Trailer sway

[cactusdog]

I recently bought a new 23-ft trailer, my old one was 18-ft. I have only taken it on one trip so far. I have noticed that this trailer has considerably more sway than the old one. I am set up with a WD hitch and a sway bar on the passenger side. I'm looking for some suggestions to control the sway.

• Maybe another sway bar installed on the driver's side?
• Does which link you put your spring bars on affect sway? (It seems like it has less sway on the 2nd link vs the 3rd)
• It also seemed to have less sway when I towed it home from the dealer - they had filled the fresh water tanks - 80 gallons worth.

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!

[blt2ski]

cbgrant74 wrote:
A thought on sway (obviously from a noob to the forum, although not to towing)...

Could it be that the real issue isn't tongue weight, but the center of gravity of the trailer? When the trailer sways, it rotates about its center of gravity. If the center of gravity is near the trailer axle(s) the sway amplifies itself, but if the center of gravity is well forward of the axle(s) the sway cancels itself out. If this theory is right, shifting load forward in the trailer helps a little, but moving the trailer axles further back would help more (probably a manufacturer issue). Then, if the tongue weight is too heavy, use the WD hitch to take load off the rear of the TV.

While moving the axels aft will help fix an issue. I have had a few issues with tilt deck equipment trailers swaying more than other styles with the axels more towards the back.... Boat trailers, and semi-trailers have axels well to the aft vs RV trailers, all can still get uncontrolled side to side fishtail sway.

Causes of this can be many things. From too much wt difference side to side. V'd axels. Too little hitch wt. Naming a few issues.

Still not sure why in the OP's case why the longer trailer is felt more. Unless it is just the amount of side panel that is able to feel the vehicle going by. so it is felt. Side rocking or feeling of a vehicle going by is common. But the literal fish tail sway needs to be avoided, figured out why etc. Then add bars to help things to be kept at bay. Towing a trailer with a Hensley or equal, that has a tendincy to fishtail, is an accident waiting to happen IMHO

Marty

[BarneyS]

cbgrant74 wrote:
A thought on sway (obviously from a noob to the forum, although not to towing)...

Could it be that the real issue isn't tongue weight, but the center of gravity of the trailer? When the trailer sways, it rotates about its center of gravity. If the center of gravity is near the trailer axle(s) the sway amplifies itself, but if the center of gravity is well forward of the axle(s) the sway cancels itself out. Snip...

You are describing tongue weight! 🙂 Tongue weight depends on where the CG of the trailer is - no matter if it is loading, axle placement, or length of the tongue.
Barney

[cbgrant74]

A thought on sway (obviously from a noob to the forum, although not to towing)...

Could it be that the real issue isn't tongue weight, but the center of gravity of the trailer? When the trailer sways, it rotates about its center of gravity. If the center of gravity is near the trailer axle(s) the sway amplifies itself, but if the center of gravity is well forward of the axle(s) the sway cancels itself out. If this theory is right, shifting load forward in the trailer helps a little, but moving the trailer axles further back would help more (probably a manufacturer issue). Then, if the tongue weight is too heavy, use the WD hitch to take load off the rear of the TV.

[Road_Ruler]

aftermath wrote:


Don't EVER listen to those who say you need a huge truck with a diesel engine to tow your trailer.

and that is the truth! At a glance of the OP's trailer it is poorly designed. Very boxy, smallish rims and tires, and the whole trailer is sitting high.

Even set up right I don't think it is going to be a comfy tow. Thinking you need to consider a Hensley or Pro Pride high end hitch to get it right.

PS.... we tow a 23' with a mid sized car. Never had a sway issue. Using a Reese dual cam.

[campigloo]

I think I read it right when you said what bothers you is the blow by from traffic. Some have said the only way to go is built in sway control. The add on may not be sexy, but if you try them they will probably work tor you. Mine is 36' tongue to bumper and does just fine with the tacky friction sway controls.

[rhagfo]

dspencer wrote:

aftermath wrote:
I will add my 2 cents worth. Get a GOOD WD hitch with built in sway control and follow the manufacturers directions to set it up. Your truck will tow your trailer just fine once you get it dialed in.

Every truck/trailer combination is different. Some have a tendency to be tongue heavy while others are tongue light. Generally speaking, the more weight on the tongue is better. Combine that with a good WD hitch and you should be good to go. I am a believer in the Equalizer brand hitch. I have towed two completely different trailers with an Equalizer and once set up according to factory setting I have never had any issues.

Don't EVER listen to those who say you need a huge truck with a diesel engine to tow your trailer. You are on the right track. You are asking for advice and are willing to make things right. Start with the factory suggestions according to you hitch. I this doesn't work, get a better hitch and follow the factory directions there. I really don't think you are that far from a good solution. I have never been a fan of add on anti sway bars.

X 2 aftermath is right on in his reply. You are doing the right thing. Especially don't listen to the naysayer crowd about needing the big trucks.

X3!!

Sure don't need a bigger TV, as Aftermath stated, one of the biggest causes of sway is tooooo light of hitch weight percentage, and the attitude of the trailer (nose up will cause sway)

[dspencer]

aftermath wrote:
I will add my 2 cents worth. Get a GOOD WD hitch with built in sway control and follow the manufacturers directions to set it up. Your truck will tow your trailer just fine once you get it dialed in.

Every truck/trailer combination is different. Some have a tendency to be tongue heavy while others are tongue light. Generally speaking, the more weight on the tongue is better. Combine that with a good WD hitch and you should be good to go. I am a believer in the Equalizer brand hitch. I have towed two completely different trailers with an Equalizer and once set up according to factory setting I have never had any issues.

Don't EVER listen to those who say you need a huge truck with a diesel engine to tow your trailer. You are on the right track. You are asking for advice and are willing to make things right. Start with the factory suggestions according to you hitch. I this doesn't work, get a better hitch and follow the factory directions there. I really don't think you are that far from a good solution. I have never been a fan of add on anti sway bars.

X 2 aftermath is right on in his reply. You are doing the right thing. Especially don't listen to the naysayer crowd about needing the big trucks.

[aftermath]

I will add my 2 cents worth. Get a GOOD WD hitch with built in sway control and follow the manufacturers directions to set it up. Your truck will tow your trailer just fine once you get it dialed in.

Every truck/trailer combination is different. Some have a tendency to be tongue heavy while others are tongue light. Generally speaking, the more weight on the tongue is better. Combine that with a good WD hitch and you should be good to go. I am a believer in the Equalizer brand hitch. I have towed two completely different trailers with an Equalizer and once set up according to factory setting I have never had any issues.

Don't EVER listen to those who say you need a huge truck with a diesel engine to tow your trailer. You are on the right track. You are asking for advice and are willing to make things right. Start with the factory suggestions according to you hitch. I this doesn't work, get a better hitch and follow the factory directions there. I really don't think you are that far from a good solution. I have never been a fan of add on anti sway bars.

[Wishin]

On your two passes at the CAT scale, did you have your weight distribution hooked up when the trailer was connected on the 1st pass? If you did, then you did not get an accurate tongue weight measurement. The weight distribution hitch will transfer some weight back to the trailer axles in addition to the tow vehicles front axles.

If you can get your tongue weight up closer to 13-15% and it tows nice and steady with no traffic or wind but is just getting blown around you probably need a better hitch with integrated sway control or at least a 2nd friction bar. Better tires (LT) help as well.

[cactusdog]

Need-A-Vacation wrote:
Cactusdog,

You need to weigh a total of 3 times to get all the weights. Not sure if you did from the numbers you posted.

1- Truck and trailer ready to roll down the road w/ the wd bars " latched up".
2- Truck and trailer, but with the wd bars "unlatched".
3- Truck only, leave the hitch in and wd bars in the bed.
Try to weigh at a CAT Scale as it has 3 scales that your trucks front/rear wheels and trailer wheels sit on seperately as long as you stop in the correct spot. Take a broom handle or somthing similar unless you happen to be 7' tall to reach the call button!

Then post back in a new thread with your numbers.

I took two passes at the CAT scale. Both times all 4 wheels of the truck were on the 1st scale, while all 4 wheels of the trailer were on the 2nd scale. For the 2nd pass, I unhitched everything and the tongue jack was planted on the 2nd scale as well.

The weights I got the first time were 6340 and 5400. The second pass was 5700 and 6040. From that I figured my tongue weight was 640. I figure the only thing I'm missing is weights of the individual axles (truck and trailer). Correct?

Thanks also for the info on different hitches - I'll be looking into those.

[mowermech]

"It doesn't sway into ever-widening arcs, but I can definitely feel every car that passes - my old 18-footer was much more stable."

Interesting.

[BarneyS]

cactusdog wrote:
snip...
Thanks again for your help here - there were some very useful suggestions. If there's anything else I should be aware of, please message me (I think the Moderator is going to close this thread now).

As long as the thread remains on topic and does not become personal in comments it will remain open for discussion.
Barney

[wandering1]

Get a tow vehicle that has the suspension system (3/4 or 1 ton, long wheel base) to control the trailer. If you do not have enough tow vehicle then 100 wdh and sway bars will not help.

[Need-A-Vacation]

Cactusdog,

You need to weigh a total of 3 times to get all the weights. Not sure if you did from the numbers you posted.

1- Truck and trailer ready to roll down the road w/ the wd bars " latched up".
2- Truck and trailer, but with the wd bars "unlatched".
3- Truck only, leave the hitch in and wd bars in the bed.
Try to weigh at a CAT Scale as it has 3 scales that your trucks front/rear wheels and trailer wheels sit on seperately as long as you stop in the correct spot. Take a broom handle or somthing similar unless you happen to be 7' tall to reach the call button!

Then post back in a new thread with your numbers.

IF you end up needing a new hitch with higher rated wd bars, I would suggest looking into a hitch system with integrated sway control as a member already mentioned: Equal-I-Zer 4 way system, Reese Dual Cam or SC systems also. The DC (Dual Cam) is a little more work setting up adjustment wise, but a great system. The 4 way and SC systems are a little easier to set up.

There are a couple other newer hitch systems which have a growing following, the Anderson- check to make sure you have the correct coupler, and doesn't like higher tw's (tongue weights) from what I have read. Blue Ox- the "cult" for this hitch seems to be growing pretty quick! Lol I have read some good things here on the forum about it! Couple others as well, so do some (A LOT) of reading, ask questions, and pick your poison based on the info you have read.

The one thing I will agree on that was suggested is getting a set of LT tires, even LR C, will help. With our Silverado '10- 1500, it had what I call a "wiggle" in the rear of the truck when towing our old trailer (about 860lb tw). Stepped up to a set of LT C range tires and the "wiggle" (like when a kid needs to use the restroom and can't sit/stand stil) was gone. Otherwise you should be fine with your current truck as long as you don't fill the bed full when towing the tt.

Regardless of your 10k lb tow rating, the limiting factor is the payload of a 1500/150. There is a yellow sticker in the drivers door jamb which states: Passengers and Cargo not to exceed "XXXX"lbs...." This weight includes the passengers, any cargo AND accesorries you have added after the truck left the factory, your wd hitch system, and the trailers tw.

Good luck and keep us posted!!!