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Broken/ leaking exhaust manifold bolts

teddy360
Explorer
Explorer
I have recently been experiencing exhaust leaks from my exhaust manifold, and it looks like I have a couple broken bolts on the manifold itself, which is where I think the leak is coming from. I have an 8.1L engine in my home, but what I am wondering is if anyone has any good/ affordable solution to the issue? I'm not the most motor savvy, so I have reached out to other people on other cites for input too.. I've seen everything from welding them out, to replacing the whole works at a shop, to trying K.A.P bolt repair kits. Any suggestions or recommendations?
25 REPLIES 25

mike_brez
Explorer
Explorer
Guess I'm a gambler. Had leaking manifold bolts on my 1994 PaceArrow when it was 21 years old. Soaked the bolts and studs for a week spraying a few times a day with a mixture of aceatone and transmission fluid. Everyone came right out and replaced with ceramic coated Doug thorly headers.

Recently just replaced my turbo charger on the motorhomeHere and did the same soaking procedure and all nuts came right off.
1998 36 foot Country Coach Magna #5499 Single slide
Gillig chassis with a series 40
02 Ford F250 7.3 with a few mods
2015 Wrangler JKU

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Explorer
"You've got to know when to hold 'em,

Know when to fold 'em,

Know when to walk away;

Know when to run..."


-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB

mike_brez
Explorer
Explorer
So any luck? did you get them out or bring it somewhere?
1998 36 foot Country Coach Magna #5499 Single slide
Gillig chassis with a series 40
02 Ford F250 7.3 with a few mods
2015 Wrangler JKU

weasel4
Explorer
Explorer
All bolts should be tightened to the proper torque, not just using an, it appears tight enough method.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Dtank wrote:
theoldwizard1 wrote:
azdryheat wrote:
It's somewhat easy to do but get a mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.

ABSOLUTELY !

I have been a "shade tree" mechanic for almost 50 years, and replacing an exhaust manifold and studs/bolts is something I would never attempt (except in my broke/stupid youth) !

If it means driving for a couple of more weeks while you save up the money, it will be worth it !!


After reading your thread-starter post.......

X-2 on "ABSOLUTELY".

Pay "the freight" (the mechanic) - and save the grief (yours).

.


X3

If you try yourself and make it worse it will cost even more. Maybe a lot more.

A easy out will work in some cases for some things but, not with manifold bolts. They have been heated and cooled through many cycles. They are dammed stuck.

It's might cost some dough to get it fixed. Might have to remove lots of stuff to get to them. If it's been leaking for awhile you might need to have the manifold removed and plained.

Or, you might get lucky and the mechanic might get them right out.

Don't try it at home in any case.

fourthclassC
Explorer
Explorer
Well I do almost all my own work on everything. Here's a clue if you attempt it. Remove the wheel (from the side with the broken bold/stud) and remove the inner fender. (usually held in with plastic fasteners) Greatly improves access. Also another vote here for using alternative method (weld nut on) because I have never had success with an easy out.

Bipeflier
Explorer
Explorer
Exhaust systems and sewer systems are 2 things I won't mess with. Neither ever go well. Leave it to a professional.
2010 Cruiser CF30SK Patriot
2016 3500 Duramax
1950 Right Hand Seat GPS (she tells me where to go)

Dtank
Explorer
Explorer
theoldwizard1 wrote:
azdryheat wrote:
It's somewhat easy to do but get a mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.

ABSOLUTELY !

I have been a "shade tree" mechanic for almost 50 years, and replacing an exhaust manifold and studs/bolts is something I would never attempt (except in my broke/stupid youth) !

If it means driving for a couple of more weeks while you save up the money, it will be worth it !!


After reading your thread-starter post.......

X-2 on "ABSOLUTELY".

Pay "the freight" (the mechanic) - and save the grief (yours).

.

gkainz
Explorer
Explorer
sign in a shop ...

"This 1 hour job is 1 broken bolt away from becoming an 8 hour job"
'07 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 Quad Cab
'10 Keystone Laredo 245 5er

Eric_Lisa
Explorer II
Explorer II
I recently had four bolts (out of six) snap on the lower unit from an outboard motor. They were a real PITA to drill out and re-tap. That is with the lower unit in a vice on my work bench. I can't imagine trying to do the same thing to an exhaust manifold bold in the confines of an engine compartment. Something goes wrong, and it goes from bad to worse - unable to drive the vehicle to a mechanic.

I am a avid DIY person. However, there are some things where the amount of frustration incurred will outweigh the DIY satisfaction. Exhaust manifold bolts, with the motor in the vehicle, are one of them.

+1 to spend the money with the mechanic.

HTH,
-Eric
Eric & Lisa - Oregon
'97 Silverado K2500, New HT383 motor!, Airbags, anti-sway bar
'03 Lance model 1030, generator, solar,

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
ZINGERLITE wrote:
Dave H M wrote:
X3 here on the easy out. If you go there once, that will be the first time and last on what to do next after the easy out snaps :h


Machinist friends ive known always say that the best thing to do with an easy-out kit it throw it in the trash.
Yes, if you don't know how to use one it's the best thing to do with it. OTOH if you do know how to use one, then they are very handy, and, dare I say, indispensable in some cases.

And there really is a technique to lessen the chances of braking an EZ-Out. Unfortunately, just techniques, no guarantees. ๐Ÿ™‚
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

tdiller
Explorer
Explorer
I'm pushing 60 and in all those years I have never had an easy out work. I gave up on them after the first few tries left a broken easyout where the stuck bolt once was. Now I let me son the mechanic do the work.

ZINGERLITE
Explorer
Explorer
Dave H M wrote:
X3 here on the easy out. If you go there once, that will be the first time and last on what to do next after the easy out snaps :h


Machinist friends ive known always say that the best thing to do with an easy-out kit it throw it in the trash.

parker_rowe
Explorer
Explorer
If it is the bolts that hold the manifold to the head, this a a common issue on the LS series. Not sure about the 8.1's....do they have aluminum heads?

The aluminum head LS's are pretty easy from what I hear. My friend has done a few. You just weld a nut to the broken bolt. The heat loosens it up and the nut lets you take it out. And you don't have to worry about welding the nut to the head accidentally because it's aluminum. He says they are no problem...I've never done one.

If it the the stud/bolt that connects the manifold to the rest of the exhaust, I would probably just replace the manifold. I don't think they are that expensive.

If you can install headers, you can do this. Might get the blood pressure up a bit your first time, but it's not rocket surgery. ๐Ÿ™‚
2015 Starcraft TravelStar 239TBS 6500 GVWR
1997 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4 Vortec/4.10
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000