cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

truck/trailer sway

allkidd
Explorer
Explorer
This spring we purchased our first trailer. It is a 28 foot Grey Wolf toy hauler. It weighs about 5000 lbs and we usually carry about another 1000 lbs.

I've towed boats but never anything with a higher profile like a camper trailer. When we puruchased the trailer we also purchased a blue ox sway bar.

When there is wind and I'm towing on the interstate I feel like there is some slight sway. Not terrible but bad enough I have to slow down and keep both hands on the steering wheel. Also, bad enough that my wife won't help with the driving. When a semi passes I definitely feel sway...or like I momentarily lose total control.

Based on conversations with blue ox, and watching their videos, I've made adjustments and it is better but still doesn't seem right.

My tow vehicle is a 2020 Chevrolet half ton with the max tow package...rated to tow 11,300 lbs.

Is there something better, or in addition, to my blue ox sway bar? We plan on taking several long trips and I'm not sure that I feel comfortable the way it currently tows.

Any help is appreciated!
56 REPLIES 56

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
You have returned the TV's front axle weight almost to normal without anything hooked up...20 lbs (3,040 vs 3,020) Better than many...

Check your TV's manual on that, as the old rule of thumb of even drop is no more because the OEMs have all changed their suspensions so much

Some say to return to within XXX lbs of unhooked weight

Some say to return the front height to +/- XX inches of unhooked height

I try to NOT ever say 'you are good for it', but the finished setup orientation and reference your manual. What works for me, is not like a one size fits all sock

Have seen folks run in circles dialing in this, changing that, etc because it worked for someone else's TV





allkidd wrote:
Now I believe that I have all the proper weights:

With WDS engaged:
Front axle truck 3040
Drive axle 3080
Trailer 4760

Wthout WDS:
Front truck 2680
Drive 3540
Trailer 4640

Truckonly:
steer Axle 3020
Drive 2160
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your front axle has more weight with the WDS than it does with no trailer attached. That shouldn't happen. You need to reduce the WDS tension some. Yes, I know it isn't a LOT more, but it shouldn't be more, at all.

You reduce tongue weight by shifting where you load stuff in/on the trailer. Move stuff from in front of the trailer axles to behind the trailer axles.

According to those weights, your tongue weight is 1040#, but 15% of the trailer weight is 700#. So, 700# should be the max for tongue weight. After you get the tongue weight where it needs to be, be sure you aren't using WDS to put more weight on the front axle than the truck has with no trailer.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Mike134
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
No, you don’t need to re-weigh anything.
You have about 1000lb tongue weight and a 5700lb trailer.
Just do the math. It’s only addition and subtraction
Looks like about perfect loading for a half ton.
Carry on and don’t make it a rvnet science project.....the geezers here will be having you add the weight of every half rack of beer you pack and deduct if you’ve had a bowel movement since weighing the last time!


This X2!! I run my 1/2ton which has a GVWR of 7050 at 7000 give or take 100lbs or so. Weighted it twice once for weekend and for a week trip always hovers around 7000. Same with the trailer have a sure line tongue weight scale always 15-17% tongue weight. Love how rock steady it tows.
Don't need to measure down to the ounce.
2019 F150 4X4 1903 payload
2018 Adventurer 21RBS 7700 GVWR.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
IMHO, unless your TV's axle can NOT handle that weight, it is okay, as the range I shoot for is 15%-20%. That is the 'why' OEM's list 10% tongue weight trailers, as that keeps the TV's rear GAWR from becoming an issue

Maybe check the pointing of your trailer

It should be level at it's highest pointing and my preference is to point slightly down below level

On tires...the sidewall 'stiffness' and 'strength' is what it is all about when folks recommend going to next higher class tire...first order is whether the tires are rated for the weight carry molded into its sidewall

Lower profile "P" class helps, as there is less sidewall to flex.Going up to the next class tire, "LT", has the sidewalls designed and constructed with higher strength materials...and more of it. Why the exact same tire from the same OEM, same model, same size, etc will have the higher class tire cost more and weigh more

Wider rims (over stock) also helps, as it has less sidewall bend-back. So the sidewalls are 'straighter' and less likely to bend/fold/roll over the rim

Note that these things improves performance...but...reduces 'ride quality'. If 'ride quality' is higher than 'performance' on your 'have to have' list, then decide whether to go this route on tires or not. Trailer pointing should not affect ride quality and improves how the trailer follows the TV

Finally, if the Blue Ox (my choice and recommendation for most applications) doesn't 'center' the trailer fast enough for your tasts, consider adding a friction bar kit
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

allkidd
Explorer
Explorer
According to a calculator I found online, my tongue weight is 18%. I think everybody agrees this is too high.

How do I bring this down?

As suggested, I increased my truck tire pressure to 50. For the short highway drive to the weight station, it seemed to help some but don't think it is the total solution.

Several have mentioned the equalizer as the best system. I might be interested in switching. My Blue Ox uses chains for connection and it is very difficult to get it as tight as the manufacturer recommends. I have to raise the hitch way high to get it latched on and off. Even at that it requires a lot of strength of which I'm not sure I will have enough of everyday.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
It looks like you are transferring the weight properly. I still say you need to drop approx 300lbs off the tongue.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

allkidd
Explorer
Explorer
Now I believe that I have all the proper weights:

With WDS engaged:
Front axle truck 3040
Drive axle 3080
Trailer 4760

Wthout WDS:
Front truck 2680
Drive 3540
Trailer 4640

Truckonly:
steer Axle 3020
Drive 2160

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
FIRST thing to do is dump the soft stock tires and buy quality "E" rated tires for the truck.
This made a BIG difference for me when towing a TT. I will add once again, Timbrens helped a lot as well.

You towed to the scale and back. Did you increase tire pressure to max on all 8 tires? If so, did that make a difference?
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
So it's all in his imagination then?

Yes, the tongue weight is heavy, but it's a toy hauler. The tongue weight is going to be high because everything is up front.

Now, you're never going to ever get rid of the push-pull 100%. A stiffer connection between truck and trailer will help, which means better sway control. Not sure how the Blue Ox works, but it may not be adequate in your situation. I would look into an Equal-i-zer, or a Reese Dual Cam.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Looks like your a quite a bit heavy on the tongue. In my experience too much tongue weight can cause issues. I would shoot for 12% which would be 700lbs!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

blt2ski
Moderator
Moderator
Agree with grit
Total trailer is at 5700, 1000 lbs of hitch wieght. A bit over 15%,I woul like to see less. Should be max about 850-900.
I would also like to see a bit less weight transfer back to front axles. Aroun 2900 us my swag. Since you don't list base axle difference, this is hard to say. My swag is you've transfered too much wieght to FA. Could be wrong.

Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
No, you don’t need to re-weigh anything.
You have about 1000lb tongue weight and a 5700lb trailer.
Just do the math. It’s only addition and subtraction
Looks like about perfect loading for a half ton.
Carry on and don’t make it a rvnet science project.....the geezers here will be having you add the weight of every half rack of beer you pack and deduct if you’ve had a bowel movement since weighing the last time!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

allkidd
Explorer
Explorer
I was afraid of that after I got home and looked online. Tomorrow, I should be able to take my truck back out there.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
allkidd wrote:
Busy day at the truck weight station. Listed below are my weights:

With WDS engaged:
Front axle truck 3040
Drive axle 3080
Trailer 4760

Wthout WDS:
Front truck 2680
Drive 3540
Trailer 4640

Truckonly:
5240

I don't have any idea what these numbers mean!

Thanks for the great help!

We need front axle and rear axle separately on Truck only.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

allkidd
Explorer
Explorer
Busy day at the truck weight station. Listed below are my weights:

With WDS engaged:
Front axle truck 3040
Drive axle 3080
Trailer 4760

Wthout WDS:
Front truck 2680
Drive 3540
Trailer 4640

Truckonly:
5240

I don't have any idea what these numbers mean!

Thanks for the great help!