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Brakes are Fixed (from closed thread)

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
Update:

Took about 3 hours at an Auto zone.

New calipers, new rotors, new pads, bled hydraulic system and it's all work all working perfectly. Better then new.

Just need to retorque the lugnuts after 50 miles.

Thanks for the idea to do it at an AutoZone.
21 REPLIES 21

Eric_Lisa
Explorer II
Explorer II
shum02 wrote:
...Drilled rotor particularly on HD trucks will more than likely warp under hard braking with load....


I kept having problems with rotors warping on one of my sedans. The drilled & slotted rotors weren't that much more expensive, so I stuck them on the car. That was 150k miles ago and the rotors are hardly worn. I think I have done two sets of brake pads during that time.

Just put new drilled/slotted rotors & pads on the 1/2 ton pickup... $159 through Summit Racing and 90 minutes of my time out in the shop (just because I also rotated the tires while I was at it).

This is just what works for me, and your mileage may vary. ๐Ÿ™‚

HTH,
-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, New HT383 motor!, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
I run nothing but ceramic pads. The semi metallic pads run hot and do not stop well when hot. Plus they are extremely dirty!

I have had nothing but good luck with the ceramic pads.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
JIMNLIN wrote:
Ultimately the solid rotors have more metal mass to absorb heat and more surface area for friction. Outgassing is not an issue with modern semimetalic pads. Ceramic primary purpose is to reduce brake material making your wheels look dirty from brake dust. Ceramic also does not transmit heat well and forces more on the rotor. Google will find much to read such as this.

A couple of years back we had a big forum discussion (mostly cussin') ceramic pads and slotted rotors on one of the haulers forums I'm a member of.
Just about all the O/O that had went with them said they had heating and premature wear issues and went back to the good ol' HD semi metalic pads non slotted rotors.
One websites even had a sticky warning O/O members about those issues when using ceramic pads and especially slotted rotors on their service trailers and trucks.



Thatโ€™s really interesting. I guess I lucked out into the semi metallic heavy duty with non-slotted non-drilled rotors.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
pasusan wrote:
I'm with you - we're filling up the landfills faster than ever.


Brake rotors go to the scrap yard, not the landfill...
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

mdcamping
Explorer
Explorer
HadEnough wrote:
Update:

Took about 3 hours at an Auto zone.

New calipers, new rotors, new pads, bled hydraulic system and it's all work all working perfectly. Better then new.

Just need to retorque the lugnuts after 50 miles.

Thanks for the idea to do it at an AutoZone.


Glad everything worked out.

Mike
2022 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost 4X4 Supercrew GCWR 19,500 157WB
Payload 2476 Maxtow 13,800 3.73 Equalizer 4 Pt Sway Hitch
2017 Jayco Jay Flight 24RBS
Old TV, 07 Toyota Tacoma, Double Cab, Factory Tow Pkg, retired towing at 229K. (Son now owns truck)

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Ultimately the solid rotors have more metal mass to absorb heat and more surface area for friction. Outgassing is not an issue with modern semimetalic pads. Ceramic primary purpose is to reduce brake material making your wheels look dirty from brake dust. Ceramic also does not transmit heat well and forces more on the rotor. Google will find much to read such as this.

A couple of years back we had a big forum discussion (mostly cussin') ceramic pads and slotted rotors on one of the haulers forums I'm a member of.
Just about all the O/O that had went with them said they had heating and premature wear issues and went back to the good ol' HD semi metalic pads non slotted rotors.
One websites even had a sticky warning O/O members about those issues when using ceramic pads and especially slotted rotors on their service trailers and trucks.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

pasusan
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The rotors were only $60 Cdn each. It was cheaper to replace them than to turn them. I HATE that sort of waste.
I'm with you - we're filling up the landfills faster than ever.


HadEnough - glad you've got it taken care of! (We actually did do a brake job in a campground - a provincial park outside of Toronto - many years ago.)

Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170]
href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics

shum02
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The rotors were only $60 Cdn each. It was cheaper to replace them than to turn them. I HATE that sort of waste.


Try to find a place that even has or knows how. Yup, easier and cheaper to replace with new.
2006 F350 Lariat FX4 CC 4x4 PSD
2007 KZ2505QSS-F Outdoorsman

shum02
Explorer
Explorer
HadEnough wrote:
time2roll wrote:
HadEnough wrote:
The parts weren't the great aftermarket ones as I was hoping for. They couldn't source the good stuff. Just stock brakes with coated rotors and "heavy duty" auto shop pads.
You don't want those slotted and drilled rotors nor the ceramic pads.

Solid OEM style rotors and HD pads are better for this service.



Why is this?

From my reading people said the slotted and drilled with ceramic/carbon were better for towing and hauling. That they blew off the heat a lot better preventing brake fade.

I don't use my regular brakes like that anyway (I use the exhaust brake) but I'm curious what you mean.


All modern rotors are already internally slotted. Drilled rotor particularly on HD trucks will more than likely warp under hard braking with load. If the OEM does not use them........drilled rotors are for pavement princesses. Mass is what you want, it's not a race car.
2006 F350 Lariat FX4 CC 4x4 PSD
2007 KZ2505QSS-F Outdoorsman

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you, time 2 roll. Very interesting points.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Ultimately the solid rotors have more metal mass to absorb heat and more surface area for friction. Outgassing is not an issue with modern semimetalic pads. Ceramic primary purpose is to reduce brake material making your wheels look dirty from brake dust. Ceramic also does not transmit heat well and forces more on the rotor. Google will find much to read such as this.

https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/truth-drilledslotted-brake-rotors/

Indy car brake assembly: (note no slots, no drills)



https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/indycar-(2)

OK these NASCAR brakes have slots but no drills:


https://thebrakereport.com/brembo-explains-nascar-brakes/

I think you are good to go with what you have. You said yourself "better than new"

https://www.autoanything.com/resources/what-are-the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-semi-metallic/

HadEnough
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
HadEnough wrote:
The parts weren't the great aftermarket ones as I was hoping for. They couldn't source the good stuff. Just stock brakes with coated rotors and "heavy duty" auto shop pads.
You don't want those slotted and drilled rotors nor the ceramic pads.

Solid OEM style rotors and HD pads are better for this service.



Why is this?

From my reading people said the slotted and drilled with ceramic/carbon were better for towing and hauling. That they blew off the heat a lot better preventing brake fade.

I don't use my regular brakes like that anyway (I use the exhaust brake) but I'm curious what you mean.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

The rotors were only $60 Cdn each. It was cheaper to replace them than to turn them. I HATE that sort of waste.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
May I ask the cost?

If you have the time to wait for delivery, Amazon and/or Rock Auto can easily knock $100-$200 off of NAPAs price. Stick with name brand, "top of the line" parts.