Winnebago, F53 Dim Low Beams only

[AstroRig57]

We have a Winnebago Sightseer on a Ford F53 chassis. It has a four sealed beam headlamp system with H4651 single filament halogen hi-beams and H4656 dual filament combination halogen high/low beams. It has a Daytime Running Lights system wherein the headlights illuminate, at reduced output, anytime the engine is running.

My problem is that the low beams are just horrendous. Since the high beam filament was burned out in one of the H4656's, and hoping to improve on the lighting situation, I installed all new Sylvania Silverstar replacements and I'm still not happy about the low beams. They just seem anemic.

I'm probably going to follow the whole headlight wiring harness, ensure I have good grounds, and make sure the wiring is in good shape. If push comes to shove, I may replace the whole headlight harness and relays with a high performance kit.

Has anyone experienced similar? Do I have a problem or is this just the nature of the beast?

[RLS7201]

My 95 Bounder had the same problem. I found two solutions.

1: The headlights were aimed at the tree tops.
Solution, aim headlights
2: The voltage was low at the lamps.
Solution, add a relay to increase voltage to lights.
See wiring diaghram at Daniel Stern Lighting

Richard

[bsinmich]

In the past many have suggested using a relay to get higher voltage to the headlights. Use a larger wire to the relay to provide full voltage. You can check to see what your voltage is at the headlights with a simple VOM. 10 V will definitely give a dim light. I just sold my Mountain Aire last week that I had 11 years and never once needed the headlights.

[AstroRig57]

MountainAir05 wrote:
I also have a F53 but Chevy P series also have the same issue. I just build a new wiring harness and hooked up to the battery and use relays to control the power, using the same switches inside to hook up to the relays. If low current due to wire size this will help you.....

Hikerdogs wrote:
You most likely have a poor ground for the headlight circuit. The easiest way to find out is to disconnect the plug and follow the wire to the ground stud. The ground studs are generally welded to the frame or a frame support member. They are rarely if ever painted or otherwise coated after welding so they rust rather quickly. The rust acts as an insulator, reducing the current flow.

If you can't easily find the ground stud push another wire into the ground terminal on the socket and run it directly to the negative post of the battery. If you have an improvement in the light output you'll know what needs to be done....

Thanks. I normally try to respond, let people know if I've tried their solutions, and not leave the thread hanging but wet weather has kept me from tackling this. I wanted to solve this before a big trip next week but, in California, I won't complain about the rain and snow.

As I noted in my original post, I've considered both of these issues...poor ground AND an inadequate wiring harness. In fact, I had almost pulled the trigger on an aftermarket upgraded harness and relay kit at the time I got the headlights. I'm going to do it, and soon, but don't know if I will have time before this trip.

In the meantime, I'll at least have time to chase down possible ground issues AND, remove the spaghetti of extraneous wiring left in the dash and under the hood by the previous owner. Some of this may be part of the problem as well. I don't need the FM modulator since I'm installing a proper stereo with proper auxiliary inputs. I don't need the Audio/Video modulator since I already jerked out the old CRT TV's and installed flat screens with proper digital tuners and HDMI inputs. I certainly don't need the multitude of dead end wires he had hooked up to Lord knows what. (shaking my head at some of what I've seen.)

I will let everyone know how this turns out.

[tderonne]

F53's have poor wiring. Ford won't quite acknowledge it, and uses a pretty twisted interpretation to be able to say they conform to FMVSS standards.

Details are in this thread.

[Hikerdogs]

You most likely have a poor ground for the headlight circuit. The easiest way to find out is to disconnect the plug and follow the wire to the ground stud. The ground studs are generally welded to the frame or a frame support member. They are rarely if ever painted or otherwise coated after welding so they rust rather quickly. The rust acts as an insulator, reducing the current flow.

If you can't easily find the ground stud push another wire into the ground terminal on the socket and run it directly to the negative post of the battery. If you have an improvement in the light output you'll know what needs to be done.

It'll probably take 10' to 15' of #14 wire to reach the battery. It'll cost a few bucks for the wire, but it will certainly let you know if there's a ground problem. As a side note a poor ground is the most common reason for poor or inoperative lights on any motor vehicle.

[MountainAir05]

I also have a F53 but Chevy P series also have the same issue. I just build a new wiring harness and hooked up to the battery and use relays to control the power, using the same switches inside to hook up to the relays. If low current due to wire size this will help you. I also have driving lights which are adjusted to the same length as the low beams. I think you will fine that you will not have full 12.5 volts to all lights due to wire size. PM me if you need a wiring picture or supplies list. There are also plenty of pictures and supplies list on the web also. Here is how I redid my vehicles.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

[jerseyjim]

Headlights on any motor vehicle must meet some federal standards, I would think. Can you aim the headlights up higher?
Mine are fine...and have always been fine. I did, however, remove the fuse for the daytime running lights...as I sometimes travel at nite and while parked waiting for someone or in a rest stop, with the motor on or off, I just want the marker lights.

[AstroRig57]

Y-Guy wrote:
Ours are not much better. Though generally I avoid driving at night whenever possible. Last December we got stuck out late, pitch black on windy road. Whick knuckle drive. After that I vowed to start looking for options. I'm leaning to skipping making stock changes and installing some LED driving lights instead. Figure it will be cheaper, get better light and since I don't use them often should be effective for my needs.

Thanks for the response. It sounds like it may be the nature of the beast. I think some of the effect is because we're sitting so far above the light source. The high beams aren't an issue. They're fine. Driving lights usually implies to me some sort of an auxiliary high beam lamp which provides high intensity light to enable the driver to see further down the road. I don't need that.

I need more effective low beams, for in close and when I've got oncoming traffic I don't want to blind. But you're right, a good auxiliary fog light or "passing beam" driving light might do the trick.

[darsben]

My P30 has the same problem on low beam. I have tried everything to get them brighter. I am leaning towards driving lights as well

[Y-Guy]

Ours are not much better. Though generally I avoid driving at night whenever possible. Last December we got stuck out late, pitch black on windy road. Whick knuckle drive. After that I vowed to start looking for options. I'm leaning to skipping making stock changes and installing some LED driving lights instead. Figure it will be cheaper, get better light and since I don't use them often should be effective for my needs.