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Water pump

str8shooter_mn
Explorer
Explorer
Pulled into RV park and all three took a shower. Pump worked fine. Later, noticed light was out for switch. No voltage to pump when switching switch. Fuse panel on lower foot of bed frame, all fuses good. Checked breakers. Ok.any other suggestions appreciated. Pump was replaced 2 years ago with better pump. No problem trouble shooting the old one
12 REPLIES 12

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
First. Light out means it's not the fuse at the pump.

Question about those switches. are they ON/OFF toggles or are their three position spring loaded return to center momentary switches that feed signals to a control board somewhere..... Yup.

On my RV there were two 3-way switches (SPDT) and if no electronics between battery and pump.. just Fuse----Switch======Switch----Pump

(The two wires between the switches if both switches select the same wire pump is on. they are called 3-way because they have 3 connectors on the switch)

But another system is Fuse----Control board---pump
And a whole bunch of switches to the control board.. I've not seen one. but read about it.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

str8shooter_mn
Explorer
Explorer
Here again! Turns out it wasn't the water pump control itself. It was a lousy crimp on connector on ground wire. Replaced all 4 connectors on wires to control
Old control is good. Now have spare I'll probably never need.

str8shooter_mn
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I believe I've found the issue. Appears to be a bad multi point switch. Also called water pump controller.
Mfg by Precision Circuits Inc, part number 00-10027-000

str8shooter_mn
Explorer
Explorer
I'm well versed on how to use a multimeter as I worked as a service engineer for over 40 years for a medical imaging company.
All the fuses I can find have checked out good with the meter. Perhaps a latching relay that is activated/deactivated. The 3 different switches are momentary switches. The water pump light is supposed to come on and stay on until and one of the 3 switches is pressed, then the light goes out and there is no longer a light and no power to pump. Anyone have any clue as to where the latching relay would be located if there is one?

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
opnspaces wrote:
...
...

Second is you said all fuses are good but did not say if that was a visual or a meter check. If you are not aware the fuses have two windows located at the end of each blade where you can check that current if flowing through without unplugging the fuse. Set your meter on Volts DC and at the fuse panel poke the positive lead into the window and the negative lead into a ground point. Check both windows on each fuse. You should get the same voltage on each.


You can probe across the fuse. If it measures a voltage the fuse is blown. If it measures 0V or close to it the fuse is good.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
There's usually a fuse right at the pump - reqd by manufacturer for warranty. Could be that one blew and the one in your panel is still fine.
Now, if that's the case, why did the fuse blow..

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Hopefully the good thing is it's most likely a bad switch since there is no power at the pump. Two tings I can think of.

First make sure all switches are all the way up or down and none stuck in the middle.

Second is you said all fuses are good but did not say if that was a visual or a meter check. If you are not aware the fuses have two windows located at the end of each blade where you can check that current if flowing through without unplugging the fuse. Set your meter on Volts DC and at the fuse panel poke the positive lead into the window and the negative lead into a ground point. Check both windows on each fuse. You should get the same voltage on each.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

str8shooter_mn
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, I have a multimeter. No power to pump. Have 3 switches in various locations. Fuse for pump is also for control panel where you check tank levels. Haven't checked switches yet. Will do. Tank levels indicators are also not working.
2015 Tuscany 42HQ

accsys
Explorer
Explorer
Cincy Steve wrote:
Do you have pump switches @ multiple locations? All out? If just 1 is not working, it's likely that switch.

Also if you have multiple locations (you didn't state your RV model/make), you will most likely have a latching controller. If you replaced your pump with one that pulls more current and didn't replace the latching controller with a heavier duty one, it could easily fail as well.
John & Doris
Doris and Robbies Blogs
2017 Cedar Creek Cottage 40 CCK
FMCA F380583, PA, Good Sams

Cincy_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have pump switches @ multiple locations? All out? If just 1 is not working, it's likely that switch.

craig7h
Nomad II
Nomad II
Take your voltage meter (if you do not have go get one) and see if you are getting voltage at switch. If you are getting voltage at switch, there may be a in line fuse at the water pump location.
Good Luck
Itasca Meridian SE 36g
Road Master Tow Dolly

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Do you have a multimeter or 12 volt test light that you can use? I would test if the pump is even getting power. My guess though is the switch went bad so you'll want to check there too.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup