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Looking for portable electric space heater for rv!

precioustime
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a 34’ class A motor home with its built in gas heater. running on propane gas. I’m looking for a good space heater to place on the floor, electric that I could place near me only when I’m awake and watching tv. Something compact, electric and capable of heating the area around us.
51 REPLIES 51

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


I can't stand those "RV" style electrical outlets. High chance of a fire if the RV assembly guy didn't seat the wires correctly.

I went a step further and added a new outlet on a dedicated circuit which I show in detail in this video

I did it again in my truck camper last month.

The primary purpose of these new outlets is a dedicated circuit for a space heater


Nice work. I'm surprised that UL and CSA actually approve those receptacles for 15A, just looking to light on fire.

mr__ed
Explorer
Explorer
cummins2014 wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Well if I was -30 I might worry about furnace not heating. It would be easy pesey to hook a 120 to 12 volt transformer and a relay in the switch wiring harness.


I got the best solution, stay the heck out of -30 weather . There was a reason why our family moved from northern Montana :B


X2. I've always wintered in the Southwest (like AZ) and moved to higher elevations or other parts of the country in summer. I like warmer weather, if I can get it. One reason to own an RV is ability to move where you're comfortable. I understand that some folks like to camp where it's freezing cold. Good for them! :B
Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition (sold)

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
1500 watts is going to yield about 5118 btu's. It is about what a heat strip may provide.

I did a test a lot of years ago now on heat loss from an RV.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

AJR
Explorer
Explorer
Going back to the OP question. One or two 1500W heater running at 750W will keep most class C RVs warm at say 25 degrees for a night.
2007 Roadtrek 210 Popular
2015 GMC Terrain AWD

mr__ed
Explorer
Explorer
agesilaus wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Almost any small heater will meet your needs. Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


Ditto we were up in NC during a November cold snap down to 25 and just went out and bought a $20 Walmart 1500W heater. So far as I can tell they are all functionally the same. Get one with a blower. It heated the Arctic Fox so hot that we had to turn it on low and run the thermostat up to keep it off.


I have the same Walmart heater and it works very well. Also has tip-over protection, which shuts it off if accidentally knocked over. Can also run fan only without heat.
Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition (sold)

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
deltabravo,

I added 15 amp and 20 amp auxiliary shore power cords. That's the only reason I can heat 100% electrically. If there are enough outlets on separate circuits I have a minimum of 45 amps (15 x 3). That keeps me comfy to -30 C. Below that, I need one outlet to be 30 amps with the autoformer in use.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
pianotuna wrote:
Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


I can't stand those "RV" style electrical outlets. High chance of a fire if the RV assembly guy didn't seat the wires correctly.

I went a step further and added a new outlet on a dedicated circuit which I show in detail in this video

I did it again in my truck camper last month.

The primary purpose of these new outlets is a dedicated circuit for a space heater
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Well if I was -30 I might worry about furnace not heating. It would be easy pesey to hook a 120 to 12 volt transformer and a relay in the switch wiring harness.


I got the best solution, stay the heck out of -30 weather . There was a reason why our family moved from northern Montana :B

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Well if I was -30 I might worry about furnace not heating. It would be easy pesey to hook a 120 to 12 volt transformer and a relay in the switch wiring harness.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Cummins,

I can already heat 100% electrically, so I have no need of the cheap (but expensive to buy) heat. And I can do it at -37 c (-34 f).

Of course, if the power goes out the propane furnace will keep my RV from freezing up for about 4 days. After that, I'd have to run the motor on my class C. Fortunately the Ford V-10 doesn't mind being idled.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Propane runs out you are screwed. Power goes out, power comes back on it still works.

Ok you don’t like it that’s fine. Own it you may like it.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would recommend Cheap Heat as well.

As I said RV wiring is not really up to 1500 watts less, like me, you add special outlets.

Since Heaters tend to fail at 3AM not 3pm and rarley on a day where you can get 'em on sale.. I had some spares in my RV.. Just took one used and 4 brand new in the box to the Salvation Army (Davison, MI) If you are in the area they will be cheap. (I am not interested in selling stuff like this.. But I do have some stuff I will either sell or hand to another RVer no charge. but I'm not into shipping so I'll do it via a local cork board)
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times