Question about older model Roadtrek

[SublimeRT]

Hello,
I'm new here so please pardon if my forum knowledge and etiquette falter.
I have the opportunity to purchase a 1995 Dodge Roadtrek 170 Popular. It is a great looking little class b but the age terrifies me. The mileage is in the 90's and I know these have a lifespan of over 250,000 but I can't help but wonder if I am going to buy into something that won't last for years. Is it worth the trouble? I would love to have something I can personalize and update slowly. Does anyone have an older RT and knowledge about what I may be getting into? Any information big or small is welcome!
I should also state that this would be a daily driver.
Thank you

[SublimeRT]

I apologize for my silence. My entire house came down with the flu. I will read over the responses and try to catch up.

[bsinmich]

I have a '95 Roadtrek 190P. I bought it from a tall neighbor who could not fit the bed. It had 87K miles then and I paid $12,500 for it. I got every paper from the original sale to the last service work with it. It has been great and now has 93K on the odometer. I sure don't think I would use mine as a daily driver. I get 16.5-17.5 mpg when on the road.

[GaryKH]

I think that if you bought this unit, after getting a mechanic to go through it, then you will be happy with it. We have a 1996 Roadtrek & after having 4 camper vans in the past, we find this one is the best! As others have mentioned, the fit & finish on these is great (& i used to be a finishing Carpenter). If you can allow that certain things will need to be replaced/updated & budget for this, then it will not come as a surprise when you do the job. But, for the most part, these things will just keep on going. Just think of all the money you will be saving & that'll put a smile on your face. Enjoy!

[mkguitar]

"Salvage Title" means there IS a safety/condition question mark.

It will also affect any resale value- and may be difficult ( or more costly) to insure...may affect titling in some States.
you may want to call your insurer first and ask

if you decide to go for it- find a local body shop or community college who have a computerized frame machine- they can ensure that the chassis is square- if not square- decline it.

a rear end accident can affect the propane tank and genny- someone really needs to get under there and see if all that stuff is ok.

mike

[PSW]

I notice in your signature that you just joined this forum. Are you new to RVing in general or just to this forum and Class Bs?

You might consider that if this is your first experience, you don't want to do anything that can be avoided that would cause it to be a bad experience. There are a lot of great, used units out there and patience is required to find them. It is not unusual for folks to travel pretty good distances to find their baby.

We owned a 1996 Roadtrek 190P for years and it probably created more great memories for us than any other RV we have owned and we have been owning them for thirty five years. That little Dodge 318 in most of the older Dodge RTs is a bullet proof engine. Maybe you need to just pause and think about this a bit. By the way, I truly find better fit and finish and quality in the older rigs than the new ones in many respects. The older Roadtreks had incredibly well designed and built cabinetry and finish.

Paul

[SublimeRT]

I just received this email from the seller:

"The title says rebuilt because it was rear ended two owners before me.
The insurance co probably deemed that it would cost more to repair it
than the book value because it was already more than 10 years old; so
they probably paid the owner at the time the book value. The insurance
co then probably sold it to a rebuilder who repaired the damage to the
rear end and then sold it. After I bought it I had the rear end (axles
and differential) brought up to new condition by Dodge. I can show you
the receipts. It is now in good shape mechanically
The title says rebuilt because it was rear ended two owners before me.
The insurance co probably deemed that it would cost more to repair it
than the book value because it was already more than 10 years old; so
they probably paid the owner at the time the book value. The insurance
co then probably sold it to a rebuilder who repaired the damage to the
rear end and then sold it. After I bought it I had the rear end (axles
and differential) brought up to new condition by Dodge. I can show you
the receipts. It is now in good shape mechanically. You inquired about the steering it is slightly loose but Dodge said it is safe to drive"

I assume this is a deal killer? I have never been accused of being a mechanic ...but this sounds a bit frightening.

[SublimeRT]

Thank you for all of the information! I do love the sturdiness of the older models. I am pleased to hear that older ones are being used (with little concern) for distance travel.
This seller has kept most records which is a plus when considering future needs. I also noted the things that were mentioned in your responses and added them to the things I need to address. I'm also considering an inspection and assume that I should find an RV shop to handle that.
The price certainly can't be beat compared to the newer models. And, I do like the fact that I would have more pocket change to customize things to my liking.
I do need to clarify my idea of a daily driver. My vehicle can sit for a week without movement. I am close to my daughter's school and walking is an option on most days. But, I do understand what everyone is saying about the stops and starts. That is something to consider as I want this RT to give us many years of use.
I guess I just needed to hear that 1995 is not such a terrifying number when considering a purchase.
I thank you all for your wisdom and time!
And thank you for pointing out the FAQ...I will read it tomorrow when I have a peaceful moment.

[arm]

I have similar experience to thriftydutch. We have a 1996 RT with 94,000 miles. Bought it 3 years ago with 46,000 miles on it, but 17 years old. I knew it would need brakes, tires, shocks, idler arm, 4 wheel alignment but everything else was great. No rust but paint a little old. I allowed about $3500 for bringing it up to like "new drive train" and able to travel anywhere without worry. Went a little over budget ($4300 total) We travel 6 - 7 months a year, so for that time it is a daily driver. I runs great...18.5 Mile/Imp gal...has been flawless for three years. Hope to run for 4 or 5 more. I drool over the newer ones but I have less than 20% of the price invested in this one, but go all the same places the new ones go, with the same features, and just as comfortable as my friends 2013 RT.
If you can find a GOOD used one for a reasonable price, and mechanically sound, it should last for several years, even if it is used a a daily driver(which does reduce life expectancy) but should still be good for 200,000 miles +.

Good luck.

[thriftydutch]

I have a 1990 Dodge LER 170 that I bought with 80k miles on the clock. The only thing I have had repaired was a transmission rebuild at 88k miles costing me $2500.00 with oil cooler. That is the only serious repair I have had outside of regular maintenance. Paid $5000.00 for the RV. It is now at 150k and running like a top. Sure beats paying $100k or more. Used has always worked for me in the RV or past cars.
The fridge in mine is 26 years old and is working fine. Will be replacing the converter charger soon. Cost $127.00 Can you imagine how long you have to keep a $100k unit to get the same bang for your buck.

[mkguitar]

some use these for daily drivers- I wouldn;t.


they weigh as much as a truck...each stop requires alot of braking force, each start from a stop requires alot of motorvation.

each jounce and pothole will try to remove the cabinetry from the walls

that kind of use will wear out the brakes, suspension and put alot more strain on the motor, tranny and rear end than if driven for 500 miles at a stretch at a steady speed.

mike

[TinyoneRV]

FWIW, I believe these things run up to 250,000 miles because they are not used as daily drivers. Every time they're started, the are run until the engine is hot, very little stop and go driving. Start using one as a daily driver, especially locally, and not allowing the engine to get hot and you'll cut the life of the vehicle.

[My_Roadtrek]

Make sure to read the FAQ"s at the top of the Class B home page