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need engine service on Class A around Wichita KS area

victorymcjohn
Explorer
Explorer
fairly new to the RV'ing and we have been rehabbing a 1981 El Dorado Monarch with a Dodge 360 engine. I am having trouble getting a grip on a fuel system issue. It runs decent for the most part but while out on the highway it will hesitate, backfire, lose power and run rough off and on. I have to then switch on an electric fuel pump to smooth it out and get back to highway speed. I have changed the mechanical fuel pump and 4 fuel filters,maybe helped a little. Anybody know of a garage to take this Class A motorhome to around the central Kansas area? thanks
9 REPLIES 9

jyrostng
Explorer
Explorer
Someone makes a oil pressure switch to turn on that fuel pump only when the motors running.
2000 F53 Southwind 32v

jtessnm
Explorer
Explorer
Yes. Full time = on whenever the engine is running.To avoid vapor lock, fuel starvation, use all the time. JT
Do not confuse me with facts, my mind is made up.
There is a difference between stupidity and ignorance: ignorance can be cured.

victorymcjohn
Explorer
Explorer
good info guys, appreciate it. let me ask.....would it be "normal" to have to run the add-on electric fuel pump while cruising highway speeds on this old of a rig? thanks

jtessnm
Explorer
Explorer
The early motorhomes with the Dodge 360 and 440 had problems with the fuel delivery system. The mechanical pump can not handle the low quality fuel now being produced allowing the engine to vapor lock. The best solution is install a full time electric pump as close to the tank as possible, in addition to checking the entire fuel system as JimM68 stated.
Do not confuse me with facts, my mind is made up.
There is a difference between stupidity and ignorance: ignorance can be cured.

donhoward49
Explorer
Explorer
Google "RV service reviews" for a shop close to you

victorymcjohn
Explorer
Explorer
certainly appreciate all of the input. hopefully I can spend some serious time this weekend making some progress !

Fleet_Man
Explorer
Explorer
We had a late 70's Class C with the Dodge 360 and had our share of run ability problems. I replaced the automatic choke mechanism on the carburetor with a manual choke and that solved it for us. Have you considered that area of the fuel/air system.
2007 Winnebago Journey 34H
Toad, '08 Ford Taurus X
Blue OX, Aventa
US Gear UBS

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
JimM68 wrote:
I know nothing of shops in that area, but....

As you've covered the easy stuff, I'm thinking your problem is a fuel line.
RV fuel lines will be mostly metal, with some rubber sections.
A rig that old, the metal will be steel, not stainless, and prone to rust.
Any rubber sections may be just plain shot, collapse under suction, or just be coming apart inside.
The other culprit could be the sock on the pickup inside the tank. This is usually part of the sending unit, and may or may not be accessible without dropping the tank.

Start with replacing all the rubber parts of the fuel line.
If there is a return line, ditto for it.
While you are under there, inspect all the metal lines. Look for rusty areas, particularly at sharp bends. Be careful here, what is a rusty air (suction) leak could easily become an active fuel leak if disturbed, look but don't touch until/unless you are ready to replace.

While going to stainless lines seems the hot setup, the stuff is horribly hard to bend and even harder to flair. I suggest sticking with steel, much easier to work with, and will last another twenty years no problem.


Great answer - and really good advice - what you will need if unable to do it yourself is an older Dodge mechanic someone who understands the beast you are working on, before we (Old company) went to all diesel we had a couple Dodges - once you get them running they will run till they die but once you start to have an issue, if you don't find the problem you will always be looking over your shoulder.

While you are under there take a look at the Metal Brake lines they are prone to the same rust - Just go ahead and replace them too.

BOL,
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

JimM68
Explorer
Explorer
I know nothing of shops in that area, but....

As you've covered the easy stuff, I'm thinking your problem is a fuel line.
RV fuel lines will be mostly metal, with some rubber sections.
A rig that old, the metal will be steel, not stainless, and prone to rust.
Any rubber sections may be just plain shot, collapse under suction, or just be coming apart inside.
The other culprit could be the sock on the pickup inside the tank. This is usually part of the sending unit, and may or may not be accessible without dropping the tank.

Start with replacing all the rubber parts of the fuel line.
If there is a return line, ditto for it.
While you are under there, inspect all the metal lines. Look for rusty areas, particularly at sharp bends. Be careful here, what is a rusty air (suction) leak could easily become an active fuel leak if disturbed, look but don't touch until/unless you are ready to replace.

While going to stainless lines seems the hot setup, the stuff is horribly hard to bend and even harder to flair. I suggest sticking with steel, much easier to work with, and will last another twenty years no problem.
Jim M.
2008 Monaco Knight 40skq, moho #2
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