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New Trailer Needs New Coupler

EagleScout-USA
Explorer
Explorer
I previously posted some negative and difficult experiences with unhitching our new trailer, and am grateful for all of the suggestions in doing so. Unfortunately, none of them worked. Prior to departing for the holiday weekend, I made an appointment with my dealer to actually witness them unhook my trailer. They were unable to do so in their flat parking lot. It was determined to be a bad/defective coupler. They plan to have me drop off my trailer in next week (I will have them unhook it!) and bring in a local welding company to weld on a new coupler. I think that I am comfortable with this, but does anyone have any thoughts or reasons as to why I should be nervous. The company they will bring in is a name I have heard before, and is said to be one of the best locally. Thanks!
10 REPLIES 10

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
myredracer wrote:
If it turns out the only answer is to replace the coupler, I would get a Bulldog coupler installed.



The above coupler is not what I'd want on a travel trailer. If you want something that's very difficult to operate, those are the ones to get.

I had a flatbed trailer with one of those and I hated it. I always had to kick it with my foot to get the slide mechanism to release. Lubing it made no difference.
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mowin
Explorer
Explorer
Not all couplers have internals that can be swaped out. I have a equipment trailer that I purchased new 3 yrs ago, and it was impossible to hitch/unhitch without a hammer to help things along. There was no way to replace the internals, so the dealer welded on a new coupler.

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
ScottG wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
Just curious why the said it needs a new coupler. I thought couplers could be repaired with new parts internally.
If it were me, I would remove the moving parts form a new coupler and install them on the old one before cutting. I seriously doubt there's anything wrong with the housing itself.

X3


X4

Unless the coupler is visibly damaged, why replace it and not replace the mechanism in it? I would be extremely leary of a dealer bringing in an unknown welder. I would suggest calling Lippert and asking them about this before anything is done.

We had a bad experience with our dealer installing shocks on our new 2014 TT. Had the shocks, parts and detailed installation drawing in hand but they insisted on sending our TT to a suspension shop down the street who ended up botching the job (very straightforward job). Two trips back to the shop and it still wasn't right and ended up fixing it myself. The dealer refused to accept responsibility despite us paying them for the work and told us to work it out with the shop. I will no longer trust a dealer to get things right, and I especially wouldn't for something as invasive and critical as welding a coupler on your frame.

If it turns out the only answer is to replace the coupler, I would get a Bulldog coupler installed.

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you had the correct repair kit for the coupler, it might be an easy fix. Never heard of having to weld on an entire coupler unless it got smashed or damaged.
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EagleScout-USA
Explorer
Explorer
Wow...not really sure why they can't replace the moving parts. But it will not hurt to ask. I will follow up when I have additional information.

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
Just curious why the said it needs a new coupler. I thought couplers could be repaired with new parts internally.


If it were me, I would remove the moving parts form a new coupler and install them on the old one before cutting. I seriously doubt there's anything wrong with the housing itself.


X3
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ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Ron3rd wrote:
Just curious why the said it needs a new coupler. I thought couplers could be repaired with new parts internally.


If it were me, I would remove the moving parts form a new coupler and install them on the old one before cutting. I seriously doubt there's anything wrong with the housing itself.

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just curious why the said it needs a new coupler. I thought couplers could be repaired with new parts internally.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
A good welder will be able to grind away the old welds, and heat the metal, to cause it to break away from the factory frame material. It might take a couple of hours work, but it can be done in the parking lot of the dealership.

Welding the new one on is not all that difficult either, and any certified welder can do that sort of job. Chances are that the frame is not heat treated, and everything will be fine. But do check the welds after about 3 trips carefully, and again say in 3-4 months. If the paint is cracking, then take it by the welding shop for further inspection. If the paint is fine, then the welds under it will be OK too.

Stress cracks would show up first as rusty areas under the paint where water will accumulate and the paint should be flaking away. Chances are this will not happen, but that is what you would be looking for in 3-6 months. If you do not find anything (I suspect this will happen) all will be fine.

There have been a few members who's truck mounted hitch failed, and looking at pictures of the failed hitch, one can see that the paint cracked off and it was rusty for some time before hitch failure, and the item fell apart. A yearly inspection or having some clue of what to look for should have prevented the problem when the owner started seeing rust and flaking off paint - before the failure point.

Good luck!

Fred.
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mbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Not an issue with a competent welder. Welding a new coupler on isn't the problem, it's getting the old one off.
Out of curiosity, who's the dealer?
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