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Lippert StrapTek WD setup

CHD_Dad
Explorer
Explorer
Didnt see this listed anywhere on here and thought some of you engineers would like to noodle over it!

Lippert StrapTek

Looks to simply replace the chains and snap up bracket of normal WD systems. Not sure how much "better" this would be but its interesting to say the least.
2012 FR Surveyor Sport 295
2015 Nissan NVP 3500 SL 5.6L
Tekonsha P3 / "New" Blue Ox Sway Pro
34 REPLIES 34

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Agreed. Just because etrailer's tech support people weren't there that day doesn't mean that they're gone forever. Try again.

Of course they will probably refer you to Lippert's support because they have never seen that issue either. Since you have already called Lippert, you can arrange a return and refund from etrailer while you're on the phone with them.

Odds are you have some oddball budget spring bars with undersize u-bolts.

Again, this would have been best served by starting a new thread. You already got deltabravo.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
dbshabo wrote:
... I called etrailer but all the tech support people were gone.
Anyone out there have a solution for this problem?


I guess I'd keep calling them, preferably when they are there in the office and not already gone for the day, then I'd ask to get an RMA number, UPS call tag, and a refund.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Terryallan wrote:
I wonder how he got bruised. Did he fall on the tongue, did he trip over the drawbar?


I wondered the same thing. 20+ years of towing with a WD hitch with chain torsion bars and I've never been bruised. I've never heard any noise from my chains.

Press release is over 2 years old. The product must have never gotten popular since I've never heard of it before.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
You probably should have started a new thread, rather than dredge up a two-year-old thread for your separate (though related) issue.

The problem is people will think it is a new discussion and will reply to the original post, ignoring yours.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
What's easier than hooking the trailer up, raising the hitch with your electric jack, swinging the bars onto their L brackets and installing the snap pins? That is all you have to do with the proven Equalizer hitch.

dbshabo
Explorer
Explorer
New travel trailer owner here. I read some positive reviews of the Straptek system and ordered a set.
The set I received from etrailer came with hooks to connect to the u-bolts on the tension bars of my WD hitch. Trouble is the diameter of the hooks is too large to connect to the u-bolts. Called Lippert about it, they have no fix for this problem. I called etrailer but all the tech support people were gone.
Anyone out there have a solution for this problem? I can't believe I'm the first one to encounter this problem. Thanks in advance for any help offered.

Shabo

gijoecam
Explorer
Explorer
I understand the theory behind using the straps as a form of sway control, but in reality, I don't see it working all that well. All it does is shorten the length of the connection between the bar and the frame, which increases the rate at which the connection angle changes front-to-back when turning. In theory, if the trailer moves off-center, the downward force of the spring bars causes a righting moment on the hitch head (fore and aft). In reality, I can't imagine that force being anywhere near the forces generated by the spring bars contacting the friction pads, but I've been wrong before. However, before I buy into the system, I'd want to see some analytical testing of the two side-by-side. Telling me your system is as good as or better than a proven setup that's been around for decades without some sort of data to back it up doesn't fly very far with me...

kennethwooster
Explorer
Explorer
Like previous posts, when I hear the name Lippert I run. Why, problems with axles and frames that they would not repair. I now have a Carriage and got rid of Lippert problems.
kenneth wooster- retired farmer. Biblical History Teacher in public HS, and substitute teacher.
wife Diana-adult probation officer, now retired.
31KSLS Full Body paint Cameo
Ford F350 2014 DRW 4X4 King Ranch.
20K B&W Puck mount hitch

Highway_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
My TT has way too much on it now made by Lippert or a co that they own. Windows, doors, TV & stero, steps, stabilizers, axles, and I am sure there are others. If the frame was Lippert I would not have bought it. I see Lippert as the Wallmart of the RV industry. Lippert will some day own a RV mfg. If you are going to be buying a new RV in the future you might want to think about it. Not me, this is my last one.
2014 Ram Cummins Laramie, Crew cab, 4x4, Loaded, Snugtop camper
2014 OutdoorsRV Wind River 250RDSW
Big spoiled Bernese Mountain Dog

7and7
Explorer
Explorer
I understand your concern as it was mine also, so I did my own test. I hooked up the old Outback and done some measuring just to see what happens back there. I set everything in a nice straight line and marked the position of everything. What I found was this, center to center at the head where the spring bars pivot is 6".
My U-bolts were at 30" from the center of the ball coupler back on the draw bars.
Turning the truck as sharp as possible, left or right, the U-bolt moved anywhere from 27 1/2" to 32 1/2". That ring on the end of the strap, top to bottom, is 3". If you watch while its being turned it will control the spring bar through the entire turn. You can see the spring bars being pulled up as you turn and thats where I believe the sway control comes in to play. The extra tension forces the spring bar back into position.

VegasScotty
Explorer
Explorer
7and7 wrote:
Hey VegasScotty, With the straptek there is no need to use the cams. Get the strap ring raised as high as you can, up to the bottom of the winch, and it will control the sway. The first time I tried it I admit was a little scary. Set it up and hit the road. I have been using mine all summer with no alturnative sway control. I think you'll be impressed!
I forgot to mention, there is two u-bolt holes in your spring bars. Take your u-bolts out of your current hangers and use them to mount your strap directly to the spring bars,take the cams clear off.


I've been thinking about this and I even connected the straps to the bars without my Reese sway-control cams... but I put the cams back on, here's why:
- First, someone somewhere a lot smarter than me threw his engineering knowledge at this and came up with a good sway control system... who am I to disagree?
- Reese says to use 5 or 6 links on the chain and I think part of this is for clearance. If the chain (or in this case the strap) is too short some rigs will have clearance issues between the WD bar and the bottom of the tongue/frame.
- Reese says to use 5 or 6 links in the chain and I wonder (not really so sure) if some of this isn't for movement to prevent putting too much torque on the hitch head. In a sharp turn, the inside WD bar will move or push backwards and the outside bar will pull forward. If there isn't enough play I feel like there would be too much pressure on the hitch. In the same vein I wonder how much weight/pressure is being applied to the strap (or chain) mounting bracket on the frame?
- So I really worry about safety if I crank the straps way high and way short... and beside, I paid a lot for the cams, I want to feel like I'm getting my money's worth out of them. ๐Ÿ™‚
Scott.n.Tira from Las Vegas
2021 GD Imagine 2670MK
2012 F250 4x4 6.2 LB

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
^^^^really good post right there.^^^^^^^
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
I know this is an older post. These three posters have it 100% right:

Jim Cindy wrote:
The name says it all. Putting Lippert and Tek in the same statement is a certain recipe for an idea that won't work very well or for very long.

ReferDog wrote:
past history of there frames leave doubt for me. New Idea is great, will wait for proof in time and use.

TXiceman wrote:
Like others have noted, the name Lippert is a turn off to me. Ken...retired mechanical engineer.


I could tell you a good story about why not to use Lippert, but I won't. They build the lightest, the thinnest and the cheapest item they can, whether it's a frame or accessories, much of which is made off-shore. They do not have to comply with any industry (ASME, CSA, ANSI, etc.) or governmental regulations or standards and they can and do build things to whatever quality level they want without having to answer to anyone. And if something breaks, it's your fault, not theirs.

I'm all for innovative and new products that fill a need or are an improvement, but if it has the Lippert name on it, if I have a choice I will avoid it. I can't see this product being an improvement over the old tried and true chain and snap-up brackets. JMHO as a registered prof. engineer (retired).

7and7
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Fixed Sight Training, If you need any help, give me a holler, I've been mess'en with Straptek all summer.