Setting up for the 1st time at campground

[CarpFishermanAn]

Please verify these steps are correct (this is Wife asking making sure hubby does it right - LOL):
1. Unhook the sway arms before backing into site. (Is this completely necessary if you are just backing straight in to a paved, level spot?)
2. When trailer is where you want it, leave connected to truck and put chocks around wheels. (Do you also use the chocks you drive on to level it?)
3. At this point, do you unhook the truck or put down the jacks?
4. We also have X-chocks that go between the front and back wheels. Do these go on after the truck is disconnected?
5. Anything else we need to know about setting up and disconnecting?
Thanks!

[Drew_K]

To help level, I've found bubble levels like the one below to make it a pretty easy job. They have readings to tell you how many inches you need to raise the side or front of the RV. You obviously have to level the RV before installing these.

RV Levels

[AH64ID]

robsouth wrote:
ah64id, why do you put chalk on the wheels, and what is X-chalk? A special kind of chalk just for wheels? :h

:S I'll blame that on auto-correct. It must think I am a teacher not a camper.

[robsouth]

ah64id, why do you put chalk on the wheels, and what is X-chalk? A special kind of chalk just for wheels? :h

[Tom_Diane]

All good advice. A TIP: If you are in a cg with gravel roads/pads, and you are on a slight grade to back into a tight spot, I have removed the sway control always before backing. In the case of a grade, I removed the weight distribution before backing into a site also to give more traction.

[AH64ID]

Others have chimed in with great responses, but I will throw my routine in for campground parking.

1) Back into the spot (I personally don't disconnect, but use an Equal-i-zer and yours may differ).

2) Check distance to hookups/slide room, reposition as needed.

3) Check side to side level, use blocks as necessary

4) If #3 took some moving around recheck #2

5) Chock trailer tires, I use a min of 3 yellow wheel chocks

5) If site isn't level set park brake on brake controller (if applicable)

7) Use tongue jack to take tension off of of equalizer bars, and remove bars.

😎 Lower tongue, release coupler and raise truck off of ball.

9) If needed move truck foreword 2-3" to lower tongue, or raise tongue until trailer is level front to back. (I personally stay hooked up to safety chains and 7-pin during this process. It keeps my parking brake set, and provides a safety if the trailer rolls back off of leveling blocks)

10) Lower all 4 corner stabilizing jacks and install X-Chocks

11) Extend slide with truck running or plug into 30A power if available (this wont take the top charge off the batteries if you don't have hookups).

12) Disconnect safety chains and 7-pin, double check nothing hooked between truck and trailer.

13) Disable parking brake and park truck

14) Open/pour a beverage and enjoy.

Hitching up goes in reverse order, thou I never hook up the 7-Pin before closing the slide on the departure side.

Dispersed camping is similar, but I don't worry about hook-ups reaching.. just shade and a view.

Terryallan wrote:

Rolling Condo wrote:
No need to remove the weight distributation bars. Place leveling boards where necessary to level trailer from side to side. Back up on them. The X-chocks on both sides should be all that is necessary. Then you un-hitch.

Actually no. X chocks are NOT designed to keep the trailer from rolling, and they will not stop it. only to stabilize, and they do that well. You MUST chock the tires, front, and back to keep the trailer from rolling. After that. You can install the X, or loc chocks

Correct and they should be placed after the trailer is leveled fore/aft so that you aren't fighting the X-chock as you raise/lower the tongue.

Our last trip was out first trip with the X-chock and they work very well.

[Terryallan]

CarpFishermanAndWife wrote:
Ok thanks. So you park, check to see if it is level, then put the board or levelers down and TRY (??) to hit these (ha ha), check level, if too high or too low then drive off, remove or add boards/levelers and do it again. How many times does it usually take for a professional (not us - ha ha); one or two times? Thanks! 🙂

If you look at the level, you can see how far off the trailer is. Lynx levelers add 1" per block. And after just a few times, you will be able to tell how many it takes to raise the low side to level.

As for hitting the leveling boards. Not to big a feat, Depending on which way you need to go. You lay them behind, or infront of the tire with the block touching the tire. And with a Lynx lock, and chock, You lock it to the leveler, and it will stop you when you are on the block. Easy Peasy.

Once level, place a chock on the opposite side of the tire, Chock the other side of the trailer. Unhook from the TV. Level front to back, and drop the stabilizers down snug, Don't try to lift the trailer, that is not what they do.

Then install the x chocks if you have them, and hookup the electric, and water. Done.

BTW. You want to raise BOTH tires on the low side, you will need blocks under both tires.

[Terryallan]

Rolling Condo wrote:
No need to remove the weight distributation bars. Place leveling boards where necessary to level trailer from side to side. Back up on them. The X-chocks on both sides should be all that is necessary. Then you un-hitch.

Actually no. X chocks are NOT designed to keep the trailer from rolling, and they will not stop it. only to stabilize, and they do that well. You MUST chock the tires, front, and back to keep the trailer from rolling. After that. You can install the X, or loc chocks

[Reader1]

Most important is chocks on first and chocks off last. Try to use the exact same routine every time. That helps assure that you don't forget something important. With our 5th wheel we typed a list, laminated it, and attached it to the hitch. You could use a list somehow. If you are interrupted go back to the beginning of your list and start over. The one thing that DH often forgot was to turn the electric hot water heater on...normally we did not notice until I got into the shower! Be prepared to make mistakes, laugh them off if that are not too bad and most importantly know that you are about to make wonderful memories for yourself and your family. Also...know that those of us with many years of experience still make many mistakes.

[cmoecmoe]

CarpFishermanAndWife,

Check out the Andersen Camper Leveler/Chocks. We did not have these, but they look like I might try them if I did not have the new auto leveling system.

http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4JQV15VzBc


Remember... This is suposed to be fun!

Craig

[CarpFishermanAn]

Ok thanks. So you park, check to see if it is level, then put the board or levelers down and TRY (??) to hit these (ha ha), check level, if too high or too low then drive off, remove or add boards/levelers and do it again. How many times does it usually take for a professional (not us - ha ha); one or two times? Thanks! 🙂

[Rolling_Condo]

No need to remove the weight distributation bars. Place leveling boards where necessary to level trailer from side to side. Back up on them. The X-chocks on both sides should be all that is necessary. Then you un-hitch.

[GaryWT]

I have an equalizer hitch combined sway and weight so I don't remove anything, double check on this for your type. Not all sites are level so check level side to side, drive onto boards or lynx levelers as needed to level. Next put you chocks against the wheels. Once done unhook so you can level front to back. Once level the corner jacks can go down. X chocks can go at this point I believe. I always hook up water, electric, sewer and cable before opening slides so they are not in the way. Be sure that you parked so the slides do not open onto your neighbors site. Good luck and have fun.

[the_bear_II]

CarpFishermanAndWife wrote:
Please verify these steps are correct (this is Wife asking making sure hubby does it right - LOL):
1. Unhook the sway arms before backing into site. (Is this completely necessary if you are just backing straight in to a paved, level spot?)>>> only need to do if tight turns to get into site
2. When trailer is where you want it, leave connected to truck and put chocks around wheels. (Do you also use the chocks you drive on to level it?)>>>>>> Make sure electrical cord, water hose and sewer hose will reach campground pedestal/ sewer connection and water outlet. Drive up on blocks to level and then chock wheels
3. At this point, do you unhook the truck or put down the jacks? >>>> I unhook at this point.
4. We also have X-chocks that go between the front and back wheels. Do these go on after the truck is disconnected? >>>> before truck is disconnected
5. Anything else we need to know about setting up and disconnecting? >>> put down stabilizers/jacks all four corners or jackstands.
Thanks!