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Too many keys ???

dalejiw25
Explorer
Explorer
I have recently acquired a new Viking TT. With it came a set of four keys, one for the door, one for the pop-out, one for the outdoor storage and one for who knows what ?? My question is, Why can't they just key everything the same and use just one key ??
There probably is no acceptable answer (to me anyway) for this but I feel the need to release some steam anyhow. Thanks for listening and have a great day.
Dale
11 REPLIES 11

OldRadios
Explorer
Explorer
I have five keys

Ford cab door/ignition key
RV door key (not original - RV master key does not open it)
RV door deadbolt key
Storage compartment key (all keyed the same and not original)
Gas cap key

I also bought a Masterlock lock box and keep a spare cab key in it. It's attached through a hole on one of the steel brackets on the propane tank.
2006 Fleetwood 26Q
2010 Harley Softail Toad
2015 Ford Focus Toad
Upstate (the other) New York

JEBar
Explorer
Explorer
dalejiw25 wrote:
My question is, Why can't they just key everything the same and use just one key ??

Dale



the reason is simple, its cheaper/quicker to have grab components off of a stack and install them .... to match locks would take more time, organization, and expense .... when a manufacture cuts install expenses, their profit line goes up

Jim
'07 Freightliner Sportchassis
'06 SunnyBrook 34BWKS

ICamel
Explorer
Explorer
Check out rvlocksandmoredotcom.
If you have a main door lock/deadbolt made by Global Link you can order cam locks for all the other keyed doors which will be the same as your main door lock.
Alternatively, you can order the Global Link main door latch mechanism along with the keyed alike cams for the other doors. I did this recently and now all the door locks in my 5r are keyed the same.
ICamel

2017 Arctic Fox 992
2005 Ford F350 Lariat SuperDuty CrewCab 4x4 + 6 Speed Manual + 19.5" Tires + LoadLifter 5000 Rear Air Bags
2005 16' River Wild Drift Boat
Honda EU2000i
Trophytrout FlyFisherman

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
One of the better padlock systems I've seen were old American padlocks. You could easily rekey them (pop a screw out under the shackle, drop the cylinder and cover in your hand, repin, put it back together, done.) You could go with six pin keys which were more secure than the usual five pin, or even restricted keyways so Joe Blow's American lock key wouldn't work in your padlock.

American was bought up by Master a few years ago, but they seem to still be making decent models.

uintafly
Explorer
Explorer
Yup, I thought the same thing earlier this year. One for the regular door, one for the dead bolt, one for outside storage, one for outdoor shower, one for regular lock the back access and another for the dead bolt on the back access. Funny thing is other than the shower lock, I don't lock up any of them unless we are driving. I'm just not worried about someone breaking into my trailer.
2013 Toyota Tundra Crewmax
2014 Shadow Cruiser 260BHS

Roman_Duck
Explorer
Explorer
When we got ours, we inherited 7 keys for the coach; fuel door lock, coach door lock, 3 different ones for basements and a chassis key for generator and rear engine compartment hatch access and a ignition key
"You never fail until you stop trying!!"
My advice is free but I do consider donations

Fizz
Explorer
Explorer
Years ago I was given eight padlocks with one key that fits all.
What a score that was, everything locked up, one key.

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
What I did to reduce the number of keys to keep track of was to use Strattec BOLT locks for the hitch pin and padlocks. They key permanently to your vehicle, so just keep them with the truck. That way, the hitch receiver pin, the padlock for the hitch latch, and the padlocks for the BAL X-chocks are all on the same key.

For the compartment doors, I went with a generic "automotive grade" FJM key. Better than the CH751 since it is less likely to break off in the lock. That gets me down to two keys just for the RV... the door key and the compartment key.

Peg_Leg
Explorer
Explorer
I'm lucky, one for the door and another for every compartment. The compartment key even matched the one for my topper that I use when not pulling the 5er.

This winter my neighbor in FL said he had lost the key for his compartment door. I checked and my key worked. Next trip to town I had a key made for him.
2012 Chevy 3500HD Dually 4X4
Crew Cab long bed 6.0 gasser 4.10
2019 Open Range OF337RLS
Yamaha EF3000iSE
retired gadgetman

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
You should try my Class A... (Basement, Slides (Master lock) Water graveity fill access (Also fits a door I added) Door snap lock, door deadbolt, Ignition, hood/dog house. I think there is at least one more but just now forget what.

Different makers, different models, different keys,, Major pain in the ring.

Every time I hand the ring to a mechanic he warns me of too much weight on the ignition key.... He usually retracts the warning after he gets in the RV to drive it in and finds out there is a key, all by itself, no ring, no added weight, already in the ignition (I take it out i I won't be in the motor home and store it) The one on the ring is simply the duplication master.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
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mikebreeze
Explorer
Explorer
It may have to do with different manufacturers making different components for the rig that require different lock sizes and, therefore, different keys. I have 3 keys: A Ford key for the ignition and doors, a smaller key for the entrance door and an even smaller key for my storage compartments.
2006 Four Winds Majestic 23A