Brake Performance After Changing Brake Assemblies

[Brent_and_Gina]

Hey all!

Due to leaking grease seals, contaminated components, and an upcoming trip, I changed out my brake assemblies. I decided to put the Dexter self-adjusting assemblies on my Lippert 5200lb axles and repack the bearings with new seals of course. eTrailer suggested the Dexters and I've read where many have used Dexter on Lippert in case some may think that's the issue. Just finished testing the brakes. Most information I've read on it says to start controller out at 5, get up to about 25 and use the controller only to stop the rig. If the tires do not lock up, increase by .5 until they do. This is the appropriate setting, again, according to the literature I've read. So, ok, got it. Also, a site says to "burnish the brakes" doing 40 to 20 slowing many times using the controller. Ok, got that too. These are self-adjusting so they may be off some and need to fine tune despite me doing an initial "light rub" adjustment. Ok, wow, lots to consider. Now, here are the results of my test trying to do all these things:

1. Did about 10, 40 to 20 slows over about 5 miles.
2. Tested controller. Worked up to 10 on the controller, and still, it would not lock up the tires.
3. Did about 10 or so--engage and release--actions going from about 50 mph to 5 mpg the thought being I'm advancing the self-adjusting feature.
4. Tested controller. At 10, it would not lock up the tires. At 10, it felt like it was better at stopping, but it's still at 10.
5. Pulled over. Brakes were extremely hot.
6. On my street coming home, did many 10 mph to stop using controller only. Decent braking at 10. Backed up and stopped many times using only the controller. Stopped very well backing up.
7. Braking was better than when I left house, but am far from satisfied.

I expect the controller to engage the trailer aggressively at around 5 or 6 and I'm not there. So, I'm hoping you guys can give me some feedback on your experience after changing brake assemblies. Will it pick up much better later after brakes brake in or self-adjuster is where it needs to be? Should I take off the drums and inspect? Anything else? Have an 09 F250 integrated controller and the trailer is right at 10,000. Appreciate the time guys.

Brent

[deltabravo]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Even self-adjusting drum brake need initial manual adjustment to start with

Ditto.

Also, with as many stops you did in a short time frame, not allowing the brakes to cool, they've experienced excess heat.

[Buck50HD]

With the wire change, I gained about 1.5 Volts at the magnets which is huge when starting at only 8.5-9V. Noticeable increase in braking power. Original wires looked like 16ga.

[dodge_guy]

When I replaced the magnets on my trailer I had to burnish the brake magnets. It took many miles of activating the manual control on the brake controller. After about an hour and many trailer brake only stops the trailer was stopping better than it ever did (reason for replacing the magnets). You will have to aggressively stop the trailer. Set the controller to max and use the lever only to stop both Rick and trailer from about 50mph. Give some time in between to let the magnets cool.

[BenK]

This article/thread might help...I've never liked ANY trailer OEM's wiring

From the gauge sizing to the connectors used to the handy work

LAdams thread: I rewired my trailer brakes
LAdamstrailer LAdamsrewire LAdamsbrakewiring brakewiring trailerbrakewiring

One of the best on this topic and should be the reference for any trailer
brake issue as the goal to have this level of wiring...really miss LAdams...

[Brent_and_Gina]

Buck50HD wrote:
The brakes on our 5th have never had enough power to lock on pavement. I even increased the wire size to help with voltage drop. That got it to lock on gravel but not on pavement.

We have the lippert "4400" lb axles that are basically a 3500lb axle with a larger diameter tube to minimize deflection under load. This means 3500lb brakes (10" dia) and bearings that are maxed out. Just had a bearing failure after 2 yrs and 5k miles so I'm not a big Lippert fan at the moment.

If your axles are near max rating, they may never lock.

I think you are right Buck. I'm likely not going to get them to lock up. It was mentioned in my RV Owner's Forum as well. Still, I am hoping for better braking.

Brent

[Buck50HD]

The brakes on our 5th have never had enough power to lock on pavement. I even increased the wire size to help with voltage drop. That got it to lock on gravel but not on pavement.

We have the lippert "4400" lb axles that are basically a 3500lb axle with a larger diameter tube to minimize deflection under load. This means 3500lb brakes (10" dia) and bearings that are maxed out. Just had a bearing failure after 2 yrs and 5k miles so I'm not a big Lippert fan at the moment.

If your axles are near max rating, they may never lock.

[Brent_and_Gina]

Good to hear guys. I'll head out on the trip and expect it to get better as time and miles rack up. Thanks.

Brent

[elkhorn98]

Same thing happened to me. Just drive more and it should get better.

[campigloo]

You may have an inertia based brake controller. It won't deliver full voltage until it detects a sudden stop situation. The harder you hit the TV brakes the more the trailer brakes will engage.

[WDP]

Lynnmor wrote:
I did the same. It took 1000 miles till the braking returned to normal. The problem it the material used for brake lining, but hey, it is better for the environment.......right up to the point of impact.

Took me 800 miles to seat the shoes, many trailer brake only to finally get the stopping force expected. The lock the tires instructions does not apply to heavier trailers.

WDP

[Lynnmor]

I did the same. It took 1000 miles till the braking returned to normal. The problem it the material used for brake lining, but hey, it is better for the environment.......right up to the point of impact.

[Old-Biscuit]

Even self-adjusting drum brake need initial manual adjustment to start with
They need to be 'burnished' by doing MULTIPLE stopping actions and letting brakes cool between each stopping
Dexter self-adjusting drum brake assemblies are forward adjusting....some adjusting will occur when backing up. Initial install.....do several short braking actions at slow speed using tow vehicle brake pedal. Brake/off/brake/off.
Should be able to hear 'click/click' of brake adjuster lever as if resets on star wheel

And after about 100 miles of use...you will notice a marked improvement to braking .............may never lock up except at slow speed on dirt/gravel surfaces.

[TXiceman]

Yes, Dexters are forward adjusting.

k
Kne

[Brent_and_Gina]

ib516 wrote:
Drum brakes adjust when used while going backwards....at least to my knowledge.

Appreciate the response! Called Dexter and they told me that all of their brakes are forward-adjusting. Still, I did back up and brake many times on my street just in case. Any other ideas?