Dicor roof sealant is messy

[Jbrowland]

Well today I got up on the roof to make sure all was well before we take our next trip. Not too shabby. Needs to be cleaned but could be worse.

I did notice a little bit of the old sealant at the back seem was starting to peel up a little so I starting pulling to see if it would pull off in a little area but of course 30 minutes later I pretty easily had the entire back seem of sealant off. So, time to put some dicor self leveling lap sealant on once the old stuff was completely cleaned off.

I guess my comment and or question is this. It doesn't have to look pretty right? As long as it goes on and doesn't leak? I have used the stuff once before and it never fails. It always looks messy and never as good as the original sealant looked and it ends up all over my hands. Is there a secret to stopping it from oozing once it starts!? That stuff is a menace but it "seems" to work. 😉

[DrewE]

Specularius wrote:
What is the difference between the 501 lap sealant and the 502 lap sealant?

Basically nothing in the actual sealant, from what I can tell. 502 is intended more for manufacturer high-volume use and is available in bulk containers for use with pumping equipment, while 501 is only available in tubes and aimed more at the consumer market.

[westend]

SoundGuy wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:
My greater issue is trying to do a neat job with the Proflex non sag on the sidewalls ...

Mortimer Brewster wrote:
When working with Dicor on the sidewalls keep a bowl of soapy water nearby. After laying down a thin bead just dip your finger in the water and smooth out the bead. No sticking!

I'd never use Dicor self leveling caulk on any vertical surfaces and AFAIK Dicor isn't offered in clear, ergo the reason I instead use clear ProFlex non-sag caulk on any vertical joints, just as did Coachmen which manufactured my trailer. Unfortunately Proflex is not only really sticky like Dicor but the non sag formula is quite stiff and begins to set up quite quickly so I've never found that dipping my finger in a bowl of soapy water to help much. 😞

A wet finger will keep the caulk from sticking to your skin. I've found it better to use a tool to smooth joints. The tool is easier to clean and less of a mess than having caulk on my hands.

If your Proflex is very stiff coming out of the tube, heat the tubes before using. One of the advantages of these polymer sealants is that they can be applied in cold weather. I discovered the heating of the tubes in exactly that situation. Also, the Geocel tripolymer sealants need about a week to fully cure. They will remain soft to touch for a few days, depending on ambient temps and humidity.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
My greater issue is trying to do a neat job with the Proflex non sag on the sidewalls ...

Mortimer Brewster wrote:
When working with Dicor on the sidewalls keep a bowl of soapy water nearby. After laying down a thin bead just dip your finger in the water and smooth out the bead. No sticking!

I'd never use Dicor self leveling caulk on any vertical surfaces and AFAIK Dicor isn't offered in clear, ergo the reason I instead use clear ProFlex non-sag caulk on any vertical joints, just as did Coachmen which manufactured my trailer. Unfortunately Proflex is not only really sticky like Dicor but the non sag formula is quite stiff and begins to set up quite quickly so I've never found that dipping my finger in a bowl of soapy water to help much. 😞

[ol__yeller]

Specularius wrote:
What is the difference between the 501 lap sealant and the 502 lap sealant?

1

[Specularius]

What is the difference between the 501 lap sealant and the 502 lap sealant?

[Mortimer_Brewst]

SoundGuy wrote:

Jbrowland wrote:
I guess my comment and or question is this. It doesn't have to look pretty right? As long as it goes on and doesn't leak? I have used the stuff once before and it never fails. It always looks messy and never as good as the original sealant looked and it ends up all over my hands. Is there a secret to stopping it from oozing once it starts!? That stuff is a menace but it "seems" to work. 😉

Don't be too hard on yourself, we're probably all no better at this than you ... remember, you and I do this maybe once or twice a year, factory workers do this 8 hrs a day, day after day, so obviously they're going to get pretty good at it. Personally, I prefer to apply self leveling Dicor and not touch it at all but just let it settle on it's own, pretty or not, and try to avoid the temptation to trowel or smooth it in any way as that (for me at least) just seems to make it worse.

My greater issue is trying to do a neat job with the Proflex non sag on the sidewalls ... I'm no better at that and always seem to end up with a less than ideal application ... sure envy those factory applications! In another month when I get my rig out of winter storage I have a spot I have to redo and I know it's going to be a struggle getting a smooth bead ... so if anyone has any "secrets" to this other than practice, practice, practice I'd sure like to hear them!

When working with Dicor on the sidewalls keep a bowl of soapy water nearby. After laying down a thin bead just dip your finger in the water and smooth out the bead. No sticking!

[Cloud_Dancer]

SoundGuy wrote:

Cloud Dancer wrote:
I like my work to look neat.

Admirable ... but while birds and those in tall buildings may notice I doubt anyone else cares what your trailer roof looks like. 😉

I was supposed to have said it was for me, as I'm the greatest admirer of my work....:B

[SoundGuy]

Cloud Dancer wrote:
I like my work to look neat.

Admirable ... but while birds and those in tall buildings may notice I doubt anyone else cares what your trailer roof looks like. 😉

[rhagfo]

Cloud Dancer wrote:
I've never understood why self-leveling goop has to end up so wide. I always wonder exactly how wide is the crack where the water intrudes.
Oh yeah, I prefer never to use self-leveling goop. I much prefer to clean the crack thoroughly, and apply 3M Marine Sealant/Adhesive into the crack, then cover it with 2" Eternabond. I like my work to look neat.

Well applied correctly, with the understanding how it is designed to work, it can be made to look very neat. One needs to understand how it will come out of the calking tube, as a heavy liquid.

[Cloud_Dancer]

I've never understood why self-leveling goop has to end up so wide. I always wonder exactly how wide is the crack where the water intrudes.
Oh yeah, I prefer never to use self-leveling goop. I much prefer to clean the crack thoroughly, and apply 3M Marine Sealant/Adhesive into the crack, then cover it with 2" Eternabond. I like my work to look neat.

[westend]

I use tubed sealants all the time, have done so for years. When I task a new employee with caulking a joint, there is always a short instructional lesson. Dicor self-leveling is a bit different than most sealants as there needs to be sufficient material dispersed to cover the joint. The rate that it comes out of the gun is the critical part. That is controlled by the size of the hole cut in the application tube, the pressure supplied by the trigger, and the temperature of the sealant. The same is true for seams on siding but less material should be applied.
Most new guys cut an application tube too wide. I start these guys on a tip cut 1/8" wide, just enough to insert the pierce rod in the application tip. That way, a small bead can be applied and smoothed back into the joint without a big smeared mess of sealant. Proflex sealant is very stiff and can be tooled easily after application. Again, start with the least bit of material and control application rates with trigger pressure.

[MrWizard]

Dicor is a bit runny, which is how it self levels
Yeah real messy stuff
The best way to relieve some of the oozing,
Is to immediately release the pressure of the chaulking gun plunger from the bottom of the tube

[Jbrowland]

Thanks for the comments and encouragement folks. I think next time I will have a go with the tape. I think I used way too much Dicor. Oh well. I doubt it will leak though, lol.

[SoundGuy]

Jbrowland wrote:
I guess my comment and or question is this. It doesn't have to look pretty right? As long as it goes on and doesn't leak? I have used the stuff once before and it never fails. It always looks messy and never as good as the original sealant looked and it ends up all over my hands. Is there a secret to stopping it from oozing once it starts!? That stuff is a menace but it "seems" to work. 😉

Don't be too hard on yourself, we're probably all no better at this than you ... remember, you and I do this maybe once or twice a year, factory workers do this 8 hrs a day, day after day, so obviously they're going to get pretty good at it. Personally, I prefer to apply self leveling Dicor and not touch it at all but just let it settle on it's own, pretty or not, and try to avoid the temptation to trowel or smooth it in any way as that (for me at least) just seems to make it worse.

My greater issue is trying to do a neat job with the Proflex non sag on the sidewalls ... I'm no better at that and always seem to end up with a less than ideal application ... sure envy those factory applications! In another month when I get my rig out of winter storage I have a spot I have to redo and I know it's going to be a struggle getting a smooth bead ... so if anyone has any "secrets" to this other than practice, practice, practice I'd sure like to hear them!