Running a 50amp line to plug into

[mike_brez]

I recently got rid of a hot tub on my deck that saw no use.
I have a 50 amp breaker for it in my panel. I checked the two hot legs at disconnect were hot tub was and have 240v,120v from each hot to ground and 0v from neutral to ground. Picked up some wire and a rv outdoor power outlet a 50 amp 14-50R.
Pluged in my progressive industries surge protector and it said all was good. Pluged into rv and blows breaker at panel.
I'm going to call my electrician buddy but looking for suggestions.
Here is a pic of the breaker that blows in the panel. It has a test button on it could that be the cause? To dark outside for any others.

[CA_Traveler]

rhagfo,

Read the first post. Since the circuit is now for a RV and no longer used for a hot tub it's not a code violation.

[rhagfo]

sgip2000 wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

mike brez wrote:

enblethen wrote:
GFI breaker.
Disconnect the neutral from breaker and connect it to the neutral buss. Disconnect smaller neutral from breaker that goes to neutral buss.

I'm pretty sure doing this will solve the problem. I'm going to grab a different breaker without the gfi so I have it when electrican comes.

Would likely solve the problem, it now is not code compliant as the you have defeated the function of the GFI!

GFCI not required for an RV receptacle.

What I am referring to is you have changed the function of the breaker which would be a violation of NEC.

[CA_Traveler]

mike brez wrote:

With that being said just out of courisity if the dryer and rv have the same readings at the female end I take it that the single 240v for the dryer and the split 120v lines for the rv it is all in the wiring on the inside the dryer or in the rv panel?

A 120/240V 50A RV plug is not the same as the older 240V 3 wire dryer plug. The 50A RV circuit is the same as newer 120/240V 4 wire dryer but the dryer circuit may be less than 50A.

The 20A and 50A RV plugs are in fact common household plugs. The 30A plug is unique to RVs.

You definitely want the 120/240V 50A RV plug. You can also have a 50A GFCI on that circuit. If the GFCI trips then you'll need to resolve the rigs ground fault. 50A GFCIs are more common for pools, spas, etc.

[mike_brez]

OP here, My electrican is coming out next week or so to do a fire inspection for me at that time he will come over to wire rv.

With that being said just out of courisity if the dryer and rv have the same readings at the female end I take it that the single 240v for the dryer and the split 120v lines for the rv it is all in the wiring on the inside the dryer or in the rv panel?

[John___Angela]

And just a heads up, many electric vehicle EVSE''s (home charge station) have standard 14-50 plugs. Might be handy if you buy an EV regardless of brand.

[byronlj]

Scottg,
You are incorrect stating that all hot tubs are 4 wire systems. I know. I have had both 3 and 4 wire. Do a google search.
Dave

[Jim]

Tom N wrote:
50 AMP RV WIRING



50 AMP HOT TUB/RANGE/WELDER WIRING



NOTE: THEY ARE IDENTICAL


Tom, W3TLN

I know you're only passing on a picture, Tom, but did you notice the mistake?

It's funny that even the Electric Doctor can't get it right. Oh, yeah, the drawings are mostly correct as is the conclusion, but the 220 Volt shown on the meter screens is wrong. It's 240 Volt. This is what is so confusing to people, when even the supposed electrical experts list things wrong.

Heh. I just found it funny...

EDIT: Didn't read the posts between this initial posting and the last one so I missed the fact that the 220V vs 240V discrepancy had already been discussed. Oh well.

[mowermech]

CA Traveler wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

time2roll wrote:
That picture seems to have a problem with addition.
'electric doctor photos' needs to take an actual measurement instead of just creating graphics from stray images.

I don't know what math you are using, but the picture is correct.

His math and mine is good. 120+120=240. Plus to be more complete add a ground to neutral which will be 0V.

Plus add a note that the actual voltages can vary.

Very true!
Some areas of the country will have 110/220.
Some will have 115/230. This is what many appliances are rated for.
And, some will have 120/240.
Those voltages may vary anywhere from plus or minus 1 to plus or minus 5 VAC.

However, for those who wish to install a 30 amp RV outlet, be advised that even though the outlet and plug look exactly like old-fashioned 220 VAC equipment, the RV is wired for 115 VAC! That is; L1, Neutral, and Ground.

[sgip2000]

rhagfo wrote:

mike brez wrote:

enblethen wrote:
GFI breaker.
Disconnect the neutral from breaker and connect it to the neutral buss. Disconnect smaller neutral from breaker that goes to neutral buss.

I'm pretty sure doing this will solve the problem. I'm going to grab a different breaker without the gfi so I have it when electrican comes.

Would likely solve the problem, it now is not code compliant as the you have defeated the function of the GFI!

GFCI not required for an RV receptacle.

[CA_Traveler]

OP, It's also entirely possible that the rig has a ground fault. Have you plugged into a 20A GFCI plug and turned various equipment on/off to check for a ground fault ie tripped GFCI? You have a 20A GFCI CB in your panel - what is it connected to?

We should all do that check periodically.

[time2roll]

rhagfo wrote:

time2roll wrote:
That picture seems to have a problem with addition.
'electric doctor photos' needs to take an actual measurement instead of just creating graphics from stray images.

I don't know what math you are using, but the picture is correct.

Why do they lose 20 volts L1 to L2 vs each to neutral?
See the actual readings posted above.

[ScottG]

rhagfo wrote:

mike brez wrote:

enblethen wrote:
GFI breaker.
Disconnect the neutral from breaker and connect it to the neutral buss. Disconnect smaller neutral from breaker that goes to neutral buss.

I'm pretty sure doing this will solve the problem. I'm going to grab a different breaker without the gfi so I have it when electrican comes.

Would likely solve the problem, it now is not code compliant as the you have defeated the function of the GFI!

FOr a 50A outside outlet, it is code compliant to not have a GFCI.

[CA_Traveler]

rhagfo wrote:

time2roll wrote:
That picture seems to have a problem with addition.
'electric doctor photos' needs to take an actual measurement instead of just creating graphics from stray images.

I don't know what math you are using, but the picture is correct.

His math and mine is good. 120+120=240. Plus to be more complete add a ground to neutral which will be 0V.

Plus add a note that the actual voltages can vary.

[rhagfo]

mike brez wrote:

enblethen wrote:
GFI breaker.
Disconnect the neutral from breaker and connect it to the neutral buss. Disconnect smaller neutral from breaker that goes to neutral buss.

I'm pretty sure doing this will solve the problem. I'm going to grab a different breaker without the gfi so I have it when electrican comes.

Would likely solve the problem, it now is not code compliant as the you have defeated the function of the GFI!

[ScottG]

Previous posts about number of wires is totally wrong. Your spa connection is just like the 50A connection an RV uses with the exception of having a GFCI. It has two hots, a neutral and a ground.
Further, those that say your spa was 240 only are wrong. The heater is 240 and the controls and any add-ons are 120.
You can run it with or without that GFCI (if it works) - it's up to you.