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Nervous Nelly Newbie

innermusic
Explorer
Explorer
Bought my first TT and brought it home today. I noticed that when I look at the truck hooked up to the TT from the side, the TT angles downward toward the hitch somewhat. Is this normal, or is the whole thing supposed to be relatively level?

It's a class IV hitch that was factory installed when I got my f-150. The tongue is a 2 1/2" drop.

Thanks!
14 REPLIES 14

innermusic
Explorer
Explorer
Yep. All of the above. Also... the electric trailer brake was not set up (no controller) so I was driving around with no trailer brakes working. So I had a controller installed as well.

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Good.

If you bought that trailer from an RV dealer, I am surprised that they let you off the lot without selling you a WD hitch.

That trailer absolutely NEEDS a WD hitch with that truck. Your F150's factory receiver is only rated to 500lbs of tongue weight without a WD hitch, and that trailer certainly has more than 500lbs of tongue weight. Not only would you risk overstressing the receiver, you would also experience a mushy, bouncy ride.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

innermusic
Explorer
Explorer
OK finally opted for a WD hitch. Makes a difference.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Well if you are just going to change the dials/knobs...note that an instability 'might'
manifest itself when raising the ball/tongue...go back to a slightly nose down
as you have right now

You are fixing something that seems to not be broken...

There were a few other threads from both newbies and an old timer who asked and
they went into this mode...re-dialing it in without knowing the goal...

Meaning do you know the why of these adjustments? It's not just for
the looks, but for some change and benefit to the handling of the setup
that these adjustments are made

They added/removed links, tilted the head both back and forward, changed bar
ratings, raised/lowered the ball/tongue, increased and/or reduced weight off their
TV's front axle and a big ETC

Good luck with the knobs...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
I don't see any WD bars. Unless you have an Equal-I-Zer or Reese SC weight-distributing hitch system installed, then the bars would be invisible in that picture with the lighting.

Is this just a normal straight hitch shank?

If so it will go from 2-1/2" drop to 1/2" rise.

You might want to consider a Weight-Distributing hitch with integrated sway control instead of a straight ball.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

ECones
Explorer
Explorer
innermusic wrote:
Thanks for the replies.
To raise the ball: This tongue has a 2 inch drop. Do I need to get a different tongue? Or can I invert this one so instead of dropping 2 inches it is RAISING 2 inches? (Sorry for the dumb questions.)


I'm a newbie as well, and if you think this is a dumb question, search out some of mine ๐Ÿ˜‰

If you have a simple drop hitch and flip it, you'll raise it 4" -- from 2" drop to 2" rise. From the photo, I'd say that's too much. Do you have a 1" drop you could try?

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
You can invert the shank and use it either up or down. I agree witht he others that you need to raise the front and the proper way to do this is to move it up on the shank.

If the shank is pointed down and there is not another higher hole to use, then turn the shank around so it points up. You can usually find a hole that will let you get the trailer just about level.

I am assuming you are using a weight distributing hitch that has an adjustable shank. If you are simply using a drawbar with a ball on the end, and it sounds like that may be the case, then you need to purchase a shank and a WD hitch to use on that trailer.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

innermusic
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the replies.
To raise the ball: This tongue has a 2 inch drop. Do I need to get a different tongue? Or can I invert this one so instead of dropping 2 inches it is RAISING 2 inches? (Sorry for the dumb questions.)

mrkoje
Explorer
Explorer
Truck doesn't look bad just the ball is too low. Like the others have said I would consider raising the ball a tad.
RAPTOR 300MP
RAM 3500 MEGA CTD 4X4

CampingN_C_
Explorer
Explorer
coolbreeze01 wrote:
Raise the ball an inch and take another pic.


X2

I bet it'll be perfect.
2018 Ram 3500 DRW CCLB Aisin 4.10 4x4

2018 Jayco Talon 413T
B&W Companion

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
Raise the ball an inch and take another pic.
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

innermusic
Explorer
Explorer
ECones wrote:
These folks will need a lot more info, but I'll ask the first question.

How much does your hitch sag with the trailer on it?

Here is a picture. The trailer definitely leans forward. http://ksteveh.tripod.com/truck_and_trailer.jpg

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Welcome to the Portal!!!

So much depends...and you have lots to read up on. This portal (rv.net,
woodalls.com, etc) is a good one...but learn to listen to the advice
that sounds good to you AND decide if you believe in the specializations,
ratings system, etc

If not, then do whatever you wish, but know that doing that will
relieve the OEMs from the hook (warranty and liability)

If yes, then read and learn HOW2 on sizing to your TV's ratings, the
brake controller, and tons of ETC...a bit academic since you have
already purchased the setup, but important for you to proceed. Suggest
still gathering the specifications for both your TV and Trailer and
going out to actually weigh the whole setup (fully loaded and empty)

Depends...because the WD spring bars (if you have them) and the amount
of weight transferred (WD'd...weight distributed) needs to be in the
correct 'range'

The orientation of the trailers tongue should be level at it's highest
pointing, to slightly down...when the WD adjustments are in the correct
range

Yours is a very, very common question and here is a good stating
point for you:


New member with some confusion


BenK wrote:
Welcome to the portal !

First note that I do NOT say no you can't, nor sure you can...because
there is only one person responsible for the setup...the driver and
that might not be the OP, but their partner or whomever is driving

So provide the metrics on HOW2...

There are many oblique thoughts and beliefs on the ratings system. From
what is 'dry' to what is 'curb' to what is the actual 'payload/cargo', etc

Second, decide if you believe in the ratings system or not

If not, then do whatever, but know that you have taken the OEM off both
the warranty and liability hook

If yes, then read up and learn HOW2 figure it out

Simple math, but requires actual weights and why some have suggested
going out and actually weighing your setup (TV & trailer) axle by axle

Here is how the ratings system looks like in graphical form and another
note: folks take one of those ratings out of context. Either without
regard to the interdependence's of other ratings as either prerequisites
or as an absolute

It is 'system' and everything plays together in a give and take way
Meaning that if you wish to take the MTWR (max tow weight rating)...then
you have to give up loading up the TV to it's GVWR and reduce the
TV's weight


howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

ECones
Explorer
Explorer
These folks will need a lot more info, but I'll ask the first question.

How much does your hitch sag with the trailer on it?