Is my setup any good?

[lolvo]

So, I took the plunge. I left behind my ridonkulously expensive apartment in the city, and bought a travel trailer and a truck to go see the country in. It's not like I had many other viable choices. I'm thinking of heading south for the winter, but towing the trailer has been... nerve-wracking so far.

1997 Ford F-250HD 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel, 2x4 (in surprisingly good condition, gets 16+mpg)
2010 Eclipse Milan 25RKS TT (6500lb dry weight afaik)
A regular old ball hitch, rated at 7500+lbs working load
A shifty, generic-looking brake controller that requires manual application of trailer brakes with simultaneous truck brakes 😕

On my first towing adventure ever (getting the trailer out of the lot), I discovered that the plug on the trailer doesn't like to stay seated in the socket on the truck, so I made it most of the way to my parking spot without trailer brakes. That was pretty terrifying, but doable. My second adventure (from parking lot to trailer park) went much the same way, but with a piece of paracord to hold the plug in its socket. I also noticed during this trip that the trailer bucked up-and-down and swerved side-to-side a LOT. This may have had to do with the fact that the rear-most grey tank (it sits well behind the rear axle) was 3/4 full, and the other tanks were half-full. I have been on a couple short trips since then with mostly-empty tanks (except the fresh tanks, which have been half-full), and still had some stability issues. I also noticed that applying the trailer brakes when I'm driving just seems to lock them up, and I don't even know how I would adjust them. Did I get too much trailer for my truck? Or do I just need to shift things up more towards the axle/front of the trailer? How in tarnation do I adjust the trailer brakes? Do I need an expensive new brake controller? Should I give up on the idea of ever going boondocking due to sloshing tanks? Do I need a weight distribution hitch???

So many questions, and only so much money.

[camp-n-family]

mowermech wrote:
I guess somebody has to be different, so I will.
Yes, a WD hitch is a "good thing" to have, but it is NOT "necessary". The original idea behind such hitches was to bring the headlights down out of the trees when towing. I used one on one vehicle many years ago; a 1970 Jeep Wagoneer, towing a 19 foot Travel Trailer. The WD hitch was an absolute necessity for that combination, to keep the Wagoneer rear bumper from scraping the ground! The same trailer behind a Dodge 3/4 ton did not need the WD hitch, and I never used it.
Some kind of "sway control" is another "good idea", but it should not be necessary. I have never used one. A properly built, properly loaded trailer should simply not sway, period! If there is a sway problem, find out why and fix it. Do not apply a "band aid", fix the problem(s)! It could be as simple as loading the trailer properly, it could be wrong tire inflation, it could be uneven tire inflation, it could be the wrong type of tire on the towing vehicle or the trailer. There can be a number of contributing factors. Fix them all.
Then, if a "sway control" gimmick gives you a sense of security, by all means install one.
Yes, most definitely, spend the money and get a GOOD brake controller! That IS a "must have"! I have found the Tekonsha Prodigy to be a very good one, almost as good as the Jordan 2010 I used to have, which is no longer made. There are better ones, but they get pricey!
You have plenty of truck. Personally, I would have chosen a Dodge Cummins, but the Ford is OK.
Good luck, and enjoy your travels.

Edit: Oh, yeah, and get the umbilical fixed so it stays properly connected!

Agree with most of this but in the OPs case they need the wd hitch in order to stay within the receiver rating.

[mowermech]

I guess somebody has to be different, so I will.
Yes, a WD hitch is a "good thing" to have, but it is NOT "necessary". The original idea behind such hitches was to bring the headlights down out of the trees when towing. I used one on one vehicle many years ago; a 1970 Jeep Wagoneer, towing a 19 foot Travel Trailer. The WD hitch was an absolute necessity for that combination, to keep the Wagoneer rear bumper from scraping the ground! The same trailer behind a Dodge 3/4 ton did not need the WD hitch, and I never used it.
Some kind of "sway control" is another "good idea", but it should not be necessary. I have never used one. A properly built, properly loaded trailer should simply not sway, period! If there is a sway problem, find out why and fix it. Do not apply a "band aid", fix the problem(s)! It could be as simple as loading the trailer properly, it could be wrong tire inflation, it could be uneven tire inflation, it could be the wrong type of tire on the towing vehicle or the trailer. There can be a number of contributing factors. Fix them all.
Then, if a "sway control" gimmick gives you a sense of security, by all means install one.
Yes, most definitely, spend the money and get a GOOD brake controller! That IS a "must have"! I have found the Tekonsha Prodigy to be a very good one, almost as good as the Jordan 2010 I used to have, which is no longer made. There are better ones, but they get pricey!
You have plenty of truck. Personally, I would have chosen a Dodge Cummins, but the Ford is OK.
Good luck, and enjoy your travels.

Edit: Oh, yeah, and get the umbilical fixed so it stays properly connected!

[OLYLEN]

Just took a look at Craigslist Seattle and for $180 there are/is several WDH's with sway dampener @ $100 AND brake controller at $80. Also I didn't see if anyone asked if your trailer is level when towing. You will need most likely a drop hitch to level.
Good luck and take some of the criticism with a grain of salt after all at 70 years old most of the knowledge was infused at birth and not learned by experience.

LEN

Had a second thought, do you have a frame mount hitch on the truck or just a bumper hitch? The frame mount 2"x 2" is what you need and again Craigslist is a good source.

[Grit_dog]

nickthehunter wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Nice post nickthehunter! Sooo encouraging....

Oh, let me be more encouraging. Trailer sways "ALOT", umbilical cord won't stay plugged in, trailer brakes don't come on with the vehicle, and you need cheap --> No Problem, You're good to go!

There fixed it Grit

I know dude, I get sarcastic on here too....my bad.

[nickthehunter]

Grit dog wrote:
Nice post nickthehunter! Sooo encouraging....

Oh, let me be more encouraging. Trailer sways "ALOT", umbilical cord won't stay plugged in, trailer brakes don't come on with the vehicle, and you need cheap --> No Problem, You're good to go!

There fixed it Grit

[dodge_guy]

Grit dog wrote:
Nice post nickthehunter! Sooo encouraging.

Question in general to all that are saying a wdh is required.
What is that going to do for the situation in general? Yes I understand hitch weight capacities and how a wdh fits "in the numbers game", but we are talking a max of 1000lb tongue weight here, possibly way less depending how the weight in the camper is distributed. On a big heavily sprung truck.
And you almost never see wdhs on anything but campers. Usually only if someone is pulling a big cargo trailer with a half ton.
What does a wdh do that inherently makes the camper better to tow than without, assuming a combo similar to the OPs?
Is it something TT owners get brainwashed into by RV salesmen and websites like this?
Admittedly, I've only towed 1 TT in my life. 26' Jayco sumthinorother. Hooked it to the back of the ole Dodge and took off. Owner had the wdh with him on another truck. Took it a couple hundred miles. Flyin down the freeway, 50-60 mph on curvy state roads. Felt the same as any other trailer.

A WD hitch will move some of the tongue weight back to the front axle which will increase stability. The ones I see with out them are Cargo trailers on 3/4 ton and up. the rear bumper is dragging and you can see its all over the road. It`s the mentality that "I have a 3/4 ton truck and I don`t need anything extra" it makes them feel like more of a "man" by not having it! It sounds crazy, but is very true! even a dually needs a WD hitch.

And as was mentioned, the receiver has a weight carrying rating and a WD rating. neither of which should be exceeded.

[myredracer]

Grit dog wrote:
Question in general to all that are saying a wdh is required.
What is that going to do for the situation in general?

First of all, the receiver will have a max. rating of 500 lbs without a WDH ("weight carrying") and 1250 lbs with ("weight distributing"). You should check your TV's owners manual to see what it says to do. You'll also need a WDH if you're going to use sway control (integral or add-on).

We tow a similar wt./length TT as OP and also with an F250. When I went through the process of dialing in our dual cam WDH, if I didn't restore close to the weight removed from steer axle, it didn't handle well at all. Took me a whole season of fiddling with the WDH before it felt good and it didn't happen until I finally dropped the nose of the trailer a little using a ball with a 1" rise.

When you look around a CG you sure see a lot of TTs either without a WDH that should have or are way off from how they should be adjusted.

[Grit_dog]

Nice post nickthehunter! Sooo encouraging.

Question in general to all that are saying a wdh is required.
What is that going to do for the situation in general? Yes I understand hitch weight capacities and how a wdh fits "in the numbers game", but we are talking a max of 1000lb tongue weight here, possibly way less depending how the weight in the camper is distributed. On a big heavily sprung truck.
And you almost never see wdhs on anything but campers. Usually only if someone is pulling a big cargo trailer with a half ton.
What does a wdh do that inherently makes the camper better to tow than without, assuming a combo similar to the OPs?
Is it something TT owners get brainwashed into by RV salesmen and websites like this?
Admittedly, I've only towed 1 TT in my life. 26' Jayco sumthinorother. Hooked it to the back of the ole Dodge and took off. Owner had the wdh with him on another truck. Took it a couple hundred miles. Flyin down the freeway, 50-60 mph on curvy state roads. Felt the same as any other trailer.

[myredracer]

Besides a WDH, sway control and brake controller, if the trailer has original tires, replace them with some quality ones. Probably LRD. Remove the brake drums and inspect the brakes and remove, inspect and repack the bearings. Inspect the suspension. Good chance the OEM plastic bushings are worn out. If you're not able to do this yourself, go to an independent RV shop. Water leakage can be the kiss of death on an RV. Read up on how to inspect caulking and check for leaks and how to do recaulking.

Learn how to set up a WDH. Very important. There is an excellent sticky in the towing forum. There are some WDHs with integral sway like Reese dual cam, Equal-i-zer and Blue Ox. Once you have the WDH properly set up, you'll love how it tows on busy interstates or twisty mountain roads.

Is anything in front end of the truck worn, what are the tires like and are the shocks in need of replacement?

Also, if you're going to be doing a lot of towing all over the place, invest in an RV GPS. A mobile hotspot like Verizon 4G along with a laptop would be a good idea so you can do things like look for a CG and check road conditions ahead of time.

[mgirardo]

I think your setup is fine, it just needs some fine tuning. Your truck can definitely handle the trailer. A weight distribution hitch is a must. We had the Equal-i-zer hitch and it worked great. However, it is pricey and I don't think it is worth the price. You can get a good WDH system and a friction bar sway controller for less.

If you can find the model number or even brand of brake controller, most likely you can find how to fine tune it. With our travel trailer, we had a Prodigy brake controller that had a manual control - a slider that allowed use to manually apply the trailer brakes and it had dials to fine tune soft braking and hard braking. When dialed in properly, it makes all the difference. Trailer brakes that lock up with the slightest pressure on the brake pedal is definitely nerve-racking.

Take the time and spend the money to get your hitch and brake controller setup properly, that includes fixing the 6 or 7 way plug. You driving experience will be much better for it. Also, have those tires inspected professionally. Most likely it is time for a new set. Don't cheap out on tires.

-Michael

[nickthehunter]

A trailer that sways with a umbilical cord that won't stay plugged in is a very dangerous combination. You could very easily lose the truck and trailer in a rollover accident.

RV'ing isn't cheap; you should have checked it out before you took the plunge and dumped the apartment

Now get a brake controller that works like it is supposed to, a weight distribution hitch, sway control, and new whatever so your umbilical cord stays plugged in.

You need to spend some of that rent money you saved and do things right before you end up with a catastrophe on your hands.

If it was anywhere around April 1, I would swear this whole post was some kind of stupid joke.

[Grit_dog]

Lots of good info here.
Yes a wdh and anti sway can/will improve the towing experience but you may as suggested, not have enough tongue weight, because even if you're a little tongue heavy, that truck should handle it.
Every brake controller I've seen for almost 30 years is adjustable to an extent. You first have to adjust "plumb" for lack of a better word on the controller as the older controllers are inertia activated and the "bubble" like a Mercury switch needs to be at the right angle.
Are you able to gently apply the brakes manually? If they immediately lock up with just a little travel on the lever, then the controller may be faulty.
Good news is the trailer brakes work well if you can lock them up.
Knowing you're on a budget, I wouldn't go whole hog on an expensive new hitch setup until you figure out the problems. Under normal conditions you should be able to pull it with little sway or bucking.
Lots of rvnet pros on here in WA. Petition the group, maybe someone could take a look at your setup.
I'll give you a hand if I can work it in and you're around south King County.
Having someone relatively qualified and impartial (not looking for a paycheck) will do volumes for getting you set up good.
You got a pretty good truck sounds like and a good trailer, jsit needs some tweaking.
Good luck!

[Alabama_Jim]

Check to see if you have the proper size ball on your hitch and you also need a good weight distribution hitch with stabilizer bars.

[camp-n-family]

I you want to travel the country and have a comfortable drive then don't cheap out on the hitch and brake controller. Get a decent wd hitch with built in sway control, Equil-I-zer or Reese dual cam are most popular as is the Tekonsha brake controller.

With a 5 year old trailer you're going to want to get the bearings and brakes serviced and possibly new tires as most only hav a 5 year lifespan, regardless of tread left.