start to look for the cause. Has anyone else had a similar situation?
After returning to the States from almost two years out of the country, I have been getting our PA ready for the road. I installed a new battery for the engine and it started up and ran perfectly. However, I left it running and was installing the house batteries and I accidently touched the edge of the battery compartment and the engine immediately shut down. (I know--dumb) I finished installing the batteries and restarted the engine with the alternate switch. Everything runs fine. And I found one five amp fuse in the lower box that was blown. I replaced it and that made no difference on the engine not starting on the regular engine circuit. Seems like there might be fuse somewhere I can't find or an inline fuse between the battery and the regular starting circuit. Everything else in the coach runs normally. Any ideas?
sawellman wrote: Has anyone upgraded your air conditioners? Camping in the heat this weekend I am finding that mine dont really cool my RV that well and would like to upgrade.
I don't think upgrading your air-conditioners likely solve your problem. We had a similar problem in 2006 when temperatures were extremely high 100 to 115 on a trip to Memphis/St. Louis. We actually burned up our shore plug and had to replace it on that trip. Our unit is only 30amp so now in extreme heat when the air-conditioners run non-stop we only run one of the air conditioning units at a time and also run the fridge on gas instead of electric. We have thought about rewiring one of the air-conditioners to a separate circuit/plug so that we could plug it in by it self and thus use the 30amp and the 20amp plugs in most campground hook-up electric boxes. We looked into upgrading to 50amps but thought it wasn't worth all the effort.
Meme
2013 Winnebago Tour-GD 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel
Has anyone upgraded your air conditioners? Camping in the heat this weekend I am finding that mine dont really cool my RV that well and would like to upgrade.
Lobstah wrote: Ready Brake here. Very little work required on the car, it's a steel cable that runs from a lever on their receiver, through the front of the car, around the engine compartment, through the firewall, and clamps to the brake pedal. As your MH slows down, the car pushes forward on the receiver, which in turn pulls the cable and the brake pedal. Very little to break, and very simple system.
Jim
Just completed a 5,000 mile trip from TX to AK with a Ready Brake system. It worked great! I did find that I had to allow a little more slack in the cable than the installation instructions indicate to allow for the frost heaves.
Lobstah wrote: On a different note... For the 3yrs we've owned our 36D, one of the things that has bugged me is the glass cabinet doors and the way they rattle when going down the road. No matter how tightly I pushed those silly rubber retaining strips into the slots, they still loosened up and the glass would rattler. Finally had some time on the last trip to pull all the doors off, remove the strips, and apply a healthy bead of silicone caulk all the way around the glass. The trip home, over rough Mass highways and bridge joints was MUCH more quiet. Easy project, huge payoff.
Jim
I took the glass out and replaced them with mirrors so the DW could use the cabinet for food storage. The mirrors were thicker than the glass and worked well with the retaining strips. bob g
Jim Bakker wrote: Smoke from a nearby forest fire caused my CO sensor to go off last night.The alarm wouldn't stop sounding, and the crimp connections prevented easy disconnect, so I took the brute force approachโcutting the wires. That stopped the alarm, but it also disabled the propane alarm and the tank sensors. Does a CO sensor have to be wired into the circuit? Or did I blow a fuse? If so, where is the fuse located? All the coach fuses in the panel cabinet seem to be OK, and besides none of the labels seem to apply. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Sounds like a similar problem we had a few years ago and it took us quite a while to rectify the problem. The Smoke/CO alarm in our bedroom went off one night for no reason and pressing the reset did nothing. We ended up just yanking it off the ceiling in the middle of the night so that we wouldn't wake up the whole campground. We never did find the source of the malfunction but eventually found some writing on the smoke/CO alarm that indicated they actually have a life span and that ours should have been replaced a few years ago. I found an identical one on the internet by searching for the make and model number. There was one version that was hard wired and had a battery and one model with just a battery. Make sure that you get the right one because they look identical in the pictures. we need the one that was hardwired and had a battery. We had to spice the wires since we had ripped it off the ceiling but it worked great. I do think that there were some instructions about pressing a reset button or doing something else special during installation to get it installed properly. If this step wasn't followed the new unit beeped like the battery was bad. Seems to me the hard wired replacement unit was less that $35 that our local RV store wanted for the battery only unit. Good Luck.
2013 Winnebago Tour-GD 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel
Jim@HiTek wrote: another place to check would be inside that big box in or near the battery compartment.
Found two 3-amp fuses labeled LP detector in the Battery Control Center. Don't want to mess around in there without a fuse puller, but I'll stop somewhere along the way tomorrow and buy fuses and a puller.
