โOct-15-2017 11:58 AM
โOct-20-2017 06:34 PM
blt2ski wrote:
If one of the reasons for extending the ball back some, is to Jack knife the trailer per say......the best way to fix this, is extend the tongue of the trailer, so you have at least 4',4.5' to the trailer body or part that will hit.
I've also found that the longer the trailer from ball to axles, is easier to control backing. As truck will usually out turn the trailer easier. I also prefer the pivot closer to the TV axle vs far behind for handling issues as mentioned by some too. Although, I have to admit, most of the.trailers I pull do not use WD systems.
My 02 on this.
Marty.
โOct-20-2017 05:49 PM
โOct-19-2017 05:18 PM
โOct-19-2017 03:57 PM
โOct-19-2017 03:01 PM
โOct-19-2017 10:11 AM
โOct-18-2017 07:09 PM
โOct-18-2017 07:57 AM
path1 wrote:
Op here, Thank you...So, every inch of extension I loose 4.17 percent.
I did read on-line (unknown if true or not) that hitch ratings are based upon... 10 inches back from hitch cross member at center mass. So the first 10 inches are free then after 10 inches subtract 4.17 percent for every inch.
โOct-17-2017 06:06 PM
demiles wrote:
In the SAE j2807 standard they set the distance from the pin hole to the ball center to 15.88 inches for WD 12k or less and 11.88 inches for WD above 12k. The max trailer tow rating with 10% hitch weight is set using these distances so there is a โstandardโ or recommendation per say.
โOct-17-2017 09:07 AM
ken56 wrote:
Length most certainly makes a difference. Look up aircraft weight and balance and turning moments (and it has nothing to do with turning). You certainly can overload your receiver by extending the shank.
โOct-17-2017 07:11 AM
โOct-17-2017 06:59 AM
โOct-16-2017 05:34 PM
โOct-16-2017 03:59 PM