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Stationary camper roof repair advice...

ddndoug
Explorer
Explorer
A little bit of information before asking my question...

I purchased an older 30' pull behind camper to be used as a "hunting/weekend cabin". The camper will eventually (hopefully in the next 1-2 yrs) have a permanent cover/carport with either asphalt shingle or tin roofing. There doesn't seem to be enough time in the day to do what I want/need to do this year. lol

I bought it fully aware that it had a water leak. I have no problem with the skills to repair the leak, but would like to hear opinions of roofing materials. My thought was to simply seal the area leaking knowign that a more permanent roof will be on it's way soon. Thoughts/opinions and what do you base your thought/opinion on????

The camper is partially gutted now and will be stripped down and reconfigured to a more user friendly floorplan based on our needs.

Doug
2009 Four Winds Hurricane 33T
F53 Ford Chassis w/Triton V-10
9 REPLIES 9

Super_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
For peace of mind, I would patch the leak and then spend a couple hundred on a rolled on seal for the entire roof.
Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 21' North River Seahawk

ItsyRV
Explorer
Explorer
Can't offer any suggestions as you didn't explain the type of roof you have now. My suggestion for one type of roofing material may not apply if you have a different type of roof material. How I would fix a membrane roof isn't the same as if it's metal or fiberglass.
1994 Itasca SunDancer 21RB - Chevy G-30 chassis.

Tvov
Explorer II
Explorer II
If the camper is definitely going to be under a permanent roof / shed, why not just throw a tarp over it for now?
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
72cougarxr7 wrote:
A lot depends on the damage, if its a large area, repair is different than smaller sections.
I will assume it is a rubber roof.
If it is a small area, eternabond tape can make a nice repair that will last a while.
If the repair is larger, as long as the decking plywood is solid, you could get some rubber roof material, cut out a patch, glue down with rubber cement, and finish the edges with eternabond.
Make sure you caulk all your vents and protrusions.


Honestly, I tried patching worn out roofing, doesn't work.

Fix one spot then another spot, then another spot, then another spot..

You become a slave to that old worn out roof.

Tried slathering on coatings in a bucket, yeah, that didn't work, first cold snap and that coating shrunk at a different rate from the roofing material..

Tried bed liner, yeah, that didn't work, bedliner simply was not able to cope with the expansion and contraction of the roof material and eventually failed.

Lather, rinse and repeat as they say.

Wanted to replace the worn out roof with something a bit more permanent, ROLLED ALUMINUM but was not able to convince any RV shop to order it for me (I have no easy way to handle large truck freight items when delivered) but do have a flatbed utility trailer..

Had ONE dealer out of thirty that I called that made the suggestion of the Seal and Peel product.. That is what that dealer uses and they recommended it.

It isn't going to last like a real one piece heavy duty roll of aluminum but it seems to be well made and made of the same material that the Grace Water and Ice shield (Water and Ice shield is used under house shingles to prevent water and ice dams from getting through to the wood under it) is made of with the exception of the heavy aluminum foil bonded to it.

Note, do not use Grace Water and Ice shield as exposed roofing, it is not rated for full time UV exposure and WILL degrade unless covered with protective roofing..

I did see that you can now get white, if that trips your trigger, but personally I suspect the aluminum faced will be better life in the long run..

This stuff IS highly sticky, especially when applying in summer heat, don't dare let it touch it's self, it permanently and instantly bonds to its' self.

Do note, I did not apply to vinyl, EPDM/TPO roofing, my roof was fiberglass but I suspect it would be fine on those surfaces also as long as the roof has been well cleaned..

Follow the manufacturers instructions for best results.

72cougarxr7
Explorer
Explorer
A lot depends on the damage, if its a large area, repair is different than smaller sections.
I will assume it is a rubber roof.
If it is a small area, eternabond tape can make a nice repair that will last a while.
If the repair is larger, as long as the decking plywood is solid, you could get some rubber roof material, cut out a patch, glue down with rubber cement, and finish the edges with eternabond.
Make sure you caulk all your vents and protrusions.

ddndoug
Explorer
Explorer
Gdetrailer - I had never heard of that. Thanks, I'll certainly check it out.

Doug
2009 Four Winds Hurricane 33T
F53 Ford Chassis w/Triton V-10

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
thats some great stuff easy on and will last years. thanks for the info.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Instead of gooping on a bunch of liquid "fixes in a bucket" consider this..



It is called "PEEL AND SEAL" rubberized roofing membrane with aluminum finish.

You can roll this out and overlap it like rolled roofing except no nails and it STICKS to everything!

Comes in 36" wide by 33.5ft rolls and it took 3 rolls to cover our 26Ft TT.

Can find it HERE for $121 per roll..

You will need to remove everything from the roof like A/C, vents and such then start on the roof edges and roll across the length of the trailer. Do both outside edges first then third run at the center of the roof which will overlap the roofing on the outside edges.

Total time for us was three hrs including vent removal and reinstall.

If you decide to try it, make sure you have good sun glasses and lots of sunscreen, the reflection of the sun is amazing..

Product comes with a 10 yr warranty so you will not need to be any hurry to build a permanent roof..

We still travel and so far this product has stopped every single leak we battled for yrs.. Going on 4 yrs so far and looks great.

PNW_Steve
Explorer
Explorer
Sealing the leak is half of the battle. You need to give the water someplace to go. If it pools on the roof it will find its way in ๐Ÿ™‚

I use Henry's roof sealant every couple of years to recoat the potential problem areas on my roof. Seams and roof penetrations. It has served me well.

The best solution is building a cover over it. IMHO: Moisture is the biggest killer of "sticks and staples" RV's.

I didn't see where you are located. If it is a damp climate I would also recommend a dehumidifier.

I lived in a 5th wheel for 2+ years on the bank of a creek, in the woods NE of Seattle. Wettest place I have ever lived.... I learned a lot about RV's and moisture ๐Ÿ™‚
2004.5 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, NV5400, 5" turbo back stainless exhaust, Edger programmer & 22.5 Alcoa's
2002 Forest River 36 5th Wheel (staying home)
1992 Jayco 29 5th Wheel (Mexico veteran & headed back)
2002 "faux" Wanderlodge 40' My new toy....