Dinghy Towing and brakes

[bayoubelle]

I have a question, we are new to dinghy towing and we are currently trying to find a vehicle that has the capability to tow 4 down. We have a few vehicles in mind, but have a question concerning the brake lights on the toad.

One vehicle requires you to pull the DLIS fuse and another says to disconnect a battery cable. I am pretty sure this means the tail lights will no longer work.

Will they work once the vehicle is attached to the tow bar or do we need to add special tail lights?

Also, on a side note, will odometer register when we tow?

[OLYLEN]

I'm using wireless lights on the toad. I leave the sending unit on the MH all the time and put the lights on the toad for tow. About $150.

LEN

[CA_Traveler]

bayoubelle wrote:
One vehicle requires you to pull the DLIS fuse and another says to disconnect a battery cable. I am pretty sure this means the tail lights will no longer work. You can replace the fuse with a plug, fuse and switch as it is often difficult to replace the fuse.

The toad lights will get their power from the MH. You can install diodes, additional bulbs in the tail light area, magnetic lights etc.


Will they work once the vehicle is attached to the tow bar or do we need to add special tail lights?

Also, on a side note, will odometer register when we tow? Many do not register on the odometer.

My take on newer cars: They are increasingly complex and increasingly require to be charged while towing for nav systems, electric power steering, etc. Battery disconnects may not work or mean you have to reset all lost memory ie nav, radio, etc.

[Butch50]

Horizon170 wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

Horizon170 wrote:
Is the GVWR and GCWR set by the manufacturer? If so is that to make sure the Company is protected rather than what is actually safe.
My, new to me, Class "C" Is within 1000# of the vehicles GVWR So that means that I can't pull an added 2400 pound Fiat plus a tow dolly 600#. If the Mfg. says that I cant then it's BS IMO and perfectly safe with Tow Dolly brakes.
I'll bet that most RV's are well over the GVWR/GCWR and still are perfectly legal according to the States legal axle weights.
Marvin

but what if the lawyer for the person you hit with that "illegal" combination happens to read the data on the GVWR?
bumpy

That is what I'm worried about. I'll have to check with my Attorney on the legality of mfg's GCVW ratings. I wonder if anyone will post that they tow over the GCVW?
Marvin

I'll post as I won't be over either my GVWR nor my GCWR with my new Super C that we pick up next week from the factory. My GVWR is 25,999# and the GCWR is 36,000#. The unit is dry about around 21,000# so we'll have about 5,000# capacity till the GVWR and I'll never be towing 10,000#. Also, yes we have a braking system for the Jeep, it is a RVIbrake2.

[Bumpyroad]

Horizon170 wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

Horizon170 wrote:
Is the GVWR and GCWR set by the manufacturer? If so is that to make sure the Company is protected rather than what is actually safe.
My, new to me, Class "C" Is within 1000# of the vehicles GVWR So that means that I can't pull an added 2400 pound Fiat plus a tow dolly 600#. If the Mfg. says that I cant then it's BS IMO and perfectly safe with Tow Dolly brakes.
I'll bet that most RV's are well over the GVWR/GCWR and still are perfectly legal according to the States legal axle weights.
Marvin

but what if the lawyer for the person you hit with that "illegal" combination happens to read the data on the GVWR?
bumpy

That is what I'm worried about. I'll have to check with my Attorney on the legality of mfg's GCVW ratings. I wonder if anyone will post that they tow over the GCVW?
Marvin

it is not so much the legality, it is the sympathy in court when the lawyer pointed out the gross negligence of the person who hit you. there is a current post of somebody being 2,000 lbs.over. Dewey, Cheatem, and Howe would have a field day with that one.
bumpy

[Horizon170]

Bumpyroad wrote:

Horizon170 wrote:
Is the GVWR and GCWR set by the manufacturer? If so is that to make sure the Company is protected rather than what is actually safe.
My, new to me, Class "C" Is within 1000# of the vehicles GVWR So that means that I can't pull an added 2400 pound Fiat plus a tow dolly 600#. If the Mfg. says that I cant then it's BS IMO and perfectly safe with Tow Dolly brakes.
I'll bet that most RV's are well over the GVWR/GCWR and still are perfectly legal according to the States legal axle weights.
Marvin

but what if the lawyer for the person you hit with that "illegal" combination happens to read the data on the GVWR?
bumpy

That is what I'm worried about. I'll have to check with my Attorney on the legality of mfg's GCVW ratings. I wonder if anyone will post that they tow over the GCVW?
Marvin

[Bumpyroad]

Horizon170 wrote:
Is the GVWR and GCWR set by the manufacturer? If so is that to make sure the Company is protected rather than what is actually safe.
My, new to me, Class "C" Is within 1000# of the vehicles GVWR So that means that I can't pull an added 2400 pound Fiat plus a tow dolly 600#. If the Mfg. says that I cant then it's BS IMO and perfectly safe with Tow Dolly brakes.
I'll bet that most RV's are well over the GVWR/GCWR and still are perfectly legal according to the States legal axle weights.
Marvin

but what if the lawyer for the person you hit with that "illegal" combination happens to read the data on the GVWR?
bumpy

[Horizon170]

Is the GVWR and GCWR set by the manufacturer? If so is that to make sure the Company is protected rather than what is actually safe.
My, new to me, Class "C" Is within 1000# of the vehicles GVWR So that means that I can't pull an added 2400 pound Fiat plus a tow dolly 600#. If the Mfg. says that I cant then it's BS IMO and perfectly safe with Tow Dolly brakes.
I'll bet that most RV's are well over the GVWR/GCWR and still are perfectly legal according to the States legal axle weights.
Marvin

[rk911]

bayoubelle wrote:
...We will be towing with a small Class C, we haven't even bought that yet, so we wanted to keep the weight down, since we are trying to keep the RV under 30"

since you haven't purchased yet may I give you a bit of advice? be very careful when purchasing a MH. understand the weight of the MH as well as it's weight ratings before you start shopping. some of the weight ratings you need to understand are:

- GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating): the maximum weight the chassis can support including itself.

- GCWR (gross combination weight rating): the maximum weight the vehicle can propel including itself.

- GAWR (gross axle weight rating): the maximum weight each axle can support. each axle will have a different GAWR. in a motorhome the sum of the GAWRs will usually, but not always, equal the GVWR.

- GVW (gross vehicle weight): the total weight of the MH as you have loaded it for travel. includes food, fuel, fresh water, clothing, supplies, people, pets and stuff.

- GAW (gross axle weight): the total weight of the above loaded MH on each axle. please note that the GAW on a particular axle should not exceed that axle's GAWR.

- Empty Weight: the weight of the MH with full fuel and LP tanks but which is otherwise empty of food, fresh water, clothing, supplies, people, pets and stuff.

- Payload: the difference between the GVWR and the Empty Weight and represents how much additional weight can be added.

Empty Weight and Payload are older terms that have fallen out of favor with the industry but they are still very relevant.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow (diesel or gas) will be the lesser of the following:

• the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

• the weight rating of your tow bar

• the weight rating of your hitch

this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs...by axle...as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad.

load the MH as you would for a trip including fuel, water, food, clothing, pets, supplies and people. get individual axle weights and compare them to the GAWR for that axle. if either axle is overweight then either move weight to the other axle or eliminate the weight altogether. you need to check individual axle weights because it is possible to be under the GVWR of the MH even if one axle is overweight. I know 'cuz it happened to us.

good luck to you and please continue to post your questions.

[SoCalDesertRid1]

30" is a pretty small RV..

Alot of folks around here tow Suzuki Vitaras, Sidekicks, Samurais, Chevy/GEO Trackers. Those are about as small as you can get, besides a Fiat 500 or Smart Car. Back in the day, my family towed a Fiat X1/9 and a MG Midget, also VW Bugs.

[bayoubelle]

We considered a Jeep, but we really want a smaller vehicle. The Patriot was the smallest one, but we didn't see a lot of positive reviews.

We will be towing with a small Class C, we haven't even bought that yet, so we wanted to keep the weight down, since we are trying to keep the RV under 30"

[SoCalDesertRid1]

Bumpyroad wrote:

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
I have a set of magnetic towing lights that plug into the truck's trailer light wiring plug. The magnetic towing lights usually cost around $40 and are available at various auto parts and trailer supply shops, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, or from lots of online stores.

you can get the magnetics for about $10 at HF on sale. I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.
bumpy

I saw that! They were on sale in the last sales flyer Harbor Freight sent in the mail.

[Dutch_12078]

rk911 wrote:

obgraham wrote:

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.

after a disasterous first-time towing experience with diodes I did the same with my Jeep Wrangler...separate tail light bulbs and a totally independent wiring harness for them used exclusively when towing.

On the other hand, I've been towing RAV4's since 2008 that I've fully wired using diodes so all rear lights function normally including the high center brake light, with zero problems in 45,000+ towing miles. All of my wiring tie-ins were done behind the driver's side kick panel, with no need to route wires all the way to the back.

[rk911]

obgraham wrote:

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.

after a disasterous first-time towing experience with diodes I did the same with my Jeep Wrangler...separate tail light bulbs and a totally independent wiring harness for them used exclusively when towing.

[obgraham]

I will not cut into any of my toads wiring for diodes, etc.

I think likewise.

But the Honda CRV's were nifty in that there was an empty sector in the rear light assembly, so I had a separate tail/brake light placed here with its own wiring.