New to WDH and sway control

[Bobbo]

I am picking up a new Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB on 4/27. Dry weight is 4806 with LP and batteries. Hitch weight is 467 with LP and batteries. GVWR is 6000 pounds. All of the towing I have ever done was with a dead weight hitch so I am unsure of any differences. I have been watching videos on YouTube, but am still unsure.

Question: Do I need to disconnect anything before backing the trailer? Either a small back, or a sharp back like turning in to the campsite?

Anything else that is different from a dead weight tow?

If it matters, I am driving a 2002 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 extended cab with the short box. Tow limit is 5000 pounds since it doesn't have the tow package that would have made it 6100 pounds. Hitch has WD limits of 10,000/1,000. The Chevy does have an auxiliary transmission oil cooler though. We are going to buy a 2017 F-150 with Max Tow Package, but not immediately.

I don't know yet what WD hitch or sway control I am getting. The dealer is providing and installing them as part of the deal.

Thanks.

[dodge_guy]

Bobbo wrote:
Good news. The salesman said it was a Reese. He didn't have a clue about the terms "round bar", "trunnion", "friction" or "cam."

Then it is just a Reese WD hitch and maybe a friction bar. Chances are that they don't even know how to setup a Dual Cam. The DC on that size trailer will tow very good. Also be sure you have at least 12% of the trailers loaded weight for tongue weight. The tongue weight you mentioned is less than the required 10%, 12% is the number to shoot for.

[humblerb]

Our first dealer told us the same thing about the friction sway bar.
I always tried to remember to remove it before backing.
A few times, I did forget until I was in the turn already.
Nothing bad has happened yet, but not a chance I would take intentionally.
If I am backing a short distance and in a straight (fairly straight) line, I won't remove it. But if I am making a turn, I always remove it.
I certainly have never been in a situation where I needed sway control while backing up. 🙂

[Hannibal]

Good deal on the Reese! That Airstream should tow like a champ with any hitch. We just returned from a short vacation and unhitched a few minutes ago. I like the ease of hitching and unhitching with the trunion style reese. It's going to be a long seven days!

[Bobbo]

Good news. The salesman said it was a Reese. He didn't have a clue about the terms "round bar", "trunnion", "friction" or "cam."

[aftermath]

I am also on the Airstream forum and like any forum you have to weigh all the comments. They seem to think that since you have an Airstream you need to jump in and spend 2 to 3K on a hitch. If you had a really big trailer, maybe that is the way to go.

I tow my 25 with an Equalizer and really like how it works. It is easy to connect and disconnect, you can back it up and I have never had a white knuckle experience in over 40K miles towing.

You are going to like your trailer. They tow really well. I had a Starcraft hybrid that was 5 feet shorter and about a ton lighter. The Airstream tows much better and I am getting just about the same mileage now.

[Bobbo]

RamRider wrote:
I use a Blue Ox WDH with our Airstream which provides excellent sway control with out the add on bars that some WDH require. If you have not done it yet I recommend checking out the Airstream Forum (airforums) to see other options with the FC 23. However I believe that the Good Sam forum members provide better advice when it comes to towing issues.

I am on the airstream forums for trailer specific questions. I have had many airstream questions answered over there. And I agree that this is the better forum for a general topic, like WDH and sway control. :B

[RamRider]

I use a Blue Ox WDH with our Airstream which provides excellent sway control with out the add on bars that some WDH require. If you have not done it yet I recommend checking out the Airstream Forum (airforums) to see other options with the FC 23. However I believe that the Good Sam forum members provide better advice when it comes to towing issues.

[Hannibal]

Bobbo wrote:
OK. I will call tomorrow and ask what brand they use. If I don't like it, I will buy one and have them install it. I am thinking Reese Trunion WDH with Reese DC.

This is my first choice. I bought a Reese HP trunion style for our TT. It's the DC without the sway control arms. It has the integrated cams in the bars in case I decide to add the sway control arms later on. Congrats on the new Airstream! My envy meter is pegged! :B

[Bobbo]

OK. I will call tomorrow and ask what brand they use. If I don't like it, I will buy one and have them install it. I am thinking Reese Trunion WDH with Reese DC.

[DutchmenSport]

bikendan has it right. Actually, you can back up with just about any weight distribution system. However, if you use the friction sway bar, then it's recommended you remove the bar before backing up. When we had an old style Reese hitch, we used the friction sway bar. I never backed with it attached, even if it was just a few feet. I always took the time to take it off. Why? My dealer (at that time I purchased it), said it's possible the reverse motion with the right turn (especially a near jack knife situation), could break the small ball mount on the hitch head (if it got into a bind). So, I followed his advise.

With my Equal-i-zer now, nothing has to be removed.

Friction sway bar:

[bikendan]

Some old technology WDHs, that have add-on friction bars, require you to disconnect the bars before backing up.
Modern technology WDHs with integrated sway control, like the Equal-i-zer, don't need anything disconnected.

So it depends on what WDH the dealer is installing.