โNov-09-2015 07:42 AM
โNov-10-2015 06:40 PM
โNov-10-2015 03:33 PM
MrWizard wrote:
not if the relay is energized by the weak chassis battery
and may RV's have weak converters that do not charge well, with very low amps
the 40amp or more converters NOW common, did not use to be common
an RV with a Diode isolator is not going to charge the chassis battery period
the jump start function is only momentary
although with a good converter, a jumper cable between house positive and chassis positive, would do the trick
โNov-10-2015 03:02 PM
โNov-10-2015 02:27 PM
โNov-10-2015 07:04 AM
ferndaleflyer wrote:
Hook us old f rts get it done because when we were young there was NO road service----it was DIY or not at all.......
โNov-10-2015 05:00 AM
โNov-10-2015 04:27 AM
RLS7201 wrote:
While in Phoenix traffic I smelled hypoid rear end grease. The next morning, while in the campground, I pulled the RR hub and replaced the hub seal. O'reilly had the seal and the special socket to remove the hub nuts. Had to scrounge up two 5 gallon buckets. One to sit on and one to rotate the hub and rotor on to. The bucket caught all the grease.
Why all the talk about buying a battery charger when the alternator or belt fails on a MH? The Generator/converter will charge the chassis battery when the engine is running. Think about it. When the engine is running the isolator relay is engaged.
Richard
โNov-09-2015 08:37 PM
โNov-09-2015 08:30 PM
โNov-09-2015 08:04 PM
โNov-09-2015 07:57 PM
โNov-09-2015 07:27 PM
โNov-09-2015 07:08 PM
โNov-09-2015 04:06 PM
โNov-09-2015 03:58 PM