Dealer gave me wrong equal-I-zer size?

[shades9323]

So I picked up a 2015 Jayco X23b hybrid today and the dealer installed the equalizer with the 600/6000 head/bars. Loaded trailer weight is 5000 max. I’ve read online people exceeding 600lbs on the tongue. 600lbs is 12%. Am I safe with the 600/6000 or should I go back and ask for the 1000/10000 set up?

[shades9323]

Ralph Cramden wrote:


Tell what? If its a Norco or if the coupler is to far back? A Norco frame is bolted together with huck bolts and will have large holes punched through the rails and cross members. Its actually a really good frame. But it would of been made to the specs Jayco gave them. I just have never seen something that close. The coupler can be removed and relocated. Its not that big of a job if you have the equipment even if you had to alter the A frame. Something is not right in those pictures.

It was about the frame. I did find a norco sticker. I have no equipment or skills for that. I might be better off going with something like a blue ix that doesn’t have such a massive head?

[Ralph_Cramden]

shades9323 wrote:
-
I do see a sticker with a norco part number I saw someone else online with the same camper and same issue

Tell what? If its a Norco or if the coupler is to far back? A Norco frame is bolted together with huck bolts and will have large holes punched through the rails and cross members. Its actually a really good frame. But it would of been made to the specs Jayco gave them. I just have never seen something that close. The coupler can be removed and relocated. Its not that big of a job if you have the equipment even if you had to alter the A frame. Something is not right in those pictures.

[shades9323]

Ralph Cramden wrote:


It looks like they welded the coupler too far back on the A frame. Ive never seen a WDH head end up that close to the front point of where the A frame tubes come together. Its almost like they had the angle off on the A frame tubes. Is it a Bal Norco frame?

I do see a sticker with a norco part number I saw someone else online with the same camper and same issue

[Ralph_Cramden]

shades9323 wrote:

TurnThePage wrote:

shades9323 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

What happens if I load up the trailer and it ends up with a 650lb tongue weight?

Nothing. As mentioned before, the 600 lb limit is the maximum that the bars can transfer off the hitch. Nothing is going to break or cause massive issues by going a bit above. You are in that grey area whether the higher weight hitch would help or hinder. My tongue weight is in the 750 - 800 lb range and I'm using the 1000 lb setup. I like it, but also realize I could still probably get away with the 600 lb one.

There is no way the trailer caused your paint chip by impacting the hitch head either. If nothing bumped it right there, it could simply be a spot where the paint didn't adhere well and hitch flexing caused it to flake off.

If you want to go to the trouble of replacing your hitch, which will enable you to upgrade trailers in the future, go for it. Otherwise, don't sweat the small stuff.

Check out this album for pics of it hitting where safety chains connect to the trailer. Could possibly shear chains or bend the connection.

https://imgur.com/gallery/j8WeUL7

It looks like they welded the coupler too far back on the A frame. Ive never seen a WDH head end up that close to the front point of where the A frame tubes come together. Its almost like they had the angle off on the A frame tubes. Is it a Bal Norco frame?

[parker_rowe]

jfkmk wrote:
The manufacturers website also recommends adding 1/3 the weight of rear seat passengers and cargo carried in the back of the vehicle to calculate the bars you need. If you’re already right at the calculated required bars already, you might want to keep that in mind.

I was under that impression as well. I just picked up some 1K bars for mine to replace the 750's the dealer supplied. Luckily I can just replace my bars.

With a GVWR of 6500, I'm already at 780lbs with the 'estimated' 12% TW fully loaded.

Once I pack some junk in the back of the 'burb, and add 42 gallons of gas (which is all aft of the rear axle in my truck), I'm in range for 1K bars. Equalizers calculator agrees.

Are you suppose to take into account the weight of the hitch head to? They aren't light.

Of course, its easy for me to switch back to the 750's if I don't like the heavier bars.

[shades9323]

TurnThePage wrote:

shades9323 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

What happens if I load up the trailer and it ends up with a 650lb tongue weight?

Nothing. As mentioned before, the 600 lb limit is the maximum that the bars can transfer off the hitch. Nothing is going to break or cause massive issues by going a bit above. You are in that grey area whether the higher weight hitch would help or hinder. My tongue weight is in the 750 - 800 lb range and I'm using the 1000 lb setup. I like it, but also realize I could still probably get away with the 600 lb one.

There is no way the trailer caused your paint chip by impacting the hitch head either. If nothing bumped it right there, it could simply be a spot where the paint didn't adhere well and hitch flexing caused it to flake off.

If you want to go to the trouble of replacing your hitch, which will enable you to upgrade trailers in the future, go for it. Otherwise, don't sweat the small stuff.

Check out this album for pics of it hitting where safety chains connect to the trailer. Could possibly shear chains or bend the connection.

https://imgur.com/gallery/j8WeUL7

[jfkmk]

The manufacturers website also recommends adding 1/3 the weight of rear seat passengers and cargo carried in the back of the vehicle to calculate the bars you need. If you’re already right at the calculated required bars already, you might want to keep that in mind.

[dodge_guy]

shades9323 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

What happens if I load up the trailer and it ends up with a 650lb tongue weight?

Nothing will happen.

And if you take it to a scale and get it’s loaded for travel weight then you will know how to load it to it’s proper loaded tongue weight. And if you go by it’s GVWR because the CCC is so small then you will have the 600lbs like we’ve been saying. Believe me, if you put 1000lb bars on a trailer with 600 lbs of tongue weight you will have other issues.

[TurnThePage]

shades9323 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

What happens if I load up the trailer and it ends up with a 650lb tongue weight?

Nothing. As mentioned before, the 600 lb limit is the maximum that the bars can transfer off the hitch. Nothing is going to break or cause massive issues by going a bit above. You are in that grey area whether the higher weight hitch would help or hinder. My tongue weight is in the 750 - 800 lb range and I'm using the 1000 lb setup. I like it, but also realize I could still probably get away with the 600 lb one.

There is no way the trailer caused your paint chip by impacting the hitch head either. If nothing bumped it right there, it could simply be a spot where the paint didn't adhere well and hitch flexing caused it to flake off.

If you want to go to the trouble of replacing your hitch, which will enable you to upgrade trailers in the future, go for it. Otherwise, don't sweat the small stuff.

[shades9323]

dodge guy wrote:
No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

What happens if I load up the trailer and it ends up with a 650lb tongue weight?

[shades9323]

As for my other issue of the trailer frame hitting the hitch head during a normal turn. I can get some better pics tonight of it happening but here is the result after one trip. Can I remedy this in any way?

Looks like I can't put the pic on here so see link below.

https://imgur.com/gallery/ZrrTO4K

[dodge_guy]

No way would I run 1k lb spring bars on a trailer with 600lbs of tongue weight. Yes some of us are experts, more so than what some website calculator thinks you need.

OP, keep the bars you currently have.

[SoundGuy]

Kavoom wrote:
I'm thinking it could be a similar situation to the Equalizer in that the main difference was only in the bars?

As already mentioned, if the OP switches from an Equal-i-zer with 600 lb spring bars to one with 1000 lb spring bars he also needs to change the head.

Amazing how so many "experts" here disagree with Equal-i-zer's own spring bar calculator which clearly indicates the OP should be using 1000 lb spring bars. Go figure. :R

[trail-explorer]

shades9323 wrote:
Do you think I need to move up?

Nope. your hitch is fine

[ScottG]

I agree with keeping the present bars. They are the right choice for your low tongue weight and using bars that are way over rated have their down side as well.