Safety issue ????

[Tin-bender]

Just bought a new travel trailer and I find that the quick disconnect for the outdoor BBQ is stubbed out in the back of the wheel well subject to possible extreme damage in the case of a blow out.

I know some would say to travel with the tanks shut off and there would be no problem, but that is not what I do.... I think that the best solution is to remove it and cap it off.

Just seems like a strange thing for a manufacture to do based on the history of trailer tires.

Any thoughts on this situation out there.
Tinbender

[Bobbo]

ependydad wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I did exactly the same thing. However, I also bought a hose with a propane regulator built in so I can still use a 20# (or disposable) propane bottle if I so desire. One extra hose to carry doesn't take up much room.

Funny. I lent out my grill yesterday and the recipient didn't have a quick connect. I do have a little pig tail for a quick connect to small green bottle. But I was surprised at how low flow it was and how little the flame was vs. when it's hooked up to my camper.

I might look at the adapter you have. I carry a little 11 lb. bottle that could be used instead of the little green ones.

LOL. I have two of the 1 gallon (4 pound) propane tanks. I have had them for YEARS. I got them before I had an RV with a low pressure propane connection. They fit in my previous RV's basement, and a 20 pound tank wouldn't.

[JesLookin]

ependydad wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
I did exactly the same thing. However, I also bought a hose with a propane regulator built in so I can still use a 20# (or disposable) propane bottle if I so desire. One extra hose to carry doesn't take up much room.

Funny. I lent out my grill yesterday and the recipient didn't have a quick connect. I do have a little pig tail for a quick connect to small green bottle. But I was surprised at how low flow it was and how little the flame was vs. when it's hooked up to my camper.

I might look at the adapter you have. I carry a little 11 lb. bottle that could be used instead of the little green ones.

Regarding the low heat output of the grill, here is a response from Weber that addresses the low heat problem:

I'm sorry to hear your grill is giving you problems. There could be several issues that could cause this sort of problem. Let's try to fix the problem with the follow suggestions. Do you preheat the grill with the lid up or down? If you grill with the lid down there is a possibility that you have inadvertently triggered the safety device in the adapter hose. This safety device is designed to detect leaks. If the grill is leaking, it will restrict gas flow to prevent a fire. When the gas is restricted, the grill will only reach about 250 degrees. This safety device can be inadvertently triggered if the grill is turned on too quickly.

To reset the gas safety device:
Open the barbecue lid.
1. Close the LP tank valve.
2. Turn your burner control knob to the OFF position.
3. Wait at least 5 minutes if the barbecue had been lit, then
4. Disconnect the gas source
5. Turn your burner control knob to the HIGH position.
6. Wait at least 2 minutes, and then turn the burner control knob to the OFF position.
7. Re-connect the gas source

The grill was designed for the small, disposable tanks. If you choose to use an adapter hose for the larger propane tanks, there are some simple rules to follow to ensure that the grill works properly. Please follow this procedure every time you turn the grill on and off.

Re-lighting the barbecue:
1. Open the barbecue lid.
2. Open the LP tank valve all the way and wait 1 minute.
3. With the lid open, turn the burner control knob to the HIGH position.
4. Ignite the grill by pushing the crossover ignition button.
5. Close the barbecue lid.
6. The barbecue should reach 500 to 550 degrees in 10-15 minutes.

When you are done grilling:
1. Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
2. Turn off the LP tank valve last. The tank should be turned off after EVERY grill use.

[spoon059]

Ralph Cramden wrote:

Tin-bender wrote:

Any thoughts on this situation out there.

Don't overthink it, and don't buy into the RV.net general policy of over complicating the uncomplicated. I would not worry about it.

WHAT??? THE SKY ISN'T FALLING???

Seriously though, if this was an issue we would be more aware of it. I've trailered since 2011, always with propane on for fridge, and most of it with a propane disconnect directly behind my tire. Never once had a problem, never once worried about it.

[ependydad]

Bobbo wrote:
I did exactly the same thing. However, I also bought a hose with a propane regulator built in so I can still use a 20# (or disposable) propane bottle if I so desire. One extra hose to carry doesn't take up much room.

Funny. I lent out my grill yesterday and the recipient didn't have a quick connect. I do have a little pig tail for a quick connect to small green bottle. But I was surprised at how low flow it was and how little the flame was vs. when it's hooked up to my camper.

I might look at the adapter you have. I carry a little 11 lb. bottle that could be used instead of the little green ones.

[Bobbo]

ependydad wrote:
I use my quick connect with my Weber Grill all the time. I'd move it to somewhere more convenient and definitely not get rid of it.

I did exactly the same thing. However, I also bought a hose with a propane regulator built in so I can still use a 20# (or disposable) propane bottle if I so desire. One extra hose to carry doesn't take up much room.

[ependydad]

I use my quick connect with my Weber Grill all the time. I'd move it to somewhere more convenient and definitely not get rid of it.

[Community Alumni]

I have seen one propane connection on a friends rig that got bent backwards after getting caught on something at a camp. She did have it removed,

You could also have it redone and moved to another area but I agree go ahead and remove it. Just my 2¢

jim

[Old-Biscuit]

Do what you think is best.........

RV Propane System has built in safety features/devices that exceed those of vehicle fuel system
Excess Flow Limiting Devices, Thermal Bushings, Spring Loaded Shutoff Valves, Overfill Protection Devices, .
And the system pressure is only 0.4 psi (you can whistle harder then that)

But do what you think is best....

[Bobbo]

Personally, I would not worry about it, and would leave it well enough alone. However, if you are the type to lose sleep over it, follow the pipe upstream, find a convenient place, and put a shut-off valve in line with it. Keep that shut-off valve turned off unless you are using that propane port.

[Ralph_Cramden]

Tin-bender wrote:

Any thoughts on this situation out there.

Don't overthink it, and don't buy into the RV.net general policy of over complicating the uncomplicated. I would not worry about it.

[WTP-GC]

You worry too much. There is a flow limiting device installed on the propane system. In the event you had a blowout that wrecked the propane piping, you'd only get about enough propane leakage to smell and maybe have a minor flame that simply couldn't stay lit while the vehcile is moving.

Under no circumstances have I read or heard of this actually causing any problems for RVers in blowout situations.

[CincyGus]

Agreed. I would remove the stub, cap it and carry a spare propane tank or put a T in the front before the regulator by the tanks to grill off of.

[MarkTwain]

Tin-bender wrote:
Just bought a new travel trailer and I find that the quick disconnect for the outdoor BBQ is stubbed out in the back of the wheel well subject to possible extreme damage in the case of a blow out.

I know some would say to travel with the tanks shut off and there would be no problem, but that is not what I do.... I think that the best solution is to remove it and cap it off.

Just seems like a strange thing for a manufacture to do based on the history of trailer tires.

Any thoughts on this situation out there.
Tinbender

Cap it off permanently and use a separate 5 gal. propane tank. Blow outs / defective tires are going to happen to every RVer sooner or later. 2 of my tire blow outs did about $1200 damage each time:(