rv fridge

[machunt]

If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?

[valhalla360]

Dedmiston is pretty much correct, though you could argue some of the semantics.

A traditional RV absorption fridge is still a great option for boondocking. It's needs a tiny amount of 12v DC power to run the control board and a tank of propane is good for weeks of operation. Downside is they are slow to cool the interior. If you are on shore power, there is an electric heating element that replaces the heat from the propane flame. Some even have a 12v heating element but that's pretty inefficient.

Then you have 12v DC fridges. These can run directly off battery power and because they were designed for low power consumption are probably the best option for running off electricity without shorepower. They still use far more power than the control board on an absorption fridge but a decent battery bank and/or connection via the umbilical cable to the trucks alternator output is typically plenty to keep then going. If you want to spend multiple days off grid, you will need a means of generating power before your battery bank dies (most commonly solar or generator) but no need for an inverter.

Then you have residential 120v AC fridges. Newer ones are generally not quite as good as 12v fridges in terms of efficiency but not horrible. A downside is you need an inverter to convert the 12v DC to 120v AC. That adds, cost, complication and you will likely lose some power to the conversion.

If you are always on shore power when parked, a residential fridge is a fine option. They will hold cold during driving days just fine.
If you will boondock a lot, absorption is still the ideal but if you put in a good solar system with an upsized battery bank, 12v is very much viable.

Many newer RV's (even entry level) are switching to 12v.

[dedmiston]

JRscooby wrote:
I would question your definition of "a lot of power". My absorption fridge works just fine on the excess power generated by the alternator. Compressor fridge is known to use less power.

I’m thinking of the dozens of threads I’ve seen here from people frustrated about the fact that their residential fridge drains their batteries during the day (if, and that’s a big if, they even have an inverter and can run it while they drive) and they wish their dealer had explained to them that they don’t have enough power to drive from Point A to Point B and that they can’t boondock without running their gen all night. It’s enough firsthand accounts of frustration to indicate that the residential fridges draw more power than most people are equipped with, at least not until they invest in a lot of upgrades.

[Gonzo42]

If you can afford it, spring for a unit that will power by 12 VDC, 120 VAC, and propane. We have one that runs on 120 VAC or propane and switches automatically.

[JRscooby]

dedmiston wrote:

larry cad wrote:

dedmiston wrote:
A fridge needs a power source. An RV fridge can run on electric or LP. The residential fridge only runs on electricity.

Unless you have a really long extension cord, you need a power source on the road and when you’re camped. Even if you have hookups at night, you still need power in the road:

- Lots of DC power in your batteries
- An inverter to run the fridge on AC
- Solar panels to recharge the batteries while you drive

It’s all possible, but not cheap.

We have 700w of solar, a nice big inverter, and four 6v batteries. This works well for us when we boondock, but I wouldn’t want to run a residential fridge all day when we need the juice at night.

We’ve been dry camping most of this week and I’ve only run the generator about 45 minutes so far to power my wife’s tea kettle, her hair dryer, and my coffee pot sometimes. This would be totally different if we were powering a fridge too.

To the OP, this post is full of errors and misleading advice. If I were you, I would ignore it and continue on your quest for correct technical information.

Got specifics?

Or got a mini-nuke plant in your RV for power? Or a long extension cord for the fridge?

I would question your definition of "a lot of power". My absorption fridge works just fine on the excess power generated by the alternator. Compressor fridge is known to use less power.

[philh]

Didn't see a suggestion on a 12V compressor fridge which is a nice compromise between 120V and absorption 12v/propane fridge.

[dedmiston]

larry cad wrote:

dedmiston wrote:
A fridge needs a power source. An RV fridge can run on electric or LP. The residential fridge only runs on electricity.

Unless you have a really long extension cord, you need a power source on the road and when you’re camped. Even if you have hookups at night, you still need power in the road:

- Lots of DC power in your batteries
- An inverter to run the fridge on AC
- Solar panels to recharge the batteries while you drive

It’s all possible, but not cheap.

We have 700w of solar, a nice big inverter, and four 6v batteries. This works well for us when we boondock, but I wouldn’t want to run a residential fridge all day when we need the juice at night.

We’ve been dry camping most of this week and I’ve only run the generator about 45 minutes so far to power my wife’s tea kettle, her hair dryer, and my coffee pot sometimes. This would be totally different if we were powering a fridge too.

To the OP, this post is full of errors and misleading advice. If I were you, I would ignore it and continue on your quest for correct technical information.

Got specifics?

Or got a mini-nuke plant in your RV for power? Or a long extension cord for the fridge?

[rk911]

machunt wrote:
If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?

yes. or plug the RV into electric.

[larry_cad]

machunt wrote:
i agree ,,,maybe i wasnt clear. plugging in at home is not a option. never mind why. I know i could buy a genny and plug it in at the storage lot. but my concern is while traveling what can i do to keep fridge cold?

First off, we don't know what kind of RV you have so it is difficult to make suggestions that are appropriate, however, in most cases, the easiest way is to use an inverter. Your alternator will keep your batteries charged, and the batteries can connect to the inverter which can power your residential fridge.

There may be circumstances where you don't need to power the fridge during travel, depending on where you are going and how long it will take you. The residential fridge doesn't warm up instantly, and in some cases, you can unplug at home, and plug in at the destination and everything will be ok.

At this point, it difficult to make any specific recommendations without knowing more about your rig. The above description is about as simple as it can be made to get.

[machunt]

i agree ,,,maybe i wasnt clear. plugging in at home is not a option. never mind why. I know i could buy a genny and plug it in at the storage lot. but my concern is while traveling what can i do to keep fridge cold?

[larry_cad]

dedmiston wrote:
A fridge needs a power source. An RV fridge can run on electric or LP. The residential fridge only runs on electricity.

Unless you have a really long extension cord, you need a power source on the road and when you’re camped. Even if you have hookups at night, you still need power in the road:

- Lots of DC power in your batteries
- An inverter to run the fridge on AC
- Solar panels to recharge the batteries while you drive

It’s all possible, but not cheap.

We have 700w of solar, a nice big inverter, and four 6v batteries. This works well for us when we boondock, but I wouldn’t want to run a residential fridge all day when we need the juice at night.

We’ve been dry camping most of this week and I’ve only run the generator about 45 minutes so far to power my wife’s tea kettle, her hair dryer, and my coffee pot sometimes. This would be totally different if we were powering a fridge too.

To the OP, this post is full of errors and misleading advice. If I were you, I would ignore it and continue on your quest for correct technical information.

[dedmiston]

A fridge needs a power source. An RV fridge can run on electric or LP. The residential fridge only runs on electricity.

Unless you have a really long extension cord, you need a power source on the road and when you’re camped. Even if you have hookups at night, you still need power in the road:

- Lots of DC power in your batteries
- An inverter to run the fridge on AC
- Solar panels to recharge the batteries while you drive

It’s all possible, but not cheap.

We have 700w of solar, a nice big inverter, and four 6v batteries. This works well for us when we boondock, but I wouldn’t want to run a residential fridge all day when we need the juice at night.

We’ve been dry camping most of this week and I’ve only run the generator about 45 minutes so far to power my wife’s tea kettle, her hair dryer, and my coffee pot sometimes. This would be totally different if we were powering a fridge too.

[AllegroD]

I would add one thing to what the Fisherman said. Check the plugs by your current fridge to see if there is an inverted socket. Should be one but not all RV are created equal. An RR actually cools down just like the house fridge, as that is what it is. Much, much faster and constant than a standard RV fridge.

[Fisherman]

Plug the trailer in at home, plug the fridge in at the back where the other came out. Now if you're boondocking then you will either have to run the genny or inverter with a couple good sized batteries.