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Back hanging up. Casters?

bandit86
Explorer
Explorer
My 21 foot bumper pool keystone hobby was close to hanging up at my hunting cabin, and now this 26 foot long forest river toy hauler is guaranteed to get hung up because there is a short creek to cross that is kinda steep to get down to both ways.

I'm doing a spring over this weekend if the weather is good, but I'm still thinking some wheels at the back would help to keep the sharp edge from digging in.

Way sort of wheel would you use? Because it has an I-beam frame I'm going to add 2 wheels to each rail, just don't know what kind. Seething small but wide, greaseable, preferably maintenance free. Even thought of UHMW sliders on the frame too
8 REPLIES 8

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
This type of trailer add-on comes up in discussion every once in a while, and the consensus of opinion is that it puts quite a bit of stress on the frame if the rear casters/wheels actually get to the point of supporting the weight of the trailer.

If the frame is just going to drag, I'd ass something smooth and strong so it would at least drag easier and not gouge.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Hiking_Hunter
Explorer
Explorer
Raise the bottom of the creek where you cross it with stones made for retaining walls (4" to 8" high laid flat) something like a Geostone, or a paver of some sort?
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nickthehunter
Nomad II
Nomad II
I forsee a bent frame in your future.

bandit86
Explorer
Explorer
It is a dirt road. The back of the camper is like a plow, it's going to keep digging in. I'm thinking of 4 pieces of 3inch wide, 3 inch something wheels.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Putting (and making use of) wheels on the back of a frame sounds to me like a great way to bend or break the frame of the trailer, at least in many cases. Supporting the weight from the extreme ends is quite a different loading than supporting most of it from the wheels.

I think the proper solution would be to rework the driveway if needed so you can traverse it, with a culvert or digging out the banks to even up the transition or something along those lines. As Dutchmen pointed out, this may not be required.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
I'm just asking, but???

What is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the trailer frame for your 21 footer and what is the distance in your new camper. If the new camper sits higher, you might not have a problem at all.

My current Outback sits much higher than my last Springdale. My Springdale had only 1 step for the entrance door (ground, step, trailer floor). My Outback now has 3 steps (ground, step, step, step, trailer floor).

Many of the newer campers that have slide outs are being built higher off the road so slide-outs miss the frame. I would imagine a toy hauler would sit higher also.

Personally, I would not put wheels on the back. But you might not be me either.

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm not sure if any of the short roller wheels that are used like for going in and out of parking lots will help you. You must be on a dirt road if you're crossing a small steam. The small wheels will just dig into the dirt and the back of the trail will still hit.

eTrailer rollers

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Consider that anything you add will hang down even further and drag worse.

I don't think wheels are necessary for your use, a skid to protect anything that could be damaged would be enough.

Is the TT level? Lower the tongue to raise the rear. You could even remove any weight distribution when you head off road.
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