The fridge won't work

[learningacrossa]

I just set up at a campground and my Norcold won't turn on with electric power. The LP side doesn't work properly so I just always ran it on AC side. Today after I plugged in it keeps trying to turn on with LP. In my head that means it doesn't realize I have electricity. Any ideas?

[Jim]

You haven't mentioned a converter problem before now so don't know what you're referring to...did you mean refer problem?

Yea, the refer does need both 12V and 120 to run on shore power and if your converter isn't charging the batteries, it would tend to work erratically.

Thing to do is find out if the converter is working, just take a digital meter and measure the voltage across the house and chassis batteries. Should be 13V+. Many older rigs don't have a provision for changing the chassis battery while on shore power though and most people add a float charger to do that. Around $20.

You might find an Aux Start or Emerg Start switch on the dash. That jumps the house and chassis batteries for starting up the rig, but first measure the voltage and see if the converter is working. If it isn't you'll need a jump.

BTW, converters can be on GFI's circuits so make sure that it's getting power.

[learningacrossa]

Now an update to the update. I have been working without a fridge for 8 days and it has been fine because the weather has been really cool in N. Cali. We are done with this trip in another week. I noticed 2 days ago that my data center said my house batteries were low. I tried started the MH yesterday and the engine battery is also dead. Would/could my converter problem be th3e cause of my batteries going dead?

[vector]

Did the residential replacement with a 10 ft^3 Magic Chef model from Home Depot three years ago and never looked back. The refrigerator has thinner walls, better insulation, a colder freezer, auto defrost, and more efficient interior storage space. Food and drinks stay cold while we are OTR even if the door is opened once or twice. Previously frozen blue ice blocks help there as well. I use a remote read thermometer to keep tabs on the inside temperature. If it gets too warm I just run the generator for 30 minutes. That cools the food and exercises the genset as well. I read the skimpy manual that came with the refrigerator that warned against putting a residential model in an RV. Figured that caveat had more to do with the install than the actual use. Refrigerators just sit in a house and are free to roll out, but must be firmly secured in an RV. I rebuilt the cabinet in the RV and anchored the new one so it will not wander. The residential model does much better in humid conditions and will not ice up. Installed a drip tube to carry any condensate down and away from the RV rather than having it accumulate in the plastic pan. It gets pretty sticky in south Texas. The cost was a convincing factor: $300 rather than $1300. I'd do it again in a heartbeat!

[learningacrossa]

No, the corrosion on the heater is pretty bad. In fact there is corrosion all over the back of this fridge. He did try and see how easy it was to move inside the sleeve and it didn't budge and considering the drama I have had with this fridge, I am really ready for the simplicity of plugging it in and being done with it.

[Gjac]

learningacrossameric wrote:
Well here is the update. The heater shorted out causing the 5amp use to pop. The heater shorted because I have electrical problem with my converter. (I brought out a mobile RV guy after I popped the second 5amp fuse.) The refrigerator is as vintage as my RV and I knew it was going to need replacing or some serious maintenance. I am now thinking about just yanking it out and replacing it with a residential fridge. I will do very little if any boonedocking so running on batteries is not a concern of mine. Looking for opinions on this subject and any red flags that I need to be aware of. I know about the size limitations as far as getting it inside. Has anyone done this and if so do you like it?

Did he replace the shorted out heater and does it now work on electric? If not replacing the heater is about $30.

[Jim]

I've not done it myself but I've read around 50 threads by people who have and I'd say the vast majority of them love the residential.

I believe that it's Samsung who sells several models that would fit different RVs, and don't lose the warranty if installed in a RV.

Many people don't even bother with an inverter, which might be needed if you drive several hours then try to boondock. Seems they keep things cold during a long days drive. If you're traveling from RV park to RV park, and don't open it to often, it should work fine keeping things cold on the road without an inverter.

[learningacrossa]

Well here is the update. The heater shorted out causing the 5amp use to pop. The heater shorted because I have electrical problem with my converter. (I brought out a mobile RV guy after I popped the second 5amp fuse.) The refrigerator is as vintage as my RV and I knew it was going to need replacing or some serious maintenance. I am now thinking about just yanking it out and replacing it with a residential fridge. I will do very little if any boonedocking so running on batteries is not a concern of mine. Looking for opinions on this subject and any red flags that I need to be aware of. I know about the size limitations as far as getting it inside. Has anyone done this and if so do you like it?

[desobelman]

There is a Service Order out on the Norcold Refrigerators about this issue. There is a switch INSIDE the fridge that sometimes trips and must be reset. Go to Norcold's website and check in the tech section, or call a local RV repair shop.

Happy Trails! :W

Darryl

[Gjac]

learningacrossameric wrote:
It does have a switch to go from auto to gas. When I put it on auto it immediately goes to LP. It doesn't even recognize that the power is on. That is what is so strange.

I would check the connector that goes from the eyebrow on the front top of refer to the control board. On mine it is a white connector about 1 in x 1/4 in. Try removing it and cleaning both the male and female side.

[Blaster_Man]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
...And if you have AC power at outlet and the AC circuit breaker is not tripped and you have lights on fridge panel.....

Check the 5a Fuse in lower control power module.
In outside compartment...

Good suggestion, I have a 10 amp fuse that must be okay for the refer to work on AC power.

[wbrowning]

I would suggest you take picture of circuit board it helped me when I had to unplug wires to change fuses. which was only a temporary fix I finally had to change board. Mine was acting the same as yours. Who ever thought going on vacation would be so much fun.

[Crazy_Ray]

CLEAN it. JMO

[learningacrossa]

Thank you everyone. I have to head back to the MH and check all this out. (No WIFI at the site) Thank you all for the rapid response, it really means a lot. I will update tomorrow.

[Jim]

Many RVs have GFI outlets that are strung to different outlets. Check your GFIs, perhaps one is blown and the refer isn't getting AC. Mine is wired to the bathroom GFI.