110v Water Heater Switch?

[berreez]

I have a 2016 Thor Challenger 36TL. I’m new to RV but I’ve gained knowledge every day.

My control panel could have been labeled a lot better.
On the water heater switches, I don’t know if up or down is one for the electrical switch. I’ve turned it up and down but the water doesn’t get hot. The 110v does not have a light showing if it is on or not.

I think it may be burnt out. Which leads me to my question.

I know the tank has to be completely full of water before the 110v switch is on. So when we use any hot water do we have to turn the switch off, use the hot water and then fill the tank? Or does the tank fill back up and I should leave the 110v on?

[jaycocamprs]

berreez wrote:


I have a 2016 Thor Challenger 36TL, Atwood gas

Both the Atwood water heaters that we had used a AC switch on the junction box, inside the trailer on the back of the WH. Both were not easily seen.

[berreez]

OLYLEN wrote:
I guess a REAL dumb question. Are you plugged in or have the Gen running?

LEN

Yes

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood gas????

Would that be a pilot gas only, a DSI gas only

But you started post asking about 110V switch

MODEL NUMBER???

EX: GC6A-8E...G6a-7E...GC10A-4E etc etc

Atwood gas....that suggests NO AC electric element

[OLYLEN]

I guess a REAL dumb question. Are you plugged in or have the Gen running?

LEN

[berreez]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

berreez wrote:

doxiemom11 wrote:
Gas only seems to be coming in a lot of the newer rv models.

I have this year's model.

And that would be........WHAT???

Brand & Model cause the 2 mfgs have different ideas and even different versions within the various models

I have a 2016 Thor Challenger 36TL, Atwood gas

[Old-Biscuit]

berreez wrote:

doxiemom11 wrote:
Gas only seems to be coming in a lot of the newer rv models.

I have this year's model.

And that would be........WHAT???

Brand & Model cause the 2 mfgs have different ideas and even different versions within the various models

[berreez]

doxiemom11 wrote:
Gas only seems to be coming in a lot of the newer rv models.

I have this year's model.

[doxiemom11]

Gas only seems to be coming in a lot of the newer rv models.

[D_E_Bishop]

berreez, Are you sure that you have an electric heating rod in your Water heater tank? I looked at a 2015 Owners Manual and it is not listed. In reading the manual it tells you how to use propane to heat the water. Have you heated by propane yet?

The manual looked to be very generic and not for your specific model so look at the manual and then look at the water heater users manual, that should tell you if you have an electric element.

I see that you're not a new member so the Thor must be new to you, my suggestion is to first find out if you even have an electric element, determine the make and model of the water heater and the update your question.

[NanciL]

What brand is it ?

We have a brand new trailer with a Suburban and the other day when I went to use it for the first time, I had trouble finding the switch.
It is a very small switch in the outside water heater compartment on the lower left side almost hidden under some other equipment
I almost gave up looking for it until I got out the manual and found a diagram of where it is.

jack L

[Z-Peller]

My 30amp camper has a 110v selector switch marked for either Microwave or electric HW tank. Cannot run both at the same time. The electric HW tank on/ off switch is at a different location. Maybe you need to look see if yours has a selector switch somewhere that needs to be set to HW tank.

[Old-Biscuit]

Which brand of water heater do you have.....different methods used

Suburban....has a 'local' On/OFF switch in outside compartment (lower left corner) and MFG. may have installed an additional on/off switch inside RV.
Both have to be ON (top of switch pushed in)
Suburban WH electric element is directly wired to 120V AC Circuit breaker thru switches and thru it's own set of t-stats to control heating cycles

Atwood......has an ON/OFF switch inside RV. It is a 12V DC switch fed from the DC Dist Panel individual fused circuit thru switch to a 'relay' that triggers the 120V AC to electric element which is fed from it's own 120V AC circuit breaker.
It uses the same set of t-stats that propane uses for heating cycles

Water heater MUST have water in it or electric element will burn out in just a few minutes if dry fired. If valving is correct on backside of water heater then it will fill/refill when you have water supply on

[BB_TX]

Possible problems;
- bad inside switch
- bad outside switch or switch turned off (located on the water heater)
- bad thermostat/hi temp cutout switch (located on the water heater)
- bad heating element
- bad relay (in box on back side of water heater)
- loose wire connection somewhere in the circuit
- tripped breaker
- blown 12 v fuse
(some of the above assumming a Suburban water heater)

Process of elimination.

[ktmrfs]

cruiseruser wrote:
Hello,

Normally you have a "slave switch" located in an outside compartment. It could be close to your water heater or in a storage area with the water items. Check there first.
Also, once you have the fresh tank filled or on city water, the water heater will be refilled as you use it.
Good luck!

exactly. the switch in the trailer is a 12V switch, which turns on a relay in the water compartment. that relay is downstream of the main 120V power switch mentioned above. So.... for the wh to work on electric you must first have the switch in the WH turned on. Hint, virtually all trailers sold this way come from the factory with the switch in the WH, the slave switch turned OFF, dealer seldom turn them on, it's up to you to turn it on.