Tow bar lubrication

[traveylin]

A caravan pulled into the campground up on the northern part of the alcan and this dude proceeds to start disconnecting his toad towbar using a hammer to release the shaft locks. And using a hammer, hammering away. I explained to him that he might want to lubricate the towbar tubes as the parts were aluminum and subject to galling. Even showed him the ports where he could add some 3/1 oil. Response was its just tight and needs hammering.

go figure

pops

[Bumpyroad]

rjstractor wrote:
Sometimes the disconnect buttons bind, mostly due to stress on the towbar rather than corrosion. My Roadmaster Falcon actually came with a tool to force the buttons down if they bound up. I think I've only had to use it once.

that is why I recommend a tow bar that has levers to release it. not slip rigs or buttons.
bumpy

[moisheh]

If your toad is not straight it applies a tremendous force to the hitch pins. A qt. of oil will not help. If you release your tow arm bars it will help. The newer Blue Ox bars are on a swivel and a little easier to unhook. The problem usually appears when you are entering a drive thru site and the toad is not straight. If you drive beyond where you should park and unhook the toad all will be fine. Or unhook before entering the site. The tow bar pins and related parts are NOT aluminum.

Moisheh

[rjstractor]

Sometimes the disconnect buttons bind, mostly due to stress on the towbar rather than corrosion. My Roadmaster Falcon actually came with a tool to force the buttons down if they bound up. I think I've only had to use it once.

[MRUSA]

Following Roadmaster's instructions, I clean and lube my towbar arms with silicon spray before disconnecting, EVERY TIME. This means that each time I collapse the bar, the tubes are slippery and free of dirt. Seems to keep them working well.

[traveylin]

On the blue ox I have, rubber boots cover the shafts and are sealed at both ends. To lubricate, the tie wrap at one end is cut, boot compressed to lubricate shaft, and boot reattached with new tie wrap. Not much probability of dirt contamination.

Just do not use a hammer to adjust.

pops

[down_home]

Roadmaster says use silicone. I tried other lube and it created a mess that trapped dirt really bad and was tough to get off and took a long time. I've had ours bind up and had to turn the wheels of the toad or in gear and let it move a bit. Usually it is the angle of the wheels on the toad. I can't keep the tow bar clean and have to rinse it off good when we unhook and wash it and lube with silicone and let it dry, every time. Roadmaster says to wash it and let dry. Ours is the Sterling and has no raw steel on it to rust. The nylon washers etc are a concern and it probably needs taking apart and new washers and ends etc put on.

[Butch50]

I don't have my rig set up to tow yet (car is on the boat from J A Pan Company). When I get my tow bar I plan on using slip plate on it. I used this on Super Hitch when I had a 5th wheel. This was for a sliding hitch and this is what Super Hitch recommended for it.

Has anybody else used this on their tow bars and if not is there some reason for not using it?

It is a graphite that you can spray on and then you let it dry and the stuff make things really slide. It does not attract dust.

[traveylin]

Dry silicon spray in dusty climates may be a useful lubricant. Lubrication of valve stems in two separate plants in Saudi Arabia and Kuwait required quite a bit of review. Natrually you wanted a lubricant that was compatible with the process, but in general the corrosive atmosphere, high ambient temperature turned all lubricants into hard waxes that did not prevent galling. Wiping and application of lube oil seemed to work. Doing nothing did not. Beating on it with a hammer did not help.

Silicon spray will also leave a residue. I just screwed up a 900$ electrical breaker by trying to lube it with silicon spray. Contact closures got sticky and were not operating. Took a lot of electrical cleaner to free it up.

Best recommendation is to not use a hammer.

pops

[Bumpyroad]

dodge guy wrote:
Wouldn't it be best to just release the latch on the ball and pop the tow bar off the ball if that is the design a person has?

I am assuming it is a non-ball bar that stays on the rear of the motor home. don't know what on the old a frame ones would need lubrication.
bumpy

[mikim]

I use anti-seize lubricant annually on the tow bar shafts. The manual recommends to clean excess oil from the shafts.

[dodge_guy]

Wouldn't it be best to just release the latch on the ball and pop the tow bar off the ball if that is the design a person has?

[Bumpyroad]

exactly what was he hammering on? I occasionally had to use a hammer/punch pin to get my pins out of the brackets. if it had slip rings I can see having to hammer those which is why I went to levers to release it. I have had to give the levers a good kick now and then. but nothing relating to oiling/lubricating/areas etc.
bumpy

[LadyRVer]

Maintenance is a major part of a tow bar. Of course, the "right" lubrication is also important.

Maybe someone needs to suggest: Chock the tires on toad, or put in gear (if auto) or pull emerg brake if manual AND release tension on tow bar before trying to unhook? Sometimes just turning the steering wheel a little to the right or left will help. I find that having the toad lined up straight behind the motorhome and on most level surface helps a LOT.

Gee, ask me how I know all this? Some kind camper helped me out.

[paulcardoza]

mowermech wrote:
I would never use oil of any kind on parts that live in a climate of dust and grit. Oil gets sticky and collects dirt.
I use a dry silicone spray (as recommended by the manufacturer) on my Roadmaster stainless steel towbar. When (not if) it sticks, I just use it exactly the way I used my old fixed arm towbar. Once it is disconnected, it releases and folds just the way it is designed to do.
No hammer, no problem.

EXACTLY...... Oils will do more harm than good.